Fuel Lines for Tank

So I’m getting ready to replace my old rust bucket of a tank, and am looking to buy all the correct fuel lines.
I have part numbers for the return line to the tank, and the breather line from surge to tank, but I can’t find the part # for the supply fuel line on the right, which the hose from the fuel filter connects to.

Anyone?
Thanks.

Greg, Do you suppose that those are just crimp connections onto the rubber hoses in each of those locations? Seems to me (I’m working on the same project myself) that crimps can be carefully cut off and then new fuel hoses installed using clamps instead. I am thinking (hoping) that there are barbs on the metal hoses under the crimps–certainly seems like it would make sense for them to be.

If I’m right and they are just crimps, then maybe you don’t need original parts at all–instead just good quality fuel hose and high pressure clamps? If you need to take the metal fitting off the tank, then get new ferrules/olives for the reinstall (and be sure that the metal hoses aren’t damaged). I think I mentioned it before but I’m attempting to replace my rubber hoses without taking off any compression fittings.

did a bit more digging. Here is an updated photo with the correct part numbers for anything in the trunk with a fitting. SNG has stainless steel versions of 8189 and 6346, although they’ll be backordered from the UK. 4896 looks like NLA.

Interesting–nice find!

I cut the ferrule on each one and put fuel inj. hose, CARB rated, with fuel injection style clamps that don’t dig into the rubber…eliminated the sump tank and put a filter in its place.

I need to unscrew the two lines on tank since I’m replacing the tank, so need new ones. Otherwise, your idea is a good one. I may do that for the one (CBC4896) that goes to the supply line on right side that is NLA.

Yeah, me too, I’m using fuel injection style clamps, NAPA has them in the back.

Eliminated sump tank? I thought that had a purpose. I guess if you always keep the tank over half full, the sump tank is not needed? I may think about that.

I am eliminating the sump tank screen filter as recommended in ‘the book’, and going with the WIX filter between sump tank and fuel pump.

What did you use to cut them off? I don’t want to use anything that could spark in the slightest given how much all of these parts have been subject to gasoline.

I think the sump just make sure the fuel pump has constant flow when the main tank level is low and the car leans (like in a turn). But I’d think you are right that as long as it is always kept half full this would be unlikely to be an issue. Mine is not broken or leaking so I think I am going to leave it in place just for originality sake and a bit of “if ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality.

I’m sure a hack saw would work fine to cut them off.

I have yet to take out my sump tank and inspect it. As long as it’s not rusted out, I’ll probably keep it too. Kirby makes a good point though…the danger of running lean. All it takes is the one time you run low on fuel, and are doing a lot of twisty/turning, you could be running lean without knowing it. I don’t want to have to worry about that.

And it’s so much fun trying to install it under the battery tray :frowning:

That is very true–don’t want to run one of these lean for any amount of time.

And indeed, not sure who thought mixing fuel tanks and battery was a good plan but I am not a big fan! Working to be really extra careful with my new lines that are near the battery in that area of the trunk.

but it’s a great way to test for vapor leaks…just get a screwdriver, and short the battery for a sec. :wink:

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+1 on cutting off the ferrule and replacing with CARB line and good clamp. Cheaper and field-serviceable. I am doing this to every crimped fuel line (not to the push-on connections for injectors.) I used a dremel tool with an abrasive disk, but I had the line out of the car on the work bench.

I used an electricians side cutter pliers…long handled …ones see picture…just very carefully cut the metal then peel back and then probably you will have to cut the hose to peel it off if its been on a long time

remove battery first, if you are worried about something bumping the cable/post etc.

Cutting them off is a pita. Just snip the hose short and heat the ferrule with a propane torch for 20-30 seconds. The stub of hose will literally bloom out of the ferrule.

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This is the best method. And easier than you would imagine.

No OEM jaguar fuel lines on any of my xjs’s are crimped. They are all push on barb/ferrule combo. they can all be DIY renewed using suitable size and rated fuel hose and new ferrules on the original fittings.
Having said all that the pic uploaded in this thread does show crimped hoses at the tank.

Respectfully, I think you’re mistaken. Every XJS I’ve seen has the tank feed and return lines in the boot and the over rear suspension feed and return lines crimped.

I agree that the fuel lines in the engine bay are not crimped.

Regards

Bob

Bob Brackney

The 3 cars l have done have all had same configuration of hoses from boot (trunk) right through to engine bay. No crimps. Hard work but the old hose can be picked out and the original ferrule can in fact be reused although much easier to simply use new ferrules. All mine were as per pic.
Maybe it’s a US car verses ROW thing.
Best regards
hose

Oooh! The connections in my '83 did NOT look like that! First off, the hose was crimped to the fitting. But also, the fitting was a swagelock (sp?) meaning it was a straight steel tube with a brass compression ring that gets crushed as the B-nut is tightened. They do NOT work well when disassembled and reassembled; typically, you need to find a new piece of steel tubing and a new compression ring, although the B-nut can be reused.