Glanced at the calendar last night after preparing to pull the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump …I know I did that job some time ago but when I saw this …wow!
Eight years to the day - that’s enough to make one superstitious!
So I guess you ruled out a bad ground or bad relay?
How many miles did you travel over these past 8 years?
I did rule out both the O2 heater sensor relay and the fuel relay by swapping both for known good relays. Not exactly sure on mileage but guessing about 80,000-100,000kms. Pump was quite noisy and noticeably noisier over the last few days.
Took the tank out today and found that the spare (new) pump didn’t fit the canister. The brass output tube of the new pump was about twice the diameter of the OEM so it wouldn’t fit into the canister lid. I ordered a correct part and it should be here in a few days. Lots of pumps out there said to be suitable but after a good look I’d say be careful when ordering, lots of fitment misinformation.
It is always something, isn’t it? Thanks for the information. Let’s hope the second new pump fits!
It will, the OEM is Walbro and I ordered the Carter P72222 which is basically a re-branded Walbro. Also picked up a fuel filter and a new corrugated intake bellows, mine was getting a little tired.
Pump arrived, not bad NYC to BC RockAuto/Fedex Ground ordered Sunday night, arrived Thursday (today). Putting it in tomorrow…
Pump installed, car running again, now back to those pesky blowers!
Job well done!
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I’m impressed Larry ! It took me a week to change my in tank pump on the Sovereign, the biggest hurdle was separating the fuel lines from the unions on the tank, mine were siezed solid and I struggled lying on my back for days before making a tool from a socket so I could eventually twist them off. When the mileage hit 130,000 on my current car and the pump started to display signs of 'end of life ’ I couldn’t face doing it myself and paid a mechanic £250 to do it. Good luck on sorting those fans out.
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To remove the lines I use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate the clips out of their slots then loop some fairly strong (12 ga.) electrical wire around the lines, near the fitting. Then I give the line a good sharp yank from down below. I make sure the lines are free enough to rotate first though …no rust down there on my tank/car. I do the fat line first btw.
Putting the fuel lines back in, I move the clips to lock position before I start and use whatever I can find to push them home, like a piece of wood. That method works on the fat line, not so much on the other, usually have to push it in by hand.
If you do the job like I do, (without disconnecting the driveshaft) good idea to release the handbrake so the cable is slack back there, gives you a smidgen more space, 'cos there ain’t much wiggle room up above that diff!
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