My electronic SU Fuel Pump has died after 15+ years of use. Recommendations for replacement ? (do NOT want the original points unit; electronic only).
Thanks,
Harold
'65 XKE 4.2L OTS
What has died?
Don’t tell me it’s the electronics!
(The board is replaceable).
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It depends on what you do with your car. If you do some fairly long drives, and want the convenience of being able to easily or cheaply replace the pump in the future if it dies on you away from home, or want ‘originality’. I have a pair of E-types and do some long road trips on occasion. I use a generic ‘Facet’ pump from one of the local auto parts stores. They make a couple pressure variations, so get the low pressure one. They are available off the shelf, and are rather inexpensive, and are very dependable as far as I have experienced.
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Hi,
My V12 had two Facets installed when I bought it, the only real problem was the earth (ground) connection inside the RH rear wing on the wiring loom. I know the 6-cyl cars do not have that issue. I had no problems with the SU pump in my ex S1 4.2 2+2 during 16+ years and 40.000+ miles. I sold the Facets to VW enthusiasts.
I have done a few 800 miles per day drives, no problems with the original fuel pump, also fine at 140mph. 
(I have the condenser to diode conversion in all my SU fuel pumps (four pumps in three cars, a double pump in the V12).
YMMV.
Cheers!
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The nice thing about the original pump, besides being original, is that they are pretty much indestructible and last forever. If anything goes wrong you tap them with a hammer and they usually come back.
The electronic version is just as indestructible and the points don’t wear because there are none.
Do the facets stop ticking when the float valves work? I find that to be a very good safety feature and always wait for the pump to build pressure.
I don’t think there’s any upgrade to the SU pump besides transistorizing it and of course new seals, especially the cork gasket.
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No they don’t. I fully agree both on my ex S1 and my XJ6C and MKV, it’s an additional safety feature, if the pumps don’t stop ticking there is a fuel leak somewhere and I will not start!
On the V12’s there is fuel recirculation so the pump just keeps on tickin’.
(It was originally designed to have EFI.)
Cheers!
The AZX1308 units are NLA.
AZX1307EN is the offered replacement, but are in short supply.
Some suppliers are offering a German made replacement.
Whatever you buy you need to consider the the SU only needs 2.8 psi of pressure.
You can get your old one repaired and keep it as a spare.
There’s nothing magic about pumping fuel, there are any number of choices. I run a converted SU, with a Facet pre-mounted as backup. A year or two old, but still reasonably current:
I replaced my points SU with the electronic version when it became available. The pluses are that it ticks just like the points version, it fits back in the mounting in the right rear, and it connects back up to the fuel supply line banjo fittings. It may also be time to put in new fuel lines. Do get new fiber washers
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I’m using the German made Hardi pump on my car. Almost identical to the S.U. and electronic. A couple of friends are using it also in their MGB’s with no issues so far. It even ticks like the S.U. Pretty easy swap!
That was cork? The stuff I just pulled out of my pump looked like cardboard, it just fell apart as I pulled the cover off. If it supposed to be cork that makes me happy, I had a roll of rubberized cork laying around that I cut a new seal out of. I agree about just using the original pump, 53 years old and with just a little care it is still going strong.
The half dome cap that has a bolt through the middle, that is a cork gasket… I would replace it with something ethanol resistant; these can leak and then your boot fills with petrol on hot days, besides the smell (happened with a new SU pump after a few years, I fixed it with a thick paper gasket instead of the cork, good so far).
That’s the one. The material I used is petrol rated, so all good there.
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