I have a question about replacing my series 2 fuel pump which I thought had probably been asked a hundred times but, if so, I can’t find it in the files
My 68 E Type must have set for decades before I bought it. I’m any case, the fuel pump does does work. I partially disassembled it and found pitted contact points and lots of gum/varnish formation.
One option now is to have this very complex device rebuilt at a cost of around $400.
At the other end of the choices is to buy a $20 generic pump. I have one of these on my 1936 Ford and it has worked great for many years.
As my car is never going to be a trailer queen, is there any reason not to save lots with better reliability?
My real question is doesn’t most everyone with pump problems come to the same conclusion, or am I missing something?
Hi Philip,
$400 is way too high.
I think that all the new parts are about $60.
For me, it is about a half hour to rebuild the pump and install the new parts
I am in Canada and would do this for you for free!
Let me propose to you that you buy the parts and we facetime or whatsapp and I walk you through the half hour of rebuild
On my 69 I rebuilt the pump in 2001. I took it out a year ago to check it and found the points very worn (but still working) and rebuilt it again for the parts cost.
Dennis
69 OTS
Not only can you rebuild it for the price of replacement, you can add a diode or TVS, which will extend the life of the points.
If you want to replace it with a new pump, there are a great many options. I recently published a comparison chart:
https://www.coolcatcorp.com/Fuel%20Pumps/Fuel%20Pumps.html
In my own car, I run a rebuilt SU, but have a Facet installed as a hot spare. If the primary pump failed, all I’d have to do is switch hoses and wiring and away we go.
Amen to that. I still have one 49 year old pump working in my XJ6. Do, however, have the luxury of two pumps. Paul.
After about 45 years I had to work on my pump, the diaphragm had gotten stiff, and the spring on the points weak, some new parts and it was ready to go. The points were still in good shape, just replaced them as it was part of the kit. The pump is not as complex as some would have you believe, not sure why anyone would pay $400 to have it done. So I am still using my original pump, YMMV.
Perhaps I should explain my $400 number. Moss catalog quotes $399.99 for a rebuilt pump but with a $200 credit if you send in your old pump. So really a net cost of $200.
Anyway I take all of your advice and will rebuild mine myself if I can find the parts. Thanks all
I make the proviso about getting rebuild parts as my pump is labeled as type AUF 305 and I can’t find a supplier for that. The much more common types for which parts are available are AZX1318 and AZX1307.
Will one of these work for my pump?
I recently fitted Huco 443020 to both my series 3’s. Both originals work, but I’m after reliability.
This pump is meant to be fitted near the tank and is labeled as “high capacity”, 110L/h IIRC.
When my OE SU gave it up, I put in a Solid State SU, no more points, all electronic. It was Plug N Play. If you are thinking of rebuilding an old unit, think about the other interior parts that may have aged as well… ‘anti surge diaphragm’. It also appears Moss sells a rebuild kit for the “round body” fuel pumps. For some things I’m OK doing the rebuild, but perhaps just buying one that is all new might be an option.
SU Solid State Fuel Pump AZX1307 (search term on Ebay)
Then if you are replacing the pump, you may want to replace those fuel lines in the ‘trunk’ as well.
I had the good fortune of sending my pump off to Dave DuBois for rebuild. Unfortunately, it appears that he has passed away but I think his business has been taken over, with Dave’s blessing, by a Tom Ball who can be reached at (330) 666 2642. I have no idea how Tom runs the business but Dave rebuilt my fuel pump in 2016 with the solid state conversion and kept the lovable tic-tic-tic sound for $110 including return shipping and insurance.
Dave was a fine gentleman.
Craig
That’s another good point. A lot of the new pumps run continuously, as opposed to the SU that ticks in response to demand. I find that something like a facet is very distracting with its constant click. I did have a Mallory getrotor pump for awhile, until a gasket failed. It produced a noise not unlike a little jet engine, which was sort of cool.
Check out the pumps made by Hardi. Going this route in the spring. Apparently ticks like the S.U.
I also have a inexpensive Facet in the trunk as a backup. I rigged a toggle switch in my trunk to switch pumps in case of a failure of the primary.
I find that when my pumps (spare in the boot) aren’t working it just needs new points. cheap
I have been using a Facet for many years. Supplier Aircraft Spruce
Pump # 40105
Barb fitting #0700-156
Filter #479735
Glenn
While I appreciate all comments about other types of pumps, my intention now is to rebuild my existing SU pump, which has both electrical and mechanical problems (heavy varnish from sitting a long time)
So I need to buy a kit but can’t find one for mine’s model AUF 305. Where can I find this or, more likely, will one of the more common model kits work ok? Any.ideas?
The original pump as per Mike’s table would have been AUF 301 and your current pump may be a replacement installed by a PO. If it has stamped AUF 305 tag attached to the base it could be original spec for a different British vehicle. Check the Burlen website burlen.co.uk for SU pumps and rebuild kits. EPK 300 is likely what you need, and they will generally respond to technical questions but be patient…
Poking around on the web suggests the rebuild kit is the same for all 300 series pumps (EPK300).