I’ve installed a Carter pump in my very late series 2 OTS, and want to install a cut-off switch under the dash (since these pumps are always running, I figured it would be a good safety feature. I’m also going to install an inertia switch). For the life of me I cannot find where the pump goes through the fuse block. I’ve removed every fuse in sequence , but the thing just keeps running when the ignition is on.
It should be fused through fuse number 6, per Rich Ligget’s diagram but it isn’t. Is it possible it is wired directly to the ignition ( maybe like a Series 3 ) ?
Has anyone come across this issue?
The fuel pump is not wired through a fuse.
Bill, thank you, thankyou! It was driving me crazy!
Do you know if it is connected directly to the ignition switch or does it join up up somewhere else?
The s3 loom connection is in the bundle under the dash at right hand A post.
Given the number of legacy items in the s3 loom, I’d guess the s2 is the same.
Thanks Marek, this makes a lot of sense since my car has many features like the Series 3. ( it is a 2R vin number). I’ll do some exploring tomorrow.
I located the wire to the fuel pump. As Marek said it is located in the harness on the right under the dash (and behind the glove compartment). It is a thickish white wire. Still no sign of a fuse as far as I can see.
Marek, thank you for pointing me in the right direction!
PS I already had my dash top off (as well as the glove box) to replace the choke cable,so this wasn’t difficult.
That’s because there is no fuse.
You may want to think about an ignition bypass relay whilst you are there also. Connect the white wire output tail of the ignition switch to W1, ground W2, jumper the ignition input brown wire to C2 and connect the loom white wire to C1 rather than to the ignition switch white tail - with an added fuse.
I was thinking about the unfused circuits…fuel pump, ignition, alternator. I’m wondering if they are unfused for a reason. Perhaps because they are inductive loads, and might be more prone to popping the fuse.
Hi Marek, thank you for this great idea! I’ve already threaded two wires through the firewall (using the same holes as the (new) choke cable. This morning I was planning to connect these wires to the loom by the right A pillar. The end result will be two wires coming out of the firewall : one will be the power for the pump from the ignition switch and the other will be the connection to the pump – the power for the pump going through my cutoff switch under the dash.
Your idea has given me another idea : I could get the switched power supply from the existing relay already on the firewall ( as you probably know, the late series 2 already has such a relay on the firewall. It provides switched power to the starter solenoid and separately the ignition coil. There already is a spare C terminal on the ignition coil connection. All I would have to do under the dash is connect one wire from my cut-off switch to the white pump wire. The other wire from my cut off switch would connect
to the c terminal on the relay, after going through a fuse and inertia switch. This means I only need one wire coming through the bulkhead next to the choke cable.
How does this sound?
Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
Hi Mike, I think it should be OK. I put the same pump on my Series 1 a few years ago, with a cut out switch under the dash and connected via fuse number 6 (if I recall correctly). It has been working like a charm, including on a long trip to The British Invasion in New Hampshire pre Covid.
It is great to hear from you, and to be back on Jag - Lovers! I had lost a lot of interest in my E-types and
was thinking of selling them. But, for some strange reason, my interest has suddenly rekindled and I’m
working on them again. It is a wonderful thing…
Did you know there’s a Gordon Parks Foundation in Pleasantville? They maintain a public gallery there. I bet they’d love to talk to you about the car.
Mike, did you read my post above about getting the power for my pump from the relay on the firewall?
The relay in question is a Lucas 22RA.
As an electrical engineer, do you think this would be OK?
Is it possible it could interfere with the ignition system since it is on the same terminal as the supply to the coil? I assume the relay could handle the additional 4.5 amps for the Carter pump. Do you think I should use a separate relay to be on the safe side ( I have a spare Lucas 6RA lying around, but fitting this on the firewall wth the inertia switch and fuse link would be tight )?
Any thoughts would be very appreciated!
I’m probably being paranoid, but as a retired actuary I can’t help worrying about the potential mortality of my car’s ignition system. LOL
All the very best regards
Mike Frank wrote:
“Did you know there’s a Gordon Parks Foundation in Pleasantville? They maintain a public gallery there. I bet they’d love to talk to you about the car.”"
Mike that is very interesting. I would be glad to bring the car over there to show them and chat about my meeting with Gordon when I bought his car. First of all, I would have to get the brakes working. There’s no fluid in them --front and rear – this is my next job after fixing my series 2.
Coincidentally, they are mission critical components, whereas lights or the heater/blower or aircon aren’t. The loom is a legacy item based on the 1940s xk120 loom.
The s1 etype has a fuse in the fuel pump circuit.
The fuel pump is supposed to run anytime the key is turned to position 2 or 3 on the ignition switch. All I’m suggesting is that the load does not need to run threough the ignition switch.
A 22RA relay draws substantially more current than a 6RA, so whilst it can be used for a continuous load, as opposed to a momentary application, it would have to be housed somewhere in free cold air, rather than in the engine bay.
Marek wrote: “A 22RA relay draws substantially more current than a 6RA, so whilst it can be used for a continuous load, as opposed to a momentary application, it would have to be housed somewhere in free cold air, rather than in the engine bay.”
Thanks, Marek. I think I will use the 6RA or better yet, a modern relay, just for the fuel pump to split the load and be on the safe side. I can get the “Brown Wire” current for this relay by tapping the “Brown Wire” connection to the 22RA relay on the firewall.
Thanks again for your help. I really appreciate it.
The late S2 switches are harder to find, so maybe the best bet is to add a simple DIN relay. I wouldn’t try to piggyback on the starter relay.
Mike, I fully agree. Why take the risk of running everything through the 22RA relay. I happen to have a suitable DIN relay lying around so will use that and save my 6RA for when it is really needed.
Cheers and thank you for the advice!
All the very best
Hey Ray, Glad to see your renewed interest in your Es, you had me worried when you were talking about selling them.
Hi Denis, what was I singing to you when I saw you last ? “The thrill is gone baby”. Well, it has come back full force. Must be the pleasure of replacing the choke cable on my series 2 ( and losing that little ball bearing) that did it. LOL.
Cheers and all the very best