Fuel tank drain

Am I correct in saying that removing the bolt at the bottom just drains the tank. Is the large cylinder removable by simply screwing it? If so how does this cylinder seal to the tank?
am I best just leaving this whole thing alone? I guess that it has never been off
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Yes that small bolt just dumps the gas, and whatever small amount of debris floats out with it. But lots of sludge will remain, and since that is where the pickup tube and screen lives it’s a good idea to flush it.

You don’t want to try this with 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. Either drive it down or pump it down, then open the drain to get the remainder out. The best tool to use is a T handled socket wrench with a couple pipes on the T for leverage. Apply equal pressure and keep the wrench squarely engaged. Work it in both directions hoping to break it free.

You can try penetrating oil but it’s unlikely to get past the gasket. The threads are internal to the sump tube. The two common failures are rounding off the removal nut, leaving you to have to use a giant pipe wrench and requiring replacement. Occasionally people have had the threaded adapter on the tank break off, in which case the tank needs to be replaced. But if that does happen, the tank needed replacement anyway because it was severely rusted.

If it’s never been off before it will be a bear to get off, but it will likely come off. You will likely find that the screen mesh on the pickup tube has deteriorated, as well as find a mountain of debris.

True- I changed mine- lots of debris- along with changing a fuel filter in trunk n the one in the engine bay. Sump filter crumbled- so you may want to order that before.
Sump filter is like $30.

You are correct, unscrew the drain plug first to drain the gas.
Next step would be to unscrew the cylinder. Clean the 50 years of crud and rust out of the removed cylinder and check the pickup screen for possible replacement. The cylinder( tank sump) seal should be reusable and usually stays on the tank.

Sincerely
Frank

I would suggest not trying to remove cylinder after all these years. I have worked from the top. Remove plate with supply tube/filter and check for crud and clean out from the top. If tank is in bad shape you will see it from the inside of tank. I have been able to remove drain bolt with no problems, and tank shows no sign of corrosion after 51 years. If removing the bolt is a struggle just leave it alone and go the top end route.
Glenn

It’s best to leave it alone unless you’re taking the tank out. There’s lots of room to work on it from the top.

When having gasoline in the atmosphere…use extreme caution as to any ignition sources…which in a garage/shop can be: actuated garage door opener, light switch flicked on or light fixture, hot water heater, garage freezer, power tools, plugging anything in anywhere…anything that can cause a tiny spark…including a smoker neighbor that walks up to see what you are doing. Nick

Good point. Gasoline vapors are heavier than air so the most likely ignition points are those closest to the garage floor.

and forgot to mention static spark from some clothing, and movements on other material, even car seat covers. Static is not to be ignored…snow ski patrol had a sad and hard lesson many years ago when ski parka static set off hand held avalanche dynamite. At gas stations there are warnings about cell phones…
Nick

Stuart;
It was put together, you can take it apart. Drain excess fuel by removing the center bolt, then get a pipe wrench of approbate size and remove the large tube.
There should be a rubber ring used as a gasket. If the thing falls apart you needed to replace the tank anyway.

Regards, Joel…

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Crud is that what one in good shape inside is supposed to look like?

Ideally close, but that one looks new.