Fuel tank is out

90 minutes later, got old fuel tank out. Uh, yep. Think I found my leak. Lol.

Throw it away…if i ever take mine out again i will have an aluminum one made or get a racing type

I already bought a new one from SNG Barratt. Should last 25 years, I will make sure. Unfortunately, a bit of rust is on body under tank. So sanding, rustmort, prime and paint will be my Thanksgiving weekend :frowning:
Also, what’s a good source for that huge mat under tank? Mines quite a mess, figure I can cut out the shape with new material?

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It cant be too thick…try a thin yoga or exercise mat found at kmart walmart etc…the foam side triangles can be made from construction foam insulation board. If you could find a piece of backing paper large decals have(sign shop) you could use it to slide it in…this stuff is strong and slippery…you can shoe horn things in place and then throw it away later

Good idea. And the foam on back (that goes against rear seat) is simply 1/4" closed loop foam I can buy at home Depot.

Its the backing sheet like you peel off of a bumper sticker…but large piece.to shoe horn the whole thing in place then slip paper out…otherwise the mat tends to cling making it difficult to install…or cover mat with talcom powder…nit easy for me ti slide tank in…have a helper

thanks, good ideas. Also, I assume my rear window has been leaking water down there as a common issue, so will need to reseal it so I don’t rust this one out too!

How are you going to go about resealing the rear window? I’m working on the exact projects as you right now ha! Decided today the old tank can’t go back in–just too far gone and not worth the headache I know it will be in a few years…

Not sure about the window, will tackle later after I get fuel tank in, I’ll leave it in garage to avoid rain. Only difficult step I have now that I didn’t expect, there is a bit of rust on body under fuel tank. Will have to sand, treat, prime and paint. Ugh.
Yeah, we’re doing the same things, but you’re a tiny bit ahead of me. I’ll watch and learn.
Also, I bought my new tank from SNG Barratt, $550, not a bad price. It seems to be a decent aftermarket. Time will tell how it holds up.

Like I commented I would consider a new tank and not a Jag one…look on the forum …there have been a lot of different ones used…depends on many things…however I had mine lined by a guy that does a lot of them and I don’t see any leaks…cost me about a 100.

I have a tiny bit of rust there too on the car body. Going to treat it as you say–got touch up paint of the correct color on ebay and using that. Nice weather this weekend which I’m happy for.

The SNG tank, how did you get it shipped? I was looking at that option but noticed that normal shipping wasn’t listed as an offer. Think we have been doing different projects so not sure I’m that much ahead! I’m learning a lot on here too!

I’ve looked at some of the tanks people have crafted…will consider those but like Greg said the SNG Barratt tank is actually quite good value.

I spent some time standing down my old tank hoping to make it work again but I realized there was just no way. Its rusted through or nearly through all over the bottom and was actively leaking on the mat below so it has to go…

Not sure if it was special or a mishap, but shipping was only $5.00. yes, five.

Incredible–did you have to request a shipping quote and all? It won’t let me just select any “regular” shipping to my house.

It was my first buy on the website, so maybe that’s why? Or else I uncovered a mistake on their website, and they now manually add shipping. And that $5 shipping was NE all the way to NW.

FWIW: I had an equally rusted tank on one of my DKWs, but—and go with me on this—parts for those are pretty much unobtanium.

I buzzed it down to bare metal, with a 36-grit wheel, and fiberglassed it up to the midtank seam: sucker was leakproof for the 7 years I drove it.

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I still have the mat from my 94, 4.0.
They didn’t use any adhesive when installed and there is no rust.
It is literally like new and I have no plans for it at this time.
Send me a PM for any questions.

Douglas, regarding rear window, it sounds like a hell of a job to do right. And it sounds like OEM rubber trim at $80 is the right way as opposed to aftermarket $40.

So i think I may take mine in and get it bonded professionally, instead of rubber trim.

Yeah I’ve never worked on window seals so I rather doubt I’d get it right. I want to put the new tank in now but hope doing so isn’t a mistake if the seal remains imperfect. I guess limited water exposure and it won’t be a big concern. Thanks for the info.

I don’t think that’s an option. If the car is designed for rubber seals, you use rubber seals. If you want a bonded window, you need to trade the car in on a car designed for bonded windows.

OK, that post didn’t post. But when I tried to repost it, this @#$%$# system told me it couldn’t be posted because it was too similar to what I had just posted. So now y’all are having to waste your time reading this added paragraph that I had to waste my time typing just so this $%^% system would accept it.

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