List:
As I previously posted, I was unable to install the four setscrews in the two camshaft assemblies; the first setscrew threaded easily into place but I was unable to line up the sprocket to accept the second setscrew in the second camshaft assembly. Obviously, I was unable to install setscrews 3 and 4.
Yesterday, it occurred to me that I should try reversing the order of installation. On my first try, I installed the setscrew on the left, in front of the carburetors. The setscrew in front of the exhaust would not thread.
So I removed the setscrew in front of the carburetors and first threaded the setscrew in front of the exhaust. Then, I was then able to easily installed the one in front of the carburetors. I have no idea why the first order failed while the reverse order worked. The chain between the two camshafts is now very tight, there is no play whatsoever between them. The chains to the left and right of the camshafts have a small amount of play, I can move them slightly left and right on both the exhaust and carburetor sides.
Next I tried using the Churchill tool to turn the camshafts 180 degrees for installation of the third and fourth setscrews. Am I correct that when the tool is in place it should depress the small metal tab (in the shape of a 1/2 circle) to allow me to turn both camshafts for the third and fourth setscrews? With moderate pressure, I was unable to depress the tab.
Can I give it a tap to release it?
Thanks
Lou
No no no! If you are referring to the timing chain tensioner tool, i.e. this, stop.
The D shaped tab is spring loaded and needs some help. Tapping is okay if you are careful, but also try to relieve the tension off the teeth a little with the tool or needle nose pliers. It can only tension the sprocket and does not move the chain!!
All it does is that it acts as the hub for the sprocket; and that hub is eccentric so it can tension the chain. Don’t use a 3ft breaker bar, hand tight is tight enough.
When the camshafts are secured with the bolts the next step is just as in the book, I think you first tension the chain (read that up) and then turn the engine around until you can install the other bolts. Make sure you have no TDC indicators (screw drivers in spark plug holes… eheh) or rags in place before you rotate the engine so nothing binds or disappears. Reinstall the rags. Don’t drop anything, reinstall bolts, check tension using the tool, lock the tensioner in place and don’t forget to reinstall lockwire/-tabs before closing all up.
When you retension the upper timing chain recheck cam timing until you have it about right.
Hope this helps-
David
You might have had the angle a bit wrong or tension, I know that well just as you. Sometimes these things need ‚a new perspective‘ to finally fit.
David:
davidsxj6
David Jauch
March 27
No no no! If you are referring to the timing chain tensioner tool, i.e. this, stop.
First, thanks for taking the time to explain this. And, yes, I am referring to the chain tensioner tool.
The D shaped tab is spring loaded and needs some help.Tapping is okay if you are careful, but also try to relieve the tension off the teeth a little with the tool or needle nose pliers. It can only tension the sprocket and does not move the chain!
I was at the garage today. I attempted to depress the spring loaded tab but it would only move about 1/2 the way to being fully depressed. I did not want to force it. As you mentioned, it is spring loaded and returns to the fully extended location when I let go. How would you use needle nose pliers to move the tab? Now that I know I can get the setscrews in place, I might removed them and then attempt to lessen the tension on the timing chain tensioner and them reinstall the set screws.
All it does is that it acts as the hub for the sprocket; and that hub is eccentric so it can tension the chain. Don’t use a 3ft breaker bar, hand tight is tight enough.
Does it act as a hub for both sprockets? And is the chain it tensions the one between the two sprockets or the ones that run down the side of the sprockets.
When the camshafts are secured with the bolts the next step is just as in the book, I think you first tension the chain (read that up) and then turn the engine around until you can install the other bolts. Make sure you have no TDC indicators (screw drivers in spark plug holes… eheh) or rags in place before you rotate the engine so nothing binds or disappears. Reinstall the rags. Don’t drop anything,
Today I dropped a socket and fortunately it was too big to go anywhere.
reinstall bolts, check tension using the tool, lock the tensioner in place and don’t forget to reinstall lockwire/-tabs before closing all up.
Is there is right or wrong regarding the tension? Or it just tighten until it “feels right?”
When you retention the upper timing chain recheck cam timing until you have it about right.
How do I recheck the cam timing?
Hope this helps-
It sure has!
Lou
Lou, there is an excellent video on YouTube that should show it. I‘ll look it up when I have better internet - I‘m in a cottage in the woods right now. It is titled tappet adjustment on xk engines or so.
Nevermind, I think this should show the details.
Are you sure that the D doesn’t clear the teeth already? If it’s flush with the „gear“ it’s all the way in. You can’t break anything as long as you take care and never turn the engine without the cams synchronized.
Nr. 6 on TDC and both cam lobes pointing outwards.
Glad to help -
David
…you use needle nose pliers to turn the wheel, but the tool works much better. It might just stick a bit! And you take the small steel plate as hopefully in the video. Don’t you have the manual? I can send you the pages Friday night if you don’t have them.
Success!
It turns out that the D shaped stud WAS already depressed and was only stuck from lack of use. The chains are now taught but not overly tight.
I now need to tighten the head bolts and then turn over the two camshaft studs and install the other two setscrews and the wire
Thanks for you help.
Lou