Any reason not to use RTV with the gasket?
Just no reason for the paper gasket: it’s how Dick Maury does it, and me too, since the early 70s.
Thin schmear, lightly–as in by finger tip–tight till set, and zero leaks.
I have never used any type of sealant on the SU inlet gaskets or any of the numerous manifold connections on the 3.8 manifold, so long as the mating surfaces are in good shape. I don’t think those types of gasket material require a sealant.
None necessary or desired with Cometic gaskets. It was recommended to me that I apply some fingerprint sized thin dabs of silicone around the water ports on their composite head gasket though.
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It’s also a good idea to examine the gaskets you get to ensure they fit right so that they don’t stretch or tear when installed. Here’s a timing case gasket I received from one of the usuals where I ended up having to make replacements.
If the gasket has shrunk, as in the photo on the previous post, Try soaking in water for an hour and then see how it fits.
Except for the head and exhaust gaskets…and the water pump where the gasket thickness is part of a v belt alignment set up…no.
Modern sealants are all I used on my V12 rebuild and no leaks.
The gasket should have compliance to fill any small gaps between the sealing surfaces.
The modern sealants also have compliance to fill any small gaps between the sealing surfaces.
If you are not intending on frequent removal of the parts then why not use appropriate sealant??
I can say with certainty that you don’t want to use Hylomar (or Yamabond 3) on the fuel tank pick up flange gasket.
Interestingly…one of my modern cars …which makes use of sealants…recommends the application of a particular removal solvent…also branded with the sealant name…to break the seal…it particularly warns against the use of sharp objects to pry the surfaces apart…so the sealant manufacturers have also addressed the difficulty in disassembly with a suitable product…which was news to me.
I only ever used CopperCoat on the intake manifold gaskets because it made it easier to get it off, at a later date, not to improve seaming.
At something like $30/pair for those gaskets on the Ro er, the use of Copper Coat has saved me money.
As for the carb gaskets? You are correct: No sealer needed.
So other than the sealant types, gaskets, etc…what other places do you place sealant to prevent drips. I saw that someone mentioned the top crankcase bolt. Anywhere else?
A local guy that has helped me out with my defender swears by permatex aviation form a gasket. I guess it does better than the black permatex stuff against vibration, which I guess makes sense bc small planes vibrate like crazy. Land rovers leak like a seive and I have it on almost everything except my transfer case (black permatex). Take a wild guess what leaks? Seems like it doesn’t get really hard and stays gummy. Also, you don’t have to apply, lightly tighten, then tighten all the way after waiting an hour. It’s pretty quick. Thinking of using it on my xke.
Sometimes the better option for an accurate join between complex shapes. Timing cover, water pump and oil filter housing examples. I’m still using a roll of gasket paper I acquired in the early 90s.
Was wondering about using sealant on the original thin steel gasket when I reunite the head and block on my current 3.4 refresh. Happy to be reminded of coppercoat.
Good thread, Harold.
A few years ago I made a bunch of gaskets to use in place of the red hard-as-a-rock rings at the float bowl inlet banjo bolts. They never seem to get tight enough for fear of breaking them.
I have a laser cutter.
They don’t last through more than a few tightenings, but because they are so soft and fluffy they do work quite well.
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Thank you for the outstanding info / reco’s and personal experiences ! To keep my conclusions short, I’m using a combination of materials, based on the pieces they will be sealing.
Appreciate all the help and insight !
- Harold -