Getting rid of coolant crud in the motor

Heater turned on during the full cycle.

I’ve been running the coarse mesh in my Tefbas for 6 months now, I only get the occasional spec of something when I check monthly.

Thinking of putting in the fine mesh now…anybody do this? Does it need checking more often?

(My Tefbas came with two different meshes for each)

What gets through the coarse filter is not going to block the radiator so until I am confident that the motor has been de-crudded I’ll stick with the coarse.
Trev

Greg, I have had the fine screens in mine for three seasons now, checked annually, and almost zero debris. Mind you, brand new rad five or six years ago.

Just a quick note to all. I have been running distilled water and Gano filters for over 10 yrs. It took draining and just water flushing about 3-4 times before the filters were clean and clean for about 9years now.

The advantage really showed up in April 2019 when I had to take the head off. It had been on for over 20yrs. Once I got all the nuts off, a slight rap was all it took to loosen the head and lift it off by hand.

Ever hear of that before! With the head off there was rock hard crud at the back wall on the outside of the last cylinder sleeve that had to be chipped out though. But 4 months now and nothing in the Gano coolant filter.

Ptipon
Modesto/CA, 90 XJS-V12 conv, United States

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Yes…I was thinking about Kirby’s comment about the boiling coolant so how about a fix that works to remove scale build up in an electric kettle…
Normally a slightly acidic mixture recommended to deal with the mineral deposit buildup…yes…you guessed it…vinegar, citric acid or lime juice. My recollection is that dishwasher detergents are more basic than acidic…???

I’m guessing nobody knows what DI water is or deionized water and what it is good for and used for. Next to that is distilled water.

Ptipon
Modesto/CA, 90 XJS-V12 conv, United States

The descaler product I have for kettles, irons etc. (from the same hardware store as the deionised water) is KILROCK - Big K “It’s the one that works” RAPID ACTION GREAT VALUE, it says. Basically its formic acid.

Coffee machine users with aluminium boilers report that vinegar and citric acid eat the aluminium, but I’d say the head will take it. There’s others, Weinsteinsäure and Aminsulfonsäure in German, that reportedly do not attack the aluminium. The other question is, what is the crud made of - what will knock it loose?
Dishwasher cleaner is best with starch and fat; that can’t be the case in a hot coolant situation. Grease would clog the radiator.
Residue from the water is much more likely along with corrosion from the metals so yes, acid is the way to go. Then maybe a flush with detergent, also to neutralize. I wouldn’t overdo it, if you really want it clean… out with the core plugs.

Agree totally - dishwashing and water treatment to manage inorganic deposits are two very different scenarios and two different industries with practically nothing in common.

  1. Depending on market and model, Jag temp gauges are often given dials where the ‘normal’ band STARTS at 90C. The OP’s car has no problem.

  2. Thermostats are warm-up devices with no effect on maximum cooling capacity.

  3. Somebody needs some basic physical/inorganic chemistry reading material if they think “particulate deposits from boiling water” are any source of gunk, let alone the main source. They also need to buy shares in a towing company if they have an engine whose cooling system ever contains boiling water.

I would write more but there’s too much to scroll on a tiny old iPhone. To the OP, your car sounds fine - enjoy. To everyone else, if your radiator is good and your thermostat feet are confirmed by measurement to reach/close the bypass passages, chances are very high you’re OK. If building an engine or want a project, try the Lutz mod.

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Just to clarify… I’m not using the analogue OEM temp gauge.
I’m told by many that the crud in the motor acts as an insulator so that the heat of the metal cannot be transferred to the coolant effectively. By this I would expect that the coolant to be at a lower temp than the metal of the motor. As the analogue temp sensor measures only the coolant temp (A bank), one would be forgiven concluding that the analogue temp gauge under states the actual temperature of the motor.
It is for this reason that I fitted dual digital dash temp displays connected to thermistors on both the heads where the lifting hook bolts to the head.
Both these thermistors were bench tested and adjusted accordingly so I’m confident of the read outs (plus or minus 2 deg). It is these gauges that I’m using to evaluate my considered crud cleaning curiosity.
The downside of these quasi-real-time digital thermometers is that one tends to over analyse while the original temp gauge averages, albeit inaccurately.
Trev
PS please forgive the alliteration but we must have levity somewhere.

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some Aussie guy gave a write up in a Jag magazine of the products and process he uses in flushing a motor.

very detailed and interesting, it involved an acid that is used in Dishwasher Cleaner…not the tablets for the dishes, but the stuff advertised to clean the guts of the dishwasher, a descaling agent, followed by a neutralising agent.

He stated where to buy the particular acid ( I cannot recall the name of the acid, and had never heard of it before…when I attempted to get some by contacting chemical supply companies, they refused point blank to deal with me, so I suspect it may also be useable for either bomb or drug making too

In the past, I have used dishwasher tablets on old cars that are new to me…on the last, I used 10 in a row, over a couple of weeks, at first the water was swamp mud, when it runs clear, I put coolant in

That vehicle is now my DD and does not overheat in 100F temps, even though they have a bad rep for doing so

You worry about clogging the radiator when doing this, but I did not have to change the rad.
they are cheap on that vehicle anyway

Hmmmm, I may try that this summer when I change out my coolant again. I have the Tefba filters, so a dishwasher tablet would fit nicely in each, and catch any junk before getting into the radiator. I guess it can’t hurt? What about the water pump bearings and any seals?

I’ve had no overheating issues, so far, although we rarely get above 85F in the summer here in Seattle.

I bought a bottle of that dishwasher cleaning fluid (well I stole it out of my wife’s supply) with the thought of making it phase 2 of the experiment. Nice to here there is some promise.

On the back of the bottle of dishwasher cleaner it states that it is good for removing lime deposits (calcium) so that’s a plus.

If we don’t try things because somebody’s theory says it’s a waste of time we would get no new ideas happening. I don’t know if this will work or not but at least I’m giving it a go… maybe not a panacea but maybe some help…who knows if we don’t put it to the test.
Trev

Acrylic acid perhaps

sounds similar, but I just dont know, and cant recognise it as being on this list

It was the best article I have seen on the issue and addressed effects on metals such brass, aluminium, even solder

cant see anything particular mentioned as the main ingredient of commercial dishwasher sanitisers.

I thought at the time the way the chemical companies treated me it must be able to be used somehow in the production of meth

Tony, chemistry is not my strong subject but these dudes seem to know some thing about the contents of dishwasher stuff… including Acrylic acid.


Trev

Didn’t come thru…the link was a list of acids…can you repost…?? Interesting subject…

Unfortunately I do not have a link, the article was written and produced in what I believe to be the “Canberra Jaguar Club magazine”, some years ago, ( I bought it home from our local club meeting, but dont know where it is now )

Got to laugh at ‘unfiltered’ info (pun intended). Sodium hypochlorite is listed as of high concern.

That’ll be why it’s used to make foul wafer safe to drink and is the gold standard for disinfecting baby feeding bottles, not just purifying the drinking water. Context context context.

Water treatment is a huge industry and they have far more serious challenges than a bit of descaling or de-rusting

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