Got a Lift... get one

Thank you Pat.
Does the 30lbs assistance improve in i.e. autocross or “spirited driving” ?

A departed friend of ours has a D-Type replica with front springs. Not sure it they were assisted but they were dimensionally hefty .

Mark

I did strengthen the picture frame with an xform running diagonally from the corners, but this was only following what others had done in the day.

Serious racers buy updated torsion bars which are quite expensive and the cost of adjustable coil overs is only marginally more expensive than adjustables so I opted for the coil overs.

My driving skills are insufficient to detect any difference although it could be argued in that case I need all the help I can get!

The E-type coupe is spectacular! Nicely done. I didn’t know that about coil overs and the E-type not being able to support it.
The e-type IRS looks a bit… well shorter. a couple of mods to get the big tires under the wings?

The 1/2 shafts were modified being X300 to utilise outboard brakes from the XKR Performance range. The track was standard S3 E Type. Wings were “blown” some 5 inches each side. Overall the car was 10" wider and about 2 inches longer than a standard S3 E. The length was added to the bonnet to get the clearance on the 20" wheels along with the S1 headlights.

CIMG2551

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Thank you so much for sharing, It’s beautiful!

Nicely done very subtle and doesn’t look out of proportion in the photos.

I concur with many here that once you get to a certain age of ‘wisdom’ and are still playing with cars you NEED a lift. At least that’s what my wife finally agreed to, and I am expecting my Max Jax delivery next week.

I read a bunch, talked with some folks in this community about which type worked on their E-types, and determined that ALL forms of lifts have some pros and cons. While everyone seems positive that the one they have is best, you have to consider your personal requirements.

One of mine was not only being able to use the lift in a normal garage but being able to MOVE it from building to building or within my larger building. I have a smaller enclosed space in my large building that is insulated for heat and I’m planning on installing a second set of anchors in that ‘room’. The Max Jax can be easily moved and it won’t get left behind if I ever move.

The obvious downside is not being able to stand underneath it, but the types of lifts that enable that do not fit my other criteria and I’d far rather sit in a rolling chair - slightly reclined - than even lay on my floor and work on something nearly touching my nose. I must say there are a list of projects around here that now will hopefully get done.

Great photos in this thread BTW!

Dick,

I believe someone on this post mentioned not to lift an E by the front frame. How/where would you lift an E with a two post lift?

Thank you

Marco

Put the front two supports under the body “frame” extensions, just where the reaction plate is.

I put the front lift points on the body right under where the lower firewall meets the floorboards. This is where the subframe bolts to the body. This is a very strong part of the body and easily accessible. If the body has a lot of rust, this section is usually the last to go. Rear go under the trailing arm mounts.

Do you put anything between the arm and the body, Wood strip, rubber pad or anything?

I would use some wood blocks, or thick rubber, for not other reason than to make it a bit nonslip.

Most lift arms already have dense rubber pads on them.

That would be a strong point to lift. Any concerns about the engine weight hanging forward of that point ? If the IRS is removed would it be unbalanced ?

Debating on a lift myself. I had the IRS and engine out (at separate times) so I hope it will not be a regular event but it is an E so…

Thank you.

  1. no.

  2. Always best, when removing one unit or the other, to use safety straps tying the car down to the lift.

Good to know. The two post would favor overall accessibility.

Thank you.

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Were I to get one, a 2-poster would be my choice.

Makes sense, more than ever the two post is sounding better for service .

Thanks Dick.

Any concerns about the engine weight hanging forward of that point ? If the IRS is removed would it be unbalanced ?

no.

Always best, when removing one unit or the other, to use safety straps tying the car down to the lift.

That’s good to know. I’ve always been hesitant to put the forward arms that far back. Certainly easier than reaching the front suspension attachment points.

No problem with the weight of the engine as the point of front contact is forward of the bell housing. We remove rear suspensions all the time that way. If in doubt, you can always use some safety straps. We have had two post lifts along side 4 post lifts. The 4 post lift is good for storing cars as you do not have to set the arms under the car. For working on the car, the 2 post is the way to go. Just ask your professional mechanic or go in the service department of any major dealer of any brand car. You will probably not see a 4 post lift.