Greetings from Australia, and my XJ40 project

Clive - the parts in question are shown on this diagram from the official Jaguar parts site (
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/C01.893.89357.89357287.893572874861/brand/jaguar/ ):

1 Like

Hi everyone it has been a very long time since I have posted anything at all. So hopefully things can start to change, new job and different rosters makes things a bit tricky until I get use to it all. So one thing at a time for now, I changed my steel hoses under the car, my British car is the one I am keeping and it does not have a charcol cannister, where my 2 Australian cars do, so I have changed them around, and fitted the cannister behind the front bumper. I didn’t get a chance to take any pics, however I will get around to it. I have also been making some floor mats for the car because I am looking for something a little bit different, so here is one of the mats I have been working on. Now before anyone falls out of their tree screaming they are not Jaguars. I know! all the leapers I have are painted gold, and finding a pattern for Jaguars is not so easy. I decided it was a nice picture and it fits the gold colour of my other cats, I am going to reverse this image on the next kit so I will have a left and right side. They will ony be in the front for now, and they will be mounted on rubber mats so they wont all scrunch up.


I will also make one of these to go over the spare wheel, just to brighten things up a little more. The next challenge will be finding a colour for the rest of the background on the backboard of the boot and the rest of the floor and whatever else may need covering. The next thing to get started on will be the front bumper.

I have taken the rubber off the front bumper, they do look quite sad, and getting new ones will probably cost more than the car is worth, so I decided to have a go at making up some fibreglass ones instead, and I did away with the reflectors on the sides. It may look a little rough right now, and it is still in the shaping stages for the moment.
front bumper 3-001
It looks a bit shabby right now, but it is coming together, not done fibreglass before, so here we go. A new trick to learn. If all goes well it will be done on the rear bumper as well. I am not sure about the paint to use just yet, I have thought of gloss, or maybe even satin black. or I may paint it with black bed liner for a textured finish. The will be getting the chrome trim pieces put back on as if it were the original rubber ones.


Sadly for me right now, I have not had much luck with making the molds for now, so I now have to use filler to take away any of the imperfections. I am using fibreglass reinforced filler here, then when it is all done, well I am not sure just yet if I need to paint some resin over the top or do I just start priming it all up and get ready for the paint.

Well that is the front bumper for now I will not bore you with every tiny part of this build, it will be shaped and undercoated by the time I take anymore pictures of it. I also need to buy some more green paint to do the front doors and the other front guard, I know the grass is a bit long, hopefully I will get that done too.

2 Likes

I know I had made fibreglass ends for my skirts, and whilst that was what I used it was not the same as making a mold then making a part from the mold, obviousely my mold making skills are just plain woefull, I never seem to get them to release from the molds, no matter what I use. Anyway time will tell if it will work or not.

The secret is spraying on PVA.

Hi Clive, I dont know how old this thread is, or if you have solved for the issues you raised…

However, I put a US sourced Mustang Sequential EFI system in a 1974 Jensen Healey.

I overcame the issue of ADR compliance by using by migrating the entire EFI system onto an early 1970’s 302 Windsor block. It all fits. Just have to change the drive gear on the distributor to match the cam and wire it so the firing order matches the cam. In that way, I used 1974 emissions as per the Jensen, even though the EFI was 1992. I also used the Ford ECU etc. but there is no real need to since the only real complications are canister purge logic and whether to use O2 sensors. Just wiring up Jaguar type sensors, using batch fire and sorting out MAP or hotwire MAF could be done since the engine wont care all that much… I think?? cheers

Hi everyone, sorry I have been away for so long, my job and the weather are not allowing me to do as much to the car as I would like. I live in Rockhampton. Queensland and we are now into our wet season, so a very breif update at least. I have managed to buy a 1992 Ford LTD with a 5.0 V8 and a 4 speed transmission, sorry but for now, no progress pictures,


The car does look quite nice in the photo, however she is completely rusted, so I am keeping the good bits and the rest will go to metal recyclers.
I have sent my covers and transmission mounts to get powder coated, but that will not happen now until next year. The great news is the engine is in really good condition and the transmission has only just been rebuilt, so a huge bonus for me at least, because I got the whole car, I also got all the electronics as well, just need to sort out what I need and somehow graft that into the 40’s harness. the next issue I have is the oil pan, the dummy I used did not have one so I never allowed for it, I will find a way to deal with that one, I have a few ideas, I have managed to find a set of brand new wheels for the old girl.

I have chosen to go to an 18 inch wheel and the tyre O.D. sizes I have chosen should only differ by a couple mm. That will keep the speedo pretty close to what it should be. We will only be getting public holidays off as we have a mountain of work come into the workshop, so full steam ahead. I will certainly try to get more frequent than I have been.

1 Like

Just on a slightly different note, I have all the running gear from a ford and I am trying to maintain the belt setup they have used and also maintain the emmission controls as well so I doctored the stickers very slightly and they will also be made next January year.

All I did was change the Ford logo with the Jaguar logo on both so the information on both will still be accurate.

1 Like

Well one thing that I have been quietly soldiering on woth is a simple rug kit to give me an idea of creating something different, it is a very slow process for me, but I am considering the continuance of the plan for either the front floor mats or maybe even make it a part of the carpet as well. It is by no means finished but I confess it has really grown on me. This is my spare wheel cover, it turned out quite a bit better than I originally thought it would.

2 Likes

Nice, when my first wife and I had just got married we did a few hook loop rugs.

Hello everyone it has been a while, and all has not been so well, but no need to go there and not a lot has happened, anyway I di have to modify my front subframe, then get it certified and ready for modification plate, all needed to put the old girl back on the road. I also decided to powder coat all the suspension parts as well as the subframe, then re assemble it all ready to put into the car.


Here we have the front view of the subframe with the engine mount pedestals fitted.

this is a rear shot, I think the powder coating looks good, I hope it is as sturdy as I am told and should last for the time I have the car anyway. The next pic is the lower part of the suspension, for the most part it will almost be done in either green or gold. I am in the green stages of the build right now.

1 Like

Powder coating, done properly, is incredibly durable stuff. I used to use it on race car suspension components that were subject to a lot of stone damage and it might dink them up, but it never broke through to the metal.

These are the lower sections of the suspension, I have to get the bushings and ball joints next, then press what needs to be pressed in and then assemble it all.


Here we see a completed engine mount that is used in this conversion, I took a liking to it quite some time ago.


This one is the left side, they have both used the existing engine mount pedestal, simply re arranged the mount itself. I liked them because the held the engine in place regardless of the position of the car, and not as likely to fail because the rubbers had perished. The bolt or the metal would need to break before the mount had a total failure. That was my chain of thought at the time.

The right side was slightly different, however was still basically the same thing. the position of the engine and other components made this a thing to create differences. This one is the right side. Here I needed to get clearance above the mount, which is why it was made slightly different. This is the view from the front.
Right engine mount (front)

This is the right side again, but from the rear, just to give you an idea of how it was constructed.


Using these mounts I was able to leave all the steering rack and other components where they were.

Rather than bore you all with little add on’s to this part, I simply left it until it was ready to put into the car.

Here is the finished product with all the mew bushings pressed in and ready to be bolted into the car. I only had today to get this done so it will have to wait until I get a weekend of fine weather to remove the old frame and install this one.

1 Like

All the front end was taken apart to make sure it would all be renewed and was ready to take on the next 30 years or so, although I may not be around, maybe the persons I leave it to will look after it in the years to come. I will also point out that I intend to use this as my daily driver, so it will never be a show pony, and it is being built to satisfy me.


These are some of the parts that will need further assembly and a couple of bushings pressed in, and a ball joint or 2 will also be put where they need to go. I have not done the front hub assembly yet as I need to make sure the new brakes will fit before I commit to that assembly, it should all bolt in according to what I have read so far.

The same thing has been done with the upper arms as well, and just as before you do not need to see all the little bits being fitted unless you request them, so here are the upper arms all powder coated as well. I will be coating all the front and rear suspension parts as I move my way through it all until it is done.


I don’t have the bushings for these just yet so you have to wait and see how this all goes together.

If I had my time again, I would save a lot of time by having such things as suspension parts blasted and powder coated

It lasts better than any alternative, and as time is money, any other coating is false economy

1 Like

Hi everyone, yesterday I thought I could have the old K frame out and the new one in before the sun went down. Wellllllll, that didn’t happen, It took me almost 2 days to get it all fitted and the engine down to its correct height in the engine bay.

I like the colour it has been painted in, and yes I call powder coating paint. because this took a lot longer than expected, this was really as far as I got with it all for now.

2 Likes

I am quite sure we all know about the invasion of the newer style poly bushings, they have some good reviews and equally some bad ones. I have decided to give them a bit of a go and see if they really are an improvement, however the shock bushings have remained the same press in jobs of the past.


Yup! all powder coated, but I always intended it to be that way, besides I have to use that press I bought at least once.
control arm bush.-001
I did need to make sure it was pressed in to give an equal amount of metal on both sides. I did however loose the complete set of rear bushings, I am not too happy about the idea but I still need to get these things in, so I have ordered another set.