Grounds connection for front headlight assy

(Jochen Glöckner) #21

Thanks Paul, again,

indeed, it is much like being more confused, but on a higher level …

Now I know the type of earth connector to learn they are wrong anyhow - at least most likely they are.

Yes, I’d appreciate if we collect some data points to find out what these connectors looked like originally, no matter whether SIII, II or I. So, yes, I’d be more than happy if you could take some pics of your cars. Maybe others can check out on their SII cars.

For the moment the only thing I’m pretty sure from the SII wiring diagram is that all grounds for outer and inner headlights as well as fog lights have an earth connection via cable.I just can’t get over Jaguar omitting every bit of information on the hardware side of the harness mountings in the official documents. It feels a bit like the criminal investigator digging into old files and finding that every bit relating to a particular person is missing …

Thanks again


75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

(David Jauch) #22

I still think they are these.
I‘d use them without worrying about the water. If I was, option a. Is to use a longer wire and b. To connect it otherwise - my S3 has a bodged spade connection and the chassis connector is via Dougs description. Sorry, by the way, Doug, you even wrote paint - was I thinking?
I wonder if gold plating the connectors would help.

(Paul M. Novak) #23

Here are four pictures of the inner headlamp grounds in my Antelope 1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas (left), my Jaguar Racing Green 1990 V12 Vanden Plas (left and right), and my 1987 XJ6 parts car (right). These are all Series III cars and the grounds are pretty much as Doug described. I hope these pictures help. I know that your car is a Series II so it could have been different than what these pictures show.


(Frank Andersen) #24

That was an inlet backfire, Carl…

Generally thought to be caused by lean mixture - like you may have (had) an air leak? Or some other cause…:slight_smile:

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

(Doug Dwyer) #25

There’s nothin’ like adding a bit of bling to your grounds, David :smile:

Fixes can be as elaborate as the imagination and pocketbook allows. That’s part of the fun! For those best described as boring and impecunious, however, the method I mentioned is perfectly adequate. I’m finding myself in this category increasingly often. :slight_smile:

With respect to the headlight grounds in particular I’ve oft thought that lengthening the wires to create a new ground point in a less weather-exposed location might be a good idea.


(Doug Dwyer) #26

I hear ya, Carl !

Yep, Vaseline will do the trick…as long as it’s used in a cool area. I think it liquefies rather easily.

Over the years I’ve used silicone paste, dielectric grease, wheel bearing grease. Boat trailer wheel bearing grease is especially good…water proof and very sticky. Use any of 'em on newly-cleaned grounds, bulb sockets, and slide-on connectors and you’ll be ‘good to go’ for a long time.

Many manufacturers pack lamp sockets with some sort of grease, usually white. I’ve never known what is was, specifically.

There are lots of specialty products out there. I’m not against using them, mind you, but over the years I’ve found that generic whatever-you-have-on-the-shelf substitutes work perfectly well.


(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #27

Frank :

Definitely in the inlet! that is why it blew off the air filter!!

Son opines, a slack timing chain. The real mileage of the engine is not known. And the episode caused a sensor, probably the knock sensor to relate to the PCM. PCM recovered with time. And,. the car runs fine…


(Jochen Glöckner) #28

Thank you all!

Clarification is good. Obviously there have only been single ring connectors for the inner headlight grounds at least on SIII cars - no bullet earth connectors, nor sleeve earth connectors, as per your pics, Paul.

Doug is of course right - it would be the cleanest and safest solution to insulate all electric devices and carry the path back to the battery with a separate wire. - Until some decades ago it was common on bicycles to only have a wire for the positive path and use the bicycle frame for the way back. I cannot remember how many times I desperately tried to restore the function of the light on such bikes. For the last twenty years or so it has become common that bicycle light systems come with hub dynamos and two wires and it didn’t even take LED lights to make them reliable and resisting even the crude elements bicycles are exposed to. - An easier version for cars would be to take the ground wires through a rubber grommet into the cabin and provide for grounds in a clean and dry place.underneath the dashboard maybe.

Thanks again


75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)