Had to leave her behind :-(

Disused Categories Modern
1

Hello all, I have been a lurker here for several months now and feel I, and
most certainly my '91 XJ40, have benefited greatly from the overall wisdom
of this mailing list. You all talked about control arm bushings, so I
changed mine, put some P4000s I got at Discount Tire on it and took it to
the dealer to get an "official"alignment. Changed the differential and
brake fluids, had the transmission flushed out, resoldered the bulb modules,
stopped the HSMO leak at the “Y” hose (I thought), did the brakes, rebuilt
the calipers, changed rotors, wheel bearings, some hoses, ect, ect.

Thought I had my cat in tip-top shape and let my wife take a trip by herself
and the kids up to our parents in Illinois (we live in the Dallas/Ft. Worth,
TX area). She calls me Sunday night from my mom’s farm to tell me the car
won’t start. For two hours I tried to tell my brother (a much better
mechanic than I will ever be and who runs a motorcycle shop specializing in
Nortons and Triumphs) what to check out and how things should be according
to the Haynes manual. He checked connections, relays, fuses, pressure, ect.

Right away it was apparent that he was getting nothing out of the fuel pump.
No pressure, noise, or continuity from the pump side of the connection.
Being the good lurker I try to be, I had a spare Crankshaft Position Sensor
in the car which did not help either. There was also good voltage at the
fuel pump connection in the trunk for a few seconds after the key was turned
on. Had to be the fuel pump we both decided. Of coarse the nearest dealer
is close to a hundred miles away and next day delivery from mail order is
just not going to happen out in the middle of nowhere.

I threw what tools I thought I’d need in our Escort, stopped at Moore Jaguar
in St. Louis for a fuel pump the next morning and changed out the fuel pump
that afternoon. I plugged in the new fuel pump at the trunk connectors
before removing the tank and the pump ran fine when the key was turned on.
BTW, Haynes calls for dropping the drive shaft and center bearing to get at
the fuel lines when removing the fuel tank. All I could think about was the
trouble reported on the list with vibration because it was hard to get the
center bearing lined up right. I found the pins holding the fuel lines onto
the fittings at the bottom of the tank were easy to remove and re-install
with the drive shaft in place, though the connectors themselves were stuck
into the fittings and took considerable effort to free them I doubt it would
have been any easier to drop the drive shaft.

Bled the air out of the fuel lines and the Jag was purring again. Drove it
35 miles to the my in-laws that evening with no problems. My bride decided
she’d rather drive her and the kids back in the Escort at the end of the
week (as they had originally planned to do in the Jaguar) and I could take
the Jag (what a blow to my ego). Next morning the Jag started right up and
ran great for about 50 miles until it died as I was going 75MPH down I74 on
my way back to Texas. No sputter, no warnings, no gradual loss of power -
just a dead engine. No VCM codes, nothing! It coughed a few times as I
cranked it as if it wanted to go, but that was it.

I had notice the previous day that the power steering hose was leaking again
where it connected into the pump, which is right over the crank position
sensor (CKPS), but decided it could wait until I got the car home. Didn’t
even change out the CKPS because the car was running fine after installing
the new fuel pump. I decided I would cut off the offending section of the
PS hose, splice a new section of hose in and change out the CKPS to the new
one I carried in the car. Still nothing! One of the many things I did not
have with me was a multi meter and was pretty limited in running electrical
test. Even if the fuel pump was bad again, I figured there had to be
something else causing it to go bad.

I had to call the wife to come out and get me and run me into an auto parts
store for the steering hose. After a few hours of trying to get the beast
going I had to do the unthinkable. I had to call the closest dealer (“those
guys in Peoria”, as Bill calls them) and have them load my pride and joy up
for an indignant journey to their garage. I shall always recall the site
of the Jag sitting on the shoulder of the Interstate in my rearview mirror
as I pulled away from her.

In the fourteen and a half hour drive back to Texas (with all of us crammed
into the Escort) I still could not come up with what went wrong. It does
not so much bother me that I had a break down, but rather that I couldn’t
figure out what was wrong and was forced by circumstances to leave my
problems with someone else. Sure it would have been better to have had it
happen closer to home, but stuff happens. I still am at a loss what it
could be. I do wish I had thought to check, or better yet since I had one
with me, change out the fuel filter; but doubt that is the problem since
after the pump was changed out the day before I had such good pressure going
into the fuel rail. I also wish I could have cleaned up the CKPS holder
better, or at least had something better than the coolant out of the
radiator hose above it to flush it clean with.

So tell me, what should I have checked or done before giving up? If it is
indeed the fuel pump that has gone bad again, what could have caused it?
Failed to mention earlier that the old fuel pump ran just fine after pulling
it out of the tank. We figured just banging and moving it around getting it
out could have knocked an obstruction loose or allow a circuit to complete
enough to get it running again.

TIA,
Tom
'91 XJ40 (broke down in the Land of Lincoln)

2

I vote for the $10 fuel pump relay. If it developed a high-resistance
contact, the story described would make sense.

3

Hello Tom,

Sorry! I can think of three other things:

  1. Fuel pump relay.
  2. There is an inertial shut-off which will interrupt fuel flow in case
    the car gets into a wreck. The owner’s manual describes its position.
    (To the left of your left foot, US spec.)
  3. Ignition switch. Mine failed shortly after I got the car.

Vladan______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

4

My first thought, too!

Martin
88XJ40 141k> -----Original Message-----

From: Lokensgard, David [SMTP:dlokensgard@amylin.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 1998 4:19 PM
To: ‘pbecorp@flash.net’; ‘Modern List’
Subject: Re: Had to leave her behind :frowning:

I vote for the $10 fuel pump relay. If it developed a high-resistance
contact, the story described would make sense.

5

Tom,
I would not have figured on the fuel pump…we have not had
many failures of fuel pumps on the list. Some cars have two
fuel pumps…one in the tank and the other on the sub frame.

I would have looked at the crank position sensor, the inertial
switch(not many posts about that one ) and the fuel pump relay,
and some of the other relays(main).
Relays can be tricky…they can let some voltage pass, but have
enough resistance at the contacts to stop most current flow.
To test the pump circuit, I would hook up the meter to the pump
leads and see if the voltage is there with the load on.
After that, I would replace the ignition amplifier.
The crank sensor is the only sensor that will kill the car, the
fuel pump circuit can kill it, or the ignition amp\coil.
I do happen to have an old multimeter in the trunk…I have a
bag in there that has odd bits of hose, fuses, oil, hsmo,
brake fluid, clip leads, a few spare relays and bulbs…
As long as its in the trunk, I wont need it.
Sorry to hear of all your troubles…
Brett
1990 XJ6

6

Tom,

Congratulation on the good diagnosis techniques you used. You were just
unlucky!

Brett’s advise is pretty good.

The 1/2 sec spurt of the fuel pump on switch on, is normal priming. The
ECU will then only turn on the pump when it sees the crankshaft sensor
signal.

The fuel pump relay is use to switch it.

Thus the classic cause is the fault crank sensor.

However, as Brett says relays can be a bit temperamental sometimes and
fail when a load is put on them or just because they are falling to
bits. Of course the load goes up when there is fuel pressure.

Careful diagnosis is the key since one false assumption of measurement
can lead you up the garden path.

Lets see what we have.

1) If you didn't change the crankshaft sensor permanently, then do

so! If you did then check the new one out (it’s not the first time a new
part has gone bad whilst the old one is perfectly ok)

2 ) Check for your 1/2 voltage AND a corresponding whirring from

pump. If volts but no noise then checkout the connections down to the
pump and it’s ground.

3) If no volts then check both master relay and fuel pump relay.

4) Be particulary observant looking for a blip of volts when engine

is cranked on fuel pump line. This would clearly indicate a bad relay
falling apart after when a load is applied. (As Brett says you must have
load on!)

Personally I’d forget the ignition amp as this only affects sparks
(unless you find pump is whhirring ok)

My guesess would be:

a) You fixed the fault but broke something else

b) The fuel pump relay

c) There is dodgy connection to fuel pump

d) It was really the crakshaft sensor but you had something else

misplaced when you tried the new one.–
Andy Hutchinson
VA, USA
1990 XJ40 142K

7

Brett,

To my knowledge, the voltage in the pump leads were not checked
under load conditions. In retrospect this sounds like a pretty
good idea. With the leads disconnected from the tank evaporative
flange and connected to a meter the proper voltage was measured.
If there is faulty connection in the tank, testing it under load
might well show up in variations of the voltage reading. Of coarse
we couldn’t get the old fuel pump to run until it was out of the
tank. The Haynes manuel doesn’t show it, but the leads from the
fuel pump plug into a connector on the inside of the evaporative
flange while the power leads that run through the trunk lining
plug into the the top side connector of the evaporative flange.

The inertial switch in the foot well was one of the first things
I had my brother check. The crank sensor didn’t appear to make
a difference when a new one was installed. My brother said he
had tried changing out the relays (main, ignition and fuel) with
new ones he had in his shop. I suspect though that when the new
relays didn’t help, he put the old ones back in the car and the
new ones back in his stock.

Though the connection on both the top and bottom of the tank flange
appeared to be good - accepting the leads with a tight fit. I do
think there is a very good possibility that this is where the
problem is. Wish I had check for resistance across them while
wiggling the connectors before I put the tank back in.

Just to be on the safe side I’ll be putting some spare relays in
the car just in case. :slight_smile: Thanks for the suggestions.

Tom
'91 XJ40~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I would not have figured on the fuel pump…we have not had
many failures of fuel pumps on the list. Some cars have two
fuel pumps…one in the tank and the other on the sub frame.

I would have looked at the crank position sensor, the inertial
switch(not many posts about that one ) and the fuel pump relay,
and some of the other relays(main).

Relays can be tricky…they can let some voltage pass, but have
enough resistance at the contacts to stop most current flow.
To test the pump circuit, I would hook up the meter to the pump
leads and see if the voltage is there with the load on.

8

Andy Hutchinson wrote:

Careful diagnosis is the key since one false assumption of measurement
can lead you up the garden path.

> >My guesess would be: > > a) You fixed the fault but broke something else 
     Wouldn't be the first time, but I'll be darn if I can think
     of what it might be.

b) The fuel pump relay

     Consider it replaced once I get my hands back on the car!
     Relays can't cost much and aren't worth taking a chance on.

c) There is dodgy connection to fuel pump

     After reading your all's suggestions on what might be the 
     problem this is what I most likely suspect.  I think it is
     the connection going through the flange at the top of the 
     tank.

d) It was really the crakshaft sensor but you had something else
misplaced when you tried the new one.

     Again, a distinct possibility, but I can't think of what it
     might be.  The second time it happened there was nothing else
     I had apart except the power steering hose.

I’ll be talking to the dealer’s service dept. Friday afternoon. I plan
to suggest to him it might be the relays or the connectors on either/both
sides of the tank flange. When I dropped off the key they told me it
sounded like the fuel pump was bad again, but as Brett noted, not much of
a history of bad fuel pumps on these cars. Hard to believe I’d have two
bads ones at the same time.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Tom
'91 XJ40

9

Hummmm,
You could not get the old fuel pump to run until you removed it
from the tank…
How did you test that?
If I had a fuel problem, I would find a way to hook up a meter
with the pump in place, and hooked up, then try to start the car…
You should read 10 volts and up, and the pump should run or not.
Another way to test it would be to hook 12 volts up to the pump
at the closest point, and see if you could hear it run.
If it runs, start the car…
I had no idea that there are connections inside the tank for the
pump also…you might be on to something there…
Does your car also have the pump under the car?
Some years had 2 pumps…?
Of course, you could have a problem with the engine cpu, wiring
trouble, bad ground, sheared pulley key(drives crank position sensor)
or who knows what else, but I guess the dealer will figure it
out…
BrettDate: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 06:18:35 -0500 (CDT)
Message-Id: 199806051118.GAA22496@endeavor.flash.net
To: Brett Gazdzinski <@Brett_Gazdzinski>
From: pbecorp@flash.net (Tom Tinkham)
Subject: Re: Had to leave her behind :frowning:
Cc: Modern@jag-lovers.org

Brett,

To my knowledge, the voltage in the pump leads were not checked
under load conditions. In retrospect this sounds like a pretty
good idea. With the leads disconnected from the tank evaporative
flange and connected to a meter the proper voltage was measured.
If there is faulty connection in the tank, testing it under load
might well show up in variations of the voltage reading. Of coarse
we couldn’t get the old fuel pump to run until it was out of the
tank. The Haynes manuel doesn’t show it, but the leads from the
fuel pump plug into a connector on the inside of the evaporative
flange while the power leads that run through the trunk lining
plug into the the top side connector of the evaporative flange.

The inertial switch in the foot well was one of the first things
I had my brother check. The crank sensor didn’t appear to make
a difference when a new one was installed. My brother said he
had tried changing out the relays (main, ignition and fuel) with
new ones he had in his shop. I suspect though that when the new
relays didn’t help, he put the old ones back in the car and the
new ones back in his stock.

Though the connection on both the top and bottom of the tank flange
appeared to be good - accepting the leads with a tight fit. I do
think there is a very good possibility that this is where the
problem is. Wish I had check for resistance across them while
wiggling the connectors before I put the tank back in.

Just to be on the safe side I’ll be putting some spare relays in
the car just in case. :slight_smile: Thanks for the suggestions.

Tom
'91 XJ40

>I would not have figured on the fuel pump.....we have not had
>many failures of fuel pumps on the list. Some cars have two
>fuel pumps....one in the tank and the other on the sub frame.
>
>I would have looked at the crank position sensor, the inertial
>switch(not many posts about that one ) and the fuel pump relay,
>and some of the other relays(main).

>Relays can be tricky....they can let some voltage pass, but have
>enough resistance at the contacts to stop most current flow.
>To test the pump circuit, I would hook up the meter to the pump
>leads and see if the voltage is there with the load on.
10

Brett Gazdzinski wrote:

Hummmm,
You could not get the old fuel pump to run until you removed it
from the tank…
How did you test that?
If I had a fuel problem, I would find a way to hook up a meter
with the pump in place, and hooked up, then try to start the car…
You should read 10 volts and up, and the pump should run or not.
Another way to test it would be to hook 12 volts up to the pump
at the closest point, and see if you could hear it run.
If it runs, start the car…
I had no idea that there are connections inside the tank for the
pump also…you might be on to something there…
Does your car also have the pump under the car?
Some years had 2 pumps…?

Hooked up lead going into the tank to a known good 12V battery and
got nothing. Did not think to measure for voltage drop though when
applying voltage. Also checked for resitance through the motor leads
before pulling the tank - got next to none on leads going to old
fuel pump still in the tank, while showing a healthy resitance when
hooked up to the leads of the new pump before installing. (Sorry,
can’t remember what Ohms range setting my brother had his multi-
meter set on).

Only the one fuel pump in the tank on this cat ('91). It is my
understanding that '90 and earlier were equiped with the the fuel
pump on the outside of the tank. Later year models were manufactured
with one fuel pump located in the tank. Haynes suggest adding a
secondary pump to the '90 and earlier year models to reduce engine
stall and “chattering”.

BTW, I talked to the dealer’s service department Friday afternoon.
They say the service tech working on the car thinks it is another
bad fuel pump! They hadn’t pulled the tank yet, but there were
unable to get any kind of response out of the fuel pump. They said
everything checked out correctly up to the tank. I told them I’d
been down that road before and doubted it could be another bad pump.
I asked them to check the connections in the tank and at the flange,
and to go ahead and change the pump again if they wanted as I could
get parts warranty on it anyway. We’ll see.

Tom
'91 XJ40

11

Thanks for the info Tom!
Most people get the problem fixed and we never hear from them
again, until something else breaks…
Sure sounds like a bad fuel pump to me…if you put 12 volts
to it and it does not run, then its bad, or the connections are
bad.
I am kind of glad I have the external pump…its not as nice
as the in tank pump, but its easy to get at…
Brett
…Date: Sat, 6 Jun 1998 13:27:49 -0500 (CDT)
Message-Id: 199806061827.NAA01790@endeavor.flash.net
To: Brett Gazdzinski <@Brett_Gazdzinski>
From: pbecorp@flash.net (Tom Tinkham)
Subject: Re: Had to leave her behind :frowning:
Cc: Modern@jag-lovers.org

Brett Gazdzinski wrote:

Hummmm,
You could not get the old fuel pump to run until you removed it
from the tank…
How did you test that?
If I had a fuel problem, I would find a way to hook up a meter
with the pump in place, and hooked up, then try to start the car…
You should read 10 volts and up, and the pump should run or not.
Another way to test it would be to hook 12 volts up to the pump
at the closest point, and see if you could hear it run.
If it runs, start the car…
I had no idea that there are connections inside the tank for the
pump also…you might be on to something there…
Does your car also have the pump under the car?
Some years had 2 pumps…?

Hooked up lead going into the tank to a known good 12V battery and
got nothing. Did not think to measure for voltage drop though when
applying voltage. Also checked for resitance through the motor leads
before pulling the tank - got next to none on leads going to old
fuel pump still in the tank, while showing a healthy resitance when
hooked up to the leads of the new pump before installing. (Sorry,
can’t remember what Ohms range setting my brother had his multi-
meter set on).

Only the one fuel pump in the tank on this cat ('91). It is my
understanding that '90 and earlier were equiped with the the fuel
pump on the outside of the tank. Later year models were manufactured
with one fuel pump located in the tank. Haynes suggest adding a
secondary pump to the '90 and earlier year models to reduce engine
stall and “chattering”.

BTW, I talked to the dealer’s service department Friday afternoon.
They say the service tech working on the car thinks it is another
bad fuel pump! They hadn’t pulled the tank yet, but there were
unable to get any kind of response out of the fuel pump. They said
everything checked out correctly up to the tank. I told them I’d
been down that road before and doubted it could be another bad pump.
I asked them to check the connections in the tank and at the flange,
and to go ahead and change the pump again if they wanted as I could
get parts warranty on it anyway. We’ll see.

Tom
'91 XJ40

12

This problem reminds me of when I had the code 26 problem with my '92. Got
the code, drove for a few miles (car continued to run OK), got home, changed
plugs, then car would not start. I could not find the problem, so I ended up
having it towed to a local independent. The only thing he did, so he says,
was to disconnect the fuel rail and run some gas through it. Car has run fine
since (several months ago). Strangely, a month ago when I had my car at the
dealer for some freebie seatbelt work, I mentioned this incident to the
service manager, and he said that this “fix” is something they do occasionally
as well! I did change my fuel filter, but while it did appear to be used, it
was by no means plugged.
Several folks suggested the fuel pump relay…as these cars have tons of
relays, is there any way to test them (visually or otherwise) to determine if
they’re bad??
Greg
'92XJ40
PS: I dismounted, pressure washed and waxed my wheels this week–they really
look sharp with ALL the brake dust removed (for a while, anyway!).

13

Greg,
All the relays on my car come apart. I had them all open when
I serviced the blower motors. Most were in great shape…like
they were never used…
Some had knurled contacts, and others had the normal contacts.
Relays can be cleaned with a points file…its like a paper thin
file…I don’t use it on relays though…for $2.00, you can get
a good relay by mail order.
I will keep my eye out for some mil spec relays…I replaced
some of the contacts and relays on my old car with some industrial
relays…the original chrysler relays were a joke!
I was at the Jaguar dealer a while ago, and a guy was looking
for a relay for his bmw…it was a typical relay, and he did
not even open it up to check the contacts, he was told that it
might be the cause of whatever problem he was having…the bmw
dealer wanted $45.00, so he went to the Jaguar dealer and got
one for $30.00…while I was waiting for the parts guy to look
up the # on the relay, I opened it up for the guy, and the contacts
were perfect…I told him he could get relays like that for
a lot less, but he thought I was a nut case, and paid the $30.00.
I get the idea that if the DEALER told him he had to install it
only on a full moon, at midnite, after anointing himself with oil,
he would have done so. I wonder how far they could go with this…
“your car wont run unless you give us the keys to your place at
the beach, where we have to mind meld with your car for a week
or two…make sure the fridge has plenty of Moosehead beer in
it”
Maybe I should change jobs…

The bit about running some gas through the fuel rail is interesting…
This is what happens while the engine is running…when you
turn the key, the fuel pump runs, and MUST push gas through the
fuel rail…

Brett
1990 XJ6
,…

Message-ID: 3a391db4.357b9385@aol.comFrom: GDonati@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 03:32:20 EDT
To: modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: Had to leave her behind :frowning:
Sender: owner-modern@jag-lovers.org

This problem reminds me of when I had the code 26 problem with my '92. Got
the code, drove for a few miles (car continued to run OK), got home, changed
plugs, then car would not start. I could not find the problem, so I ended up
having it towed to a local independent. The only thing he did, so he says,
was to disconnect the fuel rail and run some gas through it. Car has run fine
since (several months ago). Strangely, a month ago when I had my car at the
dealer for some freebie seatbelt work, I mentioned this incident to the
service manager, and he said that this “fix” is something they do occasionally
as well! I did change my fuel filter, but while it did appear to be used, it
was by no means plugged.
Several folks suggested the fuel pump relay…as these cars have tons of
relays, is there any way to test them (visually or otherwise) to determine if
they’re bad??
Greg
'92XJ40
PS: I dismounted, pressure washed and waxed my wheels this week–they really
look sharp with ALL the brake dust removed (for a while, anyway!).

14

(snip)

Greg
'92XJ40
PS: I dismounted, pressure washed and waxed my wheels this week–they really
look sharp with ALL the brake dust removed (for a while, anyway!).

Greg,

Just a friendly suggestion. Get a set of Kleen Wheels for at least the front wheels of your cat.
I now have them all around. They are $32.95 a pair at SICP, or you can order them at Pep Boys for
about the same price. Say goodbye to brake dust on your wheels forever.

Don Keirstead
'91 XJ40 SovOn 06/08/98 03:32:20 you wrote:

15

PS: I dismounted, pressure washed and waxed my wheels this week–they really
look sharp with ALL the brake dust removed (for a while, anyway!).
Just a friendly suggestion. Get a set of Kleen Wheels for at least the front wheels of your cat.
I now have them all around. They are $32.95 a pair at SICP, or you can order them at Pep Boys for
about the same price. Say goodbye to brake dust on your wheels forever.

Not trying to sound like a smart*ss or anything, but why not go to
the source and get low-dust pads, rather than going with a
workaround?

Take care,
Greg Price
All XJs

1-888-JAG-BITS

16

By low dust do you mean non Jag original? I’ve had the genuine article, and
they’re filthy. Very pleased with the Kleen wheels.

Kevin
93 XJ6, Bothell WA>

Not trying to sound like a smart*ss or anything, but why not go to
the source and get low-dust pads, rather than going with a
workaround?

17

Hummmmm
I figure the brake pads must wear as you use them…sure would
be nice to find pads that don’t wear out, then find rotors that
don’t wear out…
If the pads wear, they MUST make dust…if there is dirt within
100 feet of my car, it will stick to it like a magnet…
Birds change their migration routs to pass over my car…
I have hesitated on the clean wheels, cause I wonder about the
air flow and heat build up…I can not believe that the airflow
is not reduced, and temps increased, but don’t know if it causes
problems…
What about noise…are they close to the wheels where they could
rub?
Do they melt?
Do they look ok on the car?
Brett
1990 XJ6
…Reply-To: KCampbell@AdRem.net
From: “Kevin Campbell” KCampbel@gte.net
To: “Modern List” modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: Dusty wheels
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 21:17:38 -0700
Message-ID: 001b01bd935d$89d4fb00$41e122c0@marvin.campbellclan
In-Reply-To: 199806090124.TAA04631@Rt66.com
Importance: Normal
Sender: owner-modern@jag-lovers.org

By low dust do you mean non Jag original? I’ve had the genuine article, and
they’re filthy. Very pleased with the Kleen wheels.

Kevin
93 XJ6, Bothell WA

Not trying to sound like a smart*ss or anything, but why not go to
the source and get low-dust pads, rather than going with a
workaround?

18

I don’t know how much air is actually expected to flow out through the wheel
whilst in motion, but I’ve never noticed any heat build up. You can’t really
tell they’re in place with my wheels, but with some of the aftermarket
wheels that expose more of the brake disc you would be able to see them.
They are really nothing more than a thin metal disc with holes punched for
the studs to go through - they make no noise whatsoever. The difference in
wheel cleanliness is absolutely remarkable - I would have dirty wheels
within about 30 miles previously (perhaps an exageration, but that’s what it
seemed like!).

Kevin
93 XJ6, Bothell WA> I have hesitated on the clean wheels, cause I wonder about the

air flow and heat build up…I can not believe that the airflow
is not reduced, and temps increased, but don’t know if it causes
problems…
What about noise…are they close to the wheels where they could
rub?
Do they melt?
Do they look ok on the car?
Brett
1990 XJ6
…

19

Kevin,
Thanks for the reply.
I suspect the reason the wheels get so dirty without the kleen
wheels is that the ducts in the front of the air dam, direct air
onto the disks, and it flows out the wheels, blowing the dust
with it. It seems to be pointed that way…
I sure would like to keep my wheels clean…
Hummmmm…
Brett
…Reply-To: KCampbell@AdRem.net
From: “Kevin Campbell” KCampbel@gte.net
To: “Brett Gazdzinski” <@Brett_Gazdzinski>,
“Modern List” modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: Dusty wheels
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 06:39:24 -0700
Message-ID: 001d01bd93ac$03a0cdd0$41e122c0@marvin.campbellclan
In-Reply-To: <19980609125808.WREC11142@[166.32.177.21]>
Importance: Normal

I don’t know how much air is actually expected to flow out through the wheel
whilst in motion, but I’ve never noticed any heat build up. You can’t really
tell they’re in place with my wheels, but with some of the aftermarket
wheels that expose more of the brake disc you would be able to see them.
They are really nothing more than a thin metal disc with holes punched for
the studs to go through - they make no noise whatsoever. The difference in
wheel cleanliness is absolutely remarkable - I would have dirty wheels
within about 30 miles previously (perhaps an exageration, but that’s what it
seemed like!).

Kevin
93 XJ6, Bothell WA

I have hesitated on the clean wheels, cause I wonder about the
air flow and heat build up…I can not believe that the airflow
is not reduced, and temps increased, but don’t know if it causes
problems…
What about noise…are they close to the wheels where they could
rub?
Do they melt?
Do they look ok on the car?
Brett
1990 XJ6
…

20

Brett Gazdzinski wrote:

I can not believe that the airflow
is not reduced, and temps increased, but don’t know if it causes
problems…
What about noise…are they close to the wheels where they could
rub?
Do they melt?
Do they look ok on the car?

I used them for a while, and they did substantially reduce the dust. They
looked fine and didn’t make any noise.However, after using them for several
months, my rotors started to warp. I am not saying that they caused it to
happen,
but I decided not take any chances with the new rotors. So I no longer use
them.

I just end up cleaning the wheels once a week to keep them looking sharp.

-Mike
89 XJ6> Brett

1990 XJ6
…

Reply-To: KCampbell@AdRem.net
From: “Kevin Campbell” KCampbel@gte.net
To: “Modern List” modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: Dusty wheels
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 21:17:38 -0700
Message-ID: 001b01bd935d$89d4fb00$41e122c0@marvin.campbellclan
In-Reply-To: 199806090124.TAA04631@Rt66.com
Importance: Normal
Sender: owner-modern@jag-lovers.org

By low dust do you mean non Jag original? I’ve had the genuine article, and
they’re filthy. Very pleased with the Kleen wheels.

Kevin
93 XJ6, Bothell WA

Not trying to sound like a smart*ss or anything, but why not go to
the source and get low-dust pads, rather than going with a
workaround?

–

Mike Powers | Reliable Software Technologies
http://www.rstcorp.com | 21515 Ridgetop Circle, Ste 250
@Mike_Powers1 | Sterling, VA 20166