Handbrake cable rear connection?


(Mr. Phelps) #1

Car is series 1 ,July,1966. 2+2 4.2 I bought a new handbrake cable and it appears to me the cable is too long. i was told today to turn the bracket around at the linkage where it connects. Sorry i do not know how to load photos. its the threaded connection that screws into a square block that’s part of the linkage. the adjuster is on this end too. I have the block swiveled towards the cable, i don’t see that turning it away from the cable and toward the linkage is going to help any. As this is not an easy area to access i thought i should ask the list before turning it round. Anyone know which way that “attachment block” should be , away from or towards the cable?


#2

I also have a S1 2+2. I just finished the removal and reinstall of the rear cage. The handbrake cable was a struggle to get back into position. The garage floor is cold and I am no longer all that nimble.

As you probably know, the block has a slot that you slip the wire cable into and then the ferrule on the end of the spiral cable threads in. I have the slot facing the left (driver’s side). I had to push the cable back into the driveshaft tunnel to get room to work. Was a challenge, but all better now.

Best results


(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #3

How mine looks (S2 OTS):


(Mr. Phelps) #4

Thanks men, that’s exactly how i have it now. The inner cable is just too long. they always have an excuse for inferior products, has to be the installer.! wont waste my time turning it around. I suppose i will have to shorten it and swedge the end back on or find a suitable, correct length replacement. Could it be the series 1 2+2 has a different handbrake lever than the later cars which requires shorter length???


(Nick Saltarelli) #5

I shortened the inner cable by snipping off the ball on the end then tig welded on a small nut to replace it. An easier way to approach the problem is to “lengthen” the outer cable, which I’ve also done with an older item. I think I used 4-5 #10 nuts as spacers. Clamp each nut one at a time in a vice and use a hacksaw to cut through on one side to form a C. Slide the cable adjuster fully forward and place the split nuts over the inner cable and clamp them shut with pliers. They should be a loose fit, ie not binding the inner cable.Slide the adjuster back over the spacers and outer cable.


(69 FHC ) #6

I can see how you would have a problem if the rectangular block Geo shows in his picture is flipped 180 degrees.


(Jerry Mills) #7

If you flipped it 180, how would you get the cable in ?
Doesn’t look like the end would pass through the arms.


(69 FHC ) #8

I agree with you, I don’t see how either unless someone separated the block from the arms and reinstalled it backwards but with the slot still “on top” as in the picture. .


(Mr. Phelps) #9

I certainly appreciate the forum comments and suggestions. My car is going back to the body shop tomorrow for more paintwork, when it returns I will remove the cable and shorten the inner. Im not sure which method I will use but hopefully my wife can get photo posting figured out and i will post my fix. I must say i do not understand why suppliers contract aftermarket parts and do not include the dimensions the products need to adhere to? for the record i measured the old cable and found it to be 30" total overall length including clevis at both ends. Sadly i caused the entire problem when i removed the IRS,after failing to disconnect the cable which appeared rusty i cut it . :frowning: now i find that little bit of surface rust was no issue at all because the factory cable had an inner non-metalic lining and the inner cable no rust at all. I’m only now just learning that quality parts are often not available. Makes one feel most ignorant to say the least.
Nick, i have a better interpretation of your post now, the washers fit inside of the adjuster on the end of the outer cable? that makes good sense, and can be done in place . great! I suppose could put any kind of split sleeve inside as long as the end of the cable itself is still inside the barrel adjuster


(Nick Saltarelli) #10

Yup. It was a rube goldberg fix but it worked. It would be better, as you suggest, to fab up some sort of heavy split sleeve that allowed the inner cable to move freely while not being an overly tight fit in the adjuster. I think a short piece of the upper sleeve from a 1/4" anchor bolt might work well - already split down one side, opened for placement over the inner cable and then clamped shut.

image