Handbrake compensator assembly question

I can’t get the levers off the rod. I don’t want to damage the part. Should both levers move freely?

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If its an E and you are referring to the operating mechanism on the IRS , EVERYTHING must move freely in order to release.no short cuts here

My question was listed under Handbrake compensator assembly, E Type.

So you have the answer, they need to move freely.

I’m not sure about the main rod that secures it to the cage but Jaguar used all stainless steel for the clevises in the compensator assembly. Maybe soak the rod joint with penetrating oil, then try to work it a bit.

Clive, thanks for the response. The rod is seized to the lever (middle one) to the point I’m concerned with damaging the parts. I’m soaking in WD40, if that doesn’t work I guess I’ll have to try heat!

WD-40 is a lousy penetrant: try Kroil or PB Blaster.

Or make your own penetrating fluid - 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. It’s worked for me better than any of the others. You just have to shake it before use ass the two chemicals separate after a while.
WD-40 is a water displacement fluid, not a penetrating/release fluid.

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Good stuff: Kroil is essentially that.

Never tried Kroil. This stuff is easy to make, works super well and has never let me down. Good to know it’s similar to Kroil.

Jay Leno’s mechanics use it so it must be pretty good. It worked for me when others did not.

I have an old 9.5 HP Evinrude outboard boat motor that had been sitting in garage for years. Would not budge with a long wrench on the flywheel. Dropped a little ATF down each cylinder and next morning it was free, pulled thru smoothly with the rope and fired up and ran great after a few pulls. I am a believer in using ATF for this and can understand that Acetone mixed with it would be even more effective.

68 E-type FHC

When i redid my hand brake i did everything i could think of to free up that joint. I ended up drilling out the rivet and using a clevis pin.

I was able to free up the lever from the rod. The only part is the threaded block that the E Brake cable screws into. The block has rivets on each side, this block should pivot slightly, right?