Seems like I recall a discussion about syncro trans that became hard to shift into first gear after it had been driven for a while,what was the outcome on this? mine does this
When that happens is it also difficult to select reverse?
Clutch hydraulics in need of a bleed or other service may initially show up as difficulty getting into 1 & R.
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The clutch is dragging
Either
- Clutch slave cylinder pushrod clearance needs adjusting
(You can tell if this is needed by looking at how much free play is at the clutch pedal when you push it. If you have about 3/4 inch, pushrod needs no adjustment) - Air in the clutch hydraulic system
- Oil on the clutch
- Some sort of clutch disc/pressure plate defect
Other may add other causes…
Dennis
69 OTS
If you’re not already using it considering changing to Redline MT 90.
While checking the pushrod and bleeding the hydraulics is worthwhile, to me if the problem only occurs when the car is hot it’s more likely to be an internal gearbox issue than clutch.
One workaround is to select 2nd then first, and resist the temptation to shift into first when the car is rolling to a stop; only shift into first when the car is stationary.
Pete, I noticed you have a '62. So I have a stupid question: do you have your original transmission or a newer one?
its a syncro…vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv…
By “dragging” do you mean engaged?
By dragging I mean it is still rotating a bit when the clutch pedal is at the floor
Denni
Worn out clutch release (throw out) bearing? If it is this (and it was on my car after I had eliminated all other suggestions), engine and gearbox out………. And if you don’t have the space or tools, a large bill.
My TO bearing is new and adjusted correctly…yes it was a large bill …I went to a major restoration shop in case there was a problem down the road
Pete
Here are two tests you can do.
Note that it is temporary so there is no increased wear on the throwout bearing.
- Measure the distance from the rubber face of the clutch pedal to the floor carpet that it presses against when you press it to the floor. It should be about 9 inches. Some clutch master cylinders come with clevis fork rods that do not give this stroke
2)Using your hand (and with the engine off), put grab the clutch pedal by the rubber and check the loose free play my moving it towards the back of the car, then the front. This is wiggly type loose, not the initial pedal free play. This will check whether the master cylinder clevis pin has ovalled the clevis pin fork after decades of use. My car had 1 1/2 inches of free play here due to ovalled clutch master cylinder clevis pin hole. Report on the amount of loose free play as this could be your problem. ie the clutch is not disengaging because it is missing 1 1/2 inches of pedal stroke due to the ovalled clevis pin fork
- warm transmission up very very fully.
- Test and confirm that gears crash going into first gear
- measure and report free play at clutch pedal (say it is an inch)
- “Temporarily” adjust slave cylinder pushrod so that the clutch pedal free play is zero inches
- Test whether gears crash when you go into first gear. Do this test as follows.
press in clutch and immediately select first gear
press in clutch, count to three, then select first gear
press in clutch, count to 5 and select first gear
press in clutch, count to 10 and select first gear. - readjust clutch slave pushrod to get 1/2 inch clutch pedal free play
And report on the outcome
If the test above shows that the pushrod adjustment “test” made the problem go away, then the solution can be to lengthen the clevis pin fork of the clutch master cylinder - which brings the pedal closer to the driver and gives you more pedal stroke. New clutch master cylinders sometimes have rods that you have to cut and weld onto your clevis fork.
Dennis
69 OTS
sounds like a good test…give me a week
Peter has confirmed he does have a synchro transmission.
Thus, I would suggest reverse gear is used for this test not first gear. Peter stated it is hard going into first, not that it was clashing, and with first gear synchronized that is what one would expect if it is dragging. If the clutch is dragging, he may notice it going into first gear hard, but with minor drag it may be hard to tell just what qualifies. If reverse is used for the test, the clashing will be immediately noticed and clearly indicate the disk is still spinning.
Clutch dragging can also be caused by a failed pilot bushing or sticking clutch disk splines.
Tom
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Tom,
You are 100% correct. First will try synchronize whereas reverse will not.
Thanks for correcting me!
Dennis
FYI The clutch/pp/TOB are all recently replaced by a well known local socal shop…there is no grinding/clashing…just needs a couple of shoves to get into first after been driven a while…it goes into first fine if im rollong about 5 mph
If it was recent. Maybe you should have that shop check it out.
Tom
There have been problems befor with the rubber gaitor stopping the gear lever engageing gear…worth just checking you have nothing restricting gear lever movement. …Steve
I dont have the gaitor on mine restriction is not an issue