Here’s what mine looks like.
Left and center; good enough for me:
But on the right sight - starts to get ugly and see how the melted part sits higher. Like I said, almost looks like someone tried to put another layer on top since the center and left side don’t have this.
Not sure how much of a problem this is causing.
Erica, think this one looks original? 
It might be original but I don’t think that window seal is original. That looks like A post window frame seal material… If you removed the front one with some 3m adhesive remover it would likely be square and solid. It had likely lost its spring so someone added another layer of something to stop leakage.
I was only able to find square and hollow so I stuffed it full of rubber door weatherstrip from home depot to give it more firmness. The soft top seal can be hollow because it takes zero weight. The canvas is pulling backwards. The hardtop has weight so the seal needs to support it.
This looks like a pretty good candidate:
They also have 1/4" x 3/4 and" 3/8" x 3/4".
Do you happen to know the size? Not sure if the junky ones are the right outside dimensions, but this one is so old and worn that I’d want to pull it off and measure the channel, but would rather have a source before I do that.
Do you also happen to have a part number that’s not also junk for those window seals? Agreed those are clearly not correct – and it shows when the top is on and the windows are up.
Depends what “dense” means. It needs be puffy enough to have squish, just not a hollow box section that will collapse easily between two fingers. The same material used on the window gaskets should be sufficient.
My top rubber seal was hollow in the middle. Just a square piece of sponge rubber that was like this 
Erica… you really should do a complete write-up: all I know about hardtops has been learned by reading your posts
Even that is better than what I’ve been sold. It’s not oblong and appears thicker. So long as it’s well supported and you can slip a credit card between the front fiberglass lip and the A post cap, and your clamps have enough tension to not pop open you should be fine. If not, then fill the hollow ends with more rubber.
Erica, found a diagram that shows the right hand window seal is BD21799 and the left hand is BD21800, but Barrett shows them as the same part (BD21799 points to BD21800). Do you know if they’re the same?
They should be the same, you just lay them in the reverse direction. There is no molded curve to it.
IIRC the SIII seal for the windshield is different than the others hard tops.
On the SIII hardtop the windscreen seal is the same P/N as that for the convertible top for the SI, SII. The literature doesn’t specify but my guess is the SI, SII hardtop uses the same seal as the convertible top also, BD.17413. The only difference is SIII hardtop shows BD.17413/1, the /1 most likely meaning a difference in length. Cross section is the same.
Pulled off a piece of what I think is the original weatherstrip today. It’s 3/4" high, 7/8" to 1" across at the bottom (at different parts), and 1" across at the top with a dip in the center 5/8" wide as you can see from the pictures I posted on the 27th. Solid core.
So seems like the original has a slight slope top to bottom (not sure why), and is closer to 1" wide x 3/4" tall versus the 3/4" x 3/4" reproductions.
I’m not sure if the indent at the top is part of the design or just a 50 year old piece that sat compressed against a windshield for some numbers of years.
I think it’s likely just smushed. It might also account for what you’re perceiving to be a slope in the cross section. I guess it depends on how supple it still is and whether it has taken a set. I’m sure a square one would work. The important part is that it be solid to have some resistance.
Understood. If you measure the channel without the weatherstripping, it’s 1" wide, so I’m surprised a 3/4" wide would work. Well then again, I guess you said it didn’t. But ignoring the hollow core, seems like they could at least get the width right!
Finally got the proper window channel rubberstripping. Is that pocket on the outside designed so the glass just touches the bottom and ends up seated in the channel? Note: I’m stretching it out above the picture for effect.
I’ll grab a shot of mine and upload it in a bit. That rubber doesn’t look much like the ones on my hard or soft top frame and I think they’re the same part. Mine have a couple different landings molded in and I think the glass hits the rubber roughly in the center. Maybe yours are soft enough that the glass is intended to form its own landings?
Note you’ll also want to put blocks of sponge rubber on the bottom of the hardtop shell in the corners where it meets the car. Otherwise you’ll end up with a lot of water ingress and howling draft there.
Hmmm, they may actually be the same part and I just laid them up differently. The thin lip I had on the left edge in my picture looks like it’s the edge glued against the hardtop on yours.
They probably added that thin lip so that if you slam the door with the window up, the gasket will have more flex to move inward and then come back out.
It can only fit one way if it’s the correct part. It has a channel on the back that slips over the inner rail of the top, just as on the convertible frame. The petrified ones that mine came with, which I assume were original, looked the same.
edit: That said, those you have may work. Stick it there with tape and close the door and roll the window up. See what you get.
