Hardtop alignment and fit

The channel on it isn’t wide enough to go on top of the headliner material that’s currently wrapped around the inner rail. Your material looks thinner than mine, so that could be my problem. Let me see how much I can compress it.

It is a thick rail and mine didn’t want to conform at first and puckered out. I left them sitting in place in the hot garage for a few days and they took a set. I considered installing them the way you have it but the windows didn’t roll up easily that way.

On my car that little upper screw is nothing but a trim attaching screw

Just happened to be looking at this on the Moss catalog and I see part # BD17413 for an SI and SII and part # BD37782/1 for an SIII and its cheaper….
No description to know if there is a difference.
SNG references both part numbers under the same part photo without reference to SI, SII or SIII that I could see. Same price for both, aftermarket much cheaper. I recall purchasing a replacement years ago and noticing it had a different profile than what I removed so I called them ( SNG IIRC) and they said : “you got the SIII one just keep it and we’ll send you the other profile. It was similar to the one I had. The square profile was, according to SNG, for an SIII.

What I did find was the 10/32 hole behind the 'nuckle" …also noted that the lower Nipple had a coresponding threaded hole in the top support frame,all I can figure is that it is used as an alignment hole but the mystery is how the lower inside hole is used with with the nipple in place…

The little hole on the top knuckle outside is for alignment. There is a hole in the B post door seal channel and the screw passes through there into the bracket. When the top bolts are cinched up you can tighten that screw and it moves the side of the hardtop outward to create a small air gap so it doesn’t mar the body paint on the side. Once established you glue the seal back down and then every time you bolt up the top it will have the gap.

The lower screw is a mystery no one has been able to answer. The best guess I’ve heard is that a snapping stud screws in and is somehow used with the soft top hood. I’ve never had one of those though so I don’t know that it’s accurate.

Your statement about the snap screw is correct as I have that arrangement…what is strange about that hole is the matching threaded hole in the convertable top frame…in the non moving part ,

I removed the door seal a bit and the inner finish strip and found the screw hole that is supposed to enable the knuckle to be adjusted but…it is not in the seal track but slightly aft of it in the solid metal and is a different size (smaller) than the one in the knuckle…???

You should be able to get a 10-32 screw in there. I think I put a small washer on mine so it would hold a bit better. Most like a 5mm (since metric washers aren’t as large OD as SAE).

So you put the 10-32 screw tn the body hole but how did that fit into the bracket?

There should be a hole with thread on the back of the bracket? Are you saying your alignment is so far off that you can’t get it to line up?

There is a threaded hole in the bracket but what I have here is two one way holes

I’m not sure I understand. Picture?

Imagine a threaded rod…needs to go into threads at each end thats the situation

I spent several hours trying to figure out this elusive little pad…I agree with the opinion that the long part of the J should face fwd…this is because it needs to be long enough to butt joint under the rubber in the top window frame where it meets. ( it could also butt behind the decending window seal) The hook of the J needs to be deep enough to fill the gap to the outside of the top…its just a small gap but important…The measurements in the former text were not accurate enough to use but the shape is correct…For the material I used interlocking floor sheeting fron HF that cost $10…lots left over