Hello gents!
Would you confirm that the harmonic balancer is responsible for that high pitched noise? I think it’s moving a little bit and I’m not talking about spinning lol but back and forth. Here are two pics and a short video. If you have a chance, could you check on your car whilst the engine is running that occasionally a shiny metal part of the balancer appears or not?
Thank you.
Paint a line across all grooves and see if the line ‘moves’ after running the engine a while.
If the damper has failed you can remove and send to DAMPER DOCTOR or DALE MANUFACTURING.
DO NOT SEND THE TIMING RELUCTOR RING!!!
Remove it and the locating roll pin before shipping.
NEW dampers from Jaguar are NLA!!!
bob
Thank you Bob. I’ll do the paint test you suggested. Dale Manufacturing will be open in July and Aug. They close every 3rd month.
Joe , it is the harmonic for sure , had mine do the same not long ago , horrible noise that . Mark
Mark, thank you for your opinion.
I borrowed my friends three jaw puller. Is it going to work on the harmonic balancer? It looks I have to remove the twin fan assembly for access. Is that correct? I measured the nut requires a 33 mm wrench. Is it the right size?
Thank you!
Did you do the paint stripe test Joe?
Yes, you will certainly need to remove some items to create enough room to use the puller. As long as you are able to get the hooks of the puller behind the balancer sufficiently, it should work. Its just pressed on and no different than most other cars when removing it. Just make sure you go through the body of the balancer and don’t latch out to the outer rim.
I believe a 33mm socket will do it for the crank bolt. The bolt head is a bit tapered, so there’s probably a small range of sizes that would work. I remember using an axle socket when I did mine, but can’t remember if it was a 33 or 34.
The damper bolt is actually 1 5/16" as it has been for Jaguar engines for decades.
SOMETIMES the damper just slides off with your hands, other times a puller is required.
bob
Thank you guys for the reply. Larry, I haven’t done the stripe test yet but going to do it sometime this week.
Right on, Joe - Personally, I wouldn’t mess with it until I did that test.
If you have to get the big bolt slackened off, I’ve heard that you can jam the breaker bar (with pipe?) against the shop floor and crank the engine - maybe someone can confirm? (haven’t done it myself but seems like a good method 
)
The bolt is tight, but not THAT tight. I wouldn’t recommend using the shop floor for leverage. Like I said earlier, the head of the bolt is slightly tapered, so its very easy for the socket to slip off. Plus, the impact shock of the motor torquing everything as well as the fact that you have no way to control where the tool goes if it slips i.e. into the pulleys or against sheetmetal, leads me to think of bad potential scenarios. I would just leave the belt on temporarily to keep it from turning and try removing the bolt with a breaker bar or impact. That is, once you’ve performed the test others have recommended above.
Brett, thank you for your advice. I thought of removing the fuel pump relay and try to crank it that way. I don’t know how to stop the engine to rotate so I can remove the nut. Even Scotty Kilmer used this method in one of his video.
Cheers!
The safest way is to ‘jam’ a prybar into the gearbox case opening on the bottom to lock the torque converter. Two people might be needed as the distance between the gearbox and front damper is greater than most arms on a single person can hold the torque required.
I have removed the damper with the ‘starter-motor’ technique and it does work.
Make sure the lever bar is long enough. A short bar might lift the car slightly and swing causing damage if placed against the floor/ground.
bob
Bob,
thank you for the advises. I’ll try using the starter motor first.
Cheers!
