Was curious if anyone has ever successfully removed the black side molding that is similar to the molding on the 93 model below? Can it be done without damaging the paint? What method did you use?
Thanks,
Kevin
Yes require rivets drilled, filler, & paint. Although I must confess I have come to like the moulding because it makes out the rubber bumpers for a more balanced aesthetic.
Are you certain they are not glued on?
If they are, dental floss works best.
After that, the paint is sure to be a different color and texture.
The side molding on my '83 was a riveted-on dealer add-on, which meant some jerk was drilling holes down the side of a brand new XJ-S on the showroom floor to add this cheap trim purchased from JC Whitney. I had it removed in the course of having the car painted.
As time goes by, glued-on becomes more common than riveted-on. Obviously, it’s cheaper to install. But it’s also better, as it doesn’t create rust pockets in the body. So with any luck at all, perhaps yours is glued-on.
Most likely Being in the business of Jaguar restoration and General bodywork for many yrs. My experience says the body color will be probably a different shade of color from where the molding was, Unless you are getting it painted I would live with it.
That was exactly the case in my car… Thankfully no rivets though.
And not to mention that if any of the panels were re-painted, 99% chances are that the trim was not removed…
My 96 had trim riveted on. When I had the car repainted, off they went!
My 2003 black GMC Yukon had 8" wide factory fitted rubber moulding about 6" up from the bottom of the doors. All four doors. Along the full length of each door. After 18 years the moulding began breaking apart. I pulled off the moulding and was left with multiple lines of glue, each line maybe 1/2 " wide. It did not want to come off. I tried a razor blade and ended up gouging the paint. Then various chemicals which didn’t work. In the end and after weeks of searching for a solution, wha did the trick was what is called an eraser wheel. It mounts on a hand held drill and physically rubs the glue off as the wheel spins. With NO paint damage. Very time consuming but very effective. FWIW. SD Faircloth
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For glue on moldings I have had success with soaking in mineral spirits, drizzled down onto the molding so it gets between the molding and the car, and the 3m eraser wheel. There are more expensive solvents,
3m makes a specific trim remover, but mineral spirits worked just as well for me. No harm to paint.
Just to clarify, the bonding material was a two sided tape. Glue on each side and guessing a thin rubber like material as the underlying material. Same general type wheel as BobPhx mentioned. SD
Bodymen use a Rubber wheel on a hand held die grinder to remover that also decals
I do a tremendous amount of glue residue and label removal.
One great glue dis-solver is ‘Lift Off’.
Goof Off will attack plastics or paint.
NEVER use a razor blade on any surface other than glass.
I have a few pieces of Plexi Glass sharpened for scraping off glue and labels.
Back in the day, removing chrome dodads was a part of customizing one’s car. Deling with the holesthat were left was the trick Easiestr was to braze thm closed. Of clurse, that left a paint issue toresolve.
I did some on my 47 ford and even more on my 49 Mercury. Teh latter easiest. it was black!!
Got lucky. No dealer installed door trim on my S3. Only a Leaper. I like i. Wish my jeep had a proper hood ornent. The jeep character of old comics!!
Carl
These are jaguar option they are stuck on with double sided tape. Cheese wire tool with handlls will get them off but you will destroy the plastic chrome if you distort them
