Headlamps turn off when Bonnet is lifted / Also Low Beam not working

My Low Beam is not working / the High Beam is working.

When the Bonnet is Raised / Opened about 12", the High Beam shuts off (I assume the Low Beam would also if it were working). The High Beam comes back on when the Bonet is Lowered / Closed.

Fuses checked and also the Wires in the Harness to the Front Lights. All seems OK.

Any thoughts / Ideas / Suggestions?

Thanks in Advance.

Most likely bad contacts or loose wires, in either the bonnet plug, or the wiring block, underneath the headlight scoops. More details on the year of your car would be helpful.

Welcome to the best Internet source of info on these magnificent beasts!

Try wiggling the plug and/r check for voltage at the pins

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As Paul assumes I also think the problem exists at the 8 pins bonnet plug or a cable broken close to the plug.

Agree, the only moving part (in theory) is the harness connector to the bonnet. You say the wires to the harness are OK, does that mean that you’ve disconnected the bonnet connector and verified voltage there? If you want to go further, ground the bonnet and with a carefully placed probe connected to 12V from the battery touch the appropriate pins at the bonnet side of the connector to see if the high and low beam lamps come on.
pauls

From another J-L Forum post (Joel H) this may be useful:

image

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Brant it’s almost certainty the 8 pin socket moving as the bonnet is opened. Jaguar clipped the wire to the lower part of the bonnet with a hook type clip to stop it from moving. This is usually missing. I’ve used a wire clamp from a Jaguar to secure it. If you don’t have something like this on your car you might install one.

Yes, likely the multiplug. Fiddle with it with the bonnet open and see if you can get the lights to come on.

If nothing works, parking lights, signals, etc when the bonnet is lifted it might be a bad ground.

I had one headlight that was intermittent. Tightening the screws in the wiring block in the bonnet solved the problem.

If you still can;t get your high beam to work, check the wiring at the switch on the dash. If someone has been there before you it’s easy to wire wrong as the switch is a bit hard to understand just looking at it.

when all the reachable things have been tried, check the bakelite junction block inside the bonnet fromt section. will have to remove headlight scoop. Every time I hit a bump the lights would go out

All:

First thanks for all of the great suggestions! I was blown away how quickly y’all responded. The little detail I forgot to enclose was that I have a '69 FHC.

So I’ve messed with this (no low beam / high beam go off when bonnet is raised) for 2 days and haven’t figured it out. The good news is the high beam works and I generally don’t drive day or night with the bonnet raised. Other wise everything works fine.

One question - does your high/low beam toggle switch (left of steering wheel) display high beam when the toggle is in the down position and low beam when the toggle switched to the up position? Seems backassward to me. Just wondering.

I tested the female side of the 8 way socket and found nothing (no power) on 1, 2, & 4. I found that #3 was High Headlight, #5 were Side Lights, #6 was Constant Power, #7 was Right Side Turn Flasher Light, and #8 was Left Side Turn Flasher. Does this make sense to y’all?

I haven’t dug into the junction block inside the bonnet but have done a bunch of jiggling of the connector connected and with the bonnet open and closed - no difference observed either way. Am I having fun yet?

Well yes, I am and thanks again for all y’all’s help and suggestions.

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No.

3 should be the low (dip) beam.

2 should be the main (high) beam.

Okay, it does make sense insofar as you have no power at 2 and your low beams do not work.

Again, not as original. Toggle up is main (high) and down is dip (low):

Dip%20Switch

None of this necessarily accounts for your problem (no low beams) but must be kept in mind as you worth through it.

Here is a peek at the wiring block inside the LH head lamp opening where the wires from the plug go next:

Did you check the fuses (1 & 2) with a voltmeter on each side as you worked the dipper switch?

You cannot rely on a visual as poor contact can occur even if the fuse is not blown.

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