It’s a high power relay Frank, I never measured it but the coil draws much more curent than a conventional relay.
Before I did the modification every time I was pulling on the stalk switch I could hear the familiar “tsak” noise from the arcing contacts.
It’s easy to measure the coil resistance, Aristides - purely for academic reasons, of course…
The very thin wires at the stalk contacts implies low current - and burnt stalk contacts are not a common problem…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/UK)
If Aristides says the coil produces arcing it probably does. This wires don’t matter, the relay isn’t powered for more than a second anyways, so they got away with very thin wire.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread, the Hella relay was intended to provide the later XJ with a “modern” stalk-mounted hi-lo headlight switch without actually fitting one. Instead, the existing stalk-mounted high-beam “flasher” momentary switch was used. On my S1 (which has a floor-mounted hi-low toggle switch) the flasher operates the high beams directly without a relay, and its contacts can wear.
This thread has focused on the Hella’s function when the light switch is turned on. Namely, a momentary pulse from the stalk switch toggles between high and low. However, with the headlights off, the Hella emulates the original flash function. The relay can contains “logic” that switches between functions depending on whether the lights are switched on or off. Only a “pulse” from the stalk switch is needed for either function, but the driver can hold the switch down as long as she wants. Doing so can overheat the relay coil that selects high or low when lights are switched on. In daytime “flash” mode, I can’t remember if the highs are flashed via a separate relay within the Hella can, or whether they are flashed directly, no relay as in the S1. If the latter one can imagine some wear on the stalk switch just as can happen in the S1. IMHO.
Neither. There’s a latching mechanism in the hella relay plus a momentary contact. The stalk switch only talks to the coil.
With lights on the relay will latch, with them off it will flash; and when you pull the stalk while the light is on it will momentarily power all 6 filaments so don’t do that for too long.
I will never understand the nonsense of deleting the foot switch. So much better than taking the hand off the wheel and hunting for the stalk. And why they didn’t use a push-pull switch… it didn’t get more ergonomic, at all.
**
I don’t have to take my hand off the wheel, David - my little finger do the walking, and knows where the stalk is for light and signals…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
The foot switch is still a lot better, even if your legs are thin enough that you can put the wheel all the way forward so your pinky can reach the stalk 
When I have the high beams on I rarely need the clutch but sometimes I prefer not to take off my hands or to reposition, think twisty mountain roads in the dark.
To All …
I’m currently checking out the Hella 53/4" headlight H5001 for my inner H1 bulb headlights.
Two add’s state ‘Off road use only’ and one know mention at all.
Can anybody clarify as they have been suggested in an earlier
posting ?
Part #'s
002850001
002425831
002425901
Anybody know the difference ?
Headlamp set up using 4 x H4 Flosser 145W High and 100W low with dedicated fuse panel and relays and a 210A large frame alternator. Good lighting system.
Could it be that you are comparing old 5’s to fresh new 7’s ??
A fresh new set of four 5’sa did wonders in my XJ wuzza 6, Drove it yesterday !!! Day light. but car and i enjoyed the outting immensely…
Carl/
I’ve just changed the inners on my S3 from sealed beam to H1s. First switch on nothing, took one off no current, looked like I’d blown the fuse, changed fuse other light came on. Re-connected the light nothing. Tried a 5A fuse (instead of the 3A) and both lights came on, after about 10 seconds the left started to flicker and both went out.
I thought bad earth and sure enough, left earth was loose, cleaned them both up and still didn’t work - and then checked all fuses I thought had been blowing with a meter and they are all good.
Now I took fuse box out, and there is no current on wire into the fuse with the side light switch on - can’t get my head round what’s going on here?! Could this have broken the headlight switch?
Give us colors and I‘ll try to come up with an explanation. Ah welcome back after 15 years!
Wire colours? And thank you 
It’s ones on the far right of this pic. I’d expect 12v on one side of this when the side lights are switched on. (to check my thinking I pulled the fog light fuse and get 12v on the red/yellow in top/middle)
Wire colors (Google BS-AU7, always helps me a lot, it gives all the colors)
We are looking at the smaller footwell fuse block but your problem is that your inner high beams both flicker, right?
For them you have to look for the blue white wires, the headlight fuse block looks identical but is in the engine bay next to the coolant tank.
Sidelights are entirely separate from the switch on and fog lights do run through the switch, but then there’s some differences depending on what market the car was built for I think.
The outer high beams share a fuse, the inners share a fuse, and left and right dipped beams are separate. So if both inners flicker simultaneously it should be the fuse or fuse box as (I‘m sure you know) those are notorious.
Hi,
AFAIK also Euro spec Ser 2, at least the wiring diagram and reality shows that my XJ6C #2J50041DN has had a Hella relay compatible with the H4’s since it left Browns Lane and still has. Plenty of light IMO. Lucas 7” H4’s and the additional high beams, as usual.
Cheers!
Yes, left footwell, inner headlamps not working at all now. Changing this “side light” fuse initially got one light working, connected two, neither worked
It’s a Japanese car. The first click on the headlamp knob switched on the inner 5&3/4 headlights , hence I thought these were referred to as “side lights” rather than high beam - the outer has H4 hi/low and work fine.
It shouldn’t. The inners are high beam only. How‘s the wiring situation under the hood?
It looks unmolested, and passed an MOT in April. But it was doing weird stuff after I picked it up . Main beam, not high, had all 4 headlamps on, going the next click ti add fogs turned off one of the inners. I thought that might be down to the bad earth I found.
It’s all very odd, and driving me nuts. I only started doing the lights while I wait for a mechanic to come and look at why it struggles to rev past 4000rpm 
Bought a good un obviously 
I‘ll think about it some more.