I don’t believe I’ve ever had a heat shield in place. Didn’t know it existed until this thread. 
Guess I’ll rustle one up
Larry,
If you don’t have that one, maybe you don’t have this one either…
It fits directly behind the transmission mount and shields the muffler heat.
I’m thinking the fellow that replaced the sheet metal during the resto, never gave the originals back. Probably were of little value Other than letting me know they were supposed to be there. Thank you!
I think the heat shields are important. It has been many years since I’ve driven an Etype, but I can tell you in Prescott and Phoenix, AS that was one hot car. I had a '63 then and I’ve a '63 now. Back then it would not boil over when you were on the highway, but going through town was a different story and the heat inside the cockpit was formidable. Even the '68 I drove in “68 was a hot car and its oil would break down at 100 mph in August. Ask me how I know. Oil pressure went to nearly zero!
Anyway, I do have the rear heat shield. The front one is now installed. I thought the rear would be easy. Well…the rivet holes have no relation to the holes in the heat shiled provided by SNGB. So, I am guess the factory guy simply held an undrilled heat shield up there and drilled holes for the rivet. I think on yours David that was the same as witnessed by the multi-holes and some of which are not used? Or am I seeing things?
In my case there are four 3/16” holes in the floor pan, 6 holes in the heat shield. None of which align with the floor pan holes. I can drill new holes and pop rivet it in or I can attempt to drill holes in the heat shield to align with the existing floor pan holes. I don’t know how to do that.
What do you all thinK/
Scot,
I can’'t remember much about installing that heat shield, but I think you are correct that it wasn’t just a case of predrilled holes in the shield and floorpan. I suspect that I just put some self tapping screws through it.
-David
Yeah, that’s what it looks like. I’ll go with the rivets, but I’d rather not drill new holes in the floor pan, and would prefer to do so in the heat shield. It’ll be tricky to drill holes in the heat shield to align with the floor pan. I guess I’ll make a template out of paper and transfer that to the heat shields .
Anyone else have an idea?
Put some putty or butyl caulk or other soft impressionable material, on the bottom side of the heat shield and then push it up against the car. The holes will transfer to the caulk. If the caulk sticks to the car instead, wipe a little oil on it. Much easier than a paper template.
Ahh…I get it. Great idea!! But I’d say the top side of the heat shield, or perhaps the back side of the heat shield. When that is then pressed upwards onto the bottom of the floor pan, it’ll leave those impressions where the floor pan holes reside. Excellent and better than paper template. Thx Bill.
My bad, I should have said top side of heat shield. I have some butyl tape I use for this transfer process. I did it a lot on the interior install so I did not have to drill more holes in the body.
Bill, how to you use the butyl tape? I should think it’d stick ferociously? I had to trim the rear-side edges to fit in between my seat belt reinforcements (I think that’s what they are.). That’s done and I will install the shield today. I had planned to use plumbers putty and spray the bottom of the car with my wife’s cooking non-stick stuff. I only need to put the putty in 4 silver dollar spots to get the impression of the existing holes.
I take a pea sized piece of string caulk (I think it’s butyl based) and press on the side I want it to remain stuck to. Then I wipe some oil on the other side of putty or on the other part and press the pieces together to make the impression. Then I use a center punch through the putty tit to mark the metal. Other variations are possible depending on initial placement of the putty and which side is oiled. I have even been known to use face oil rubbed on a finger when lying under the car…
Perfect! I’m on it! Even have the string caulk. BTW, rolling the ferrule of a fishing rod along side one’s nose provides just the right lubricant so the ferrules don’t stick. Just thought I’d throw that in…
20 characters to be
I know Larry, it makes me throw-up too! But it works great, especially when you’re on the river.
Back to the heat shield. Thanks to Bill Wayman’s advice I took some 3M Strip Caulking, rolled it into 4 50-cent sized balls and squished and flattened
it onto the topside of the heat shield where the holes in the car pan were. Then I spayed some kitchen non-stick onto the bottom of the car so the caulking would not stick to the car but stayed on the heat shield. Lined up the heat shield and pushed quite hard to force the caulking into the old rivet holes.
This then produced 4 little tits in the caulking and once out from under the car, I took a punch and marked the heat shield in the 4 places I wanted rivets that would line up with the factory holes in the pan Then I drilled the holes for the 3/16" rivets. Nice and neat.
I slid back under the car and pop riveted the heat shield to the car pan. The holes were perfectly aligned and they went right in! Here are the final pics of the new heat shields. Recall if you will than my 3.8 has a 4.2 gearbox in it, so this arrangement is like a 4.2 car because of the gearbox.
The large round hole in the aft heat shield has no purpose that I can discern, so I have some wood stove cement (for sealing flue pipes and such) that I will put a bit of aluminum tape, cut to size, in the hole and fill it with the furnace cement. I’ll then cover that patch with another piece of aluminum tape. I’ll show a pic whenever I get that done. Now back to that gas tank so, like Joey, I can butcher my hands some more.
Scot,
Looks like a very neatly done job and thanks for sharing the pics of the steps. Curious though as to why you left the film covering on the outside of the shields vs removing so the shields would also reflect the heat from the exhaust ?
Thanks Jay. I will remove the protective film, but I’m working on so many aspects of the car simultaneously that I’ll leave it on until the last minute. I need to fit the exhaust, etc.