Heat/sound shield

Have used dynamat previously with no complaints. Noico is apparently a comparable product at a fraction of the cost. I know there are several brands Killmat, B-Quiet; do not want to cut quality for a few bucks, however, if I can get it shipped free from Amazon and get what I need, why not?

I know this has been covered in this forum before, but didn’t hear any input on the Noico brand.

I’ve used Killmat in my other car. But these products are mostly for sound, not heat. Many are asphalt based and if they warm up they start to smell. I used Koolmat. It’s not the prettiest looking stuff, but it’s 1/8" of pure silicone which gives much better heat protection. You have to glue it to the car with silicone glue as it isn’t self adhesive.

Edit, I think they actually have precut kits for Jags now. They show a S3 car on the catalog page but I’m sure they have S1 also.

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What I used:


Says it is “closed-cell polyethylene foam with aluminum finish”. Was easy to work with and seems to help with sound and heat though limited experience so far. My only concern (and not a major one) is that someday someone will curse me as they try to remove it.

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I think that’s true of all of them. The asphalt one are a gooey mess, and I have a whole tube of silicone holding mine on.

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I used Eastwood’s Xmat in the E-type. From what I can tell it’s functionally identical to Dynamat for less money.

Then I decided to do sound deadening to our Mazda 6. I had a little Xmat left over and used that along with the Noico product I bought on Amazon. It was significantly cheaper than the Xmat. I noticed no real difference in the product. Application was the same, both stuck to bodywork like a miser sticks to his money and both really quieted the cars.

I’ve no doubt Dynamat is a quality product. From what I can tell, for years it was the only game in town. Now there are many competitors and it’s just possible the premium Dynamat commands is because of it’s reputation.

There are several comparisons on the internet

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I researched Noico and Dynamat along with a few other sound dampening pads. The conclusion I drew was that Dynamat Xtreme was a better product, but not dramatically so.

The Noico dampening effect is said to be a bit less than Dynamat, and a bit more prone to softening due to heat. But I don’t really think softening is a big problem with either unless you put it up next to an exhaust pipe. For sure, the Dynamat Xtreme is made of a butyl-based substance, and I believe the Noico is as well but Noico might have some asphalt in it.

Unless the product has asphalt in it, there’s little chance of it emitting odors when heated, but just in case you can tape the edges off with aluminum tape. That’ll seal it off.

There are several types of materials, and they have different effects.

  1. Dampening or sound deadening pads work because sheet metal can vibrate like a speaker diaphragm and accentuate sound levels. By adding mass to the panel, it combats the vibration thus reducing sound. If using these dampening pads for noise reduction, it isn’t actually necessary to completely coat every square inch of sheet metal - actually as little as 50% of it can get almost the full dampening effect.

Since most people aren’t quite able to figure out what 50% needs to be done, we do more than that, but totally covering the surfaces is not needed unless you want the absolute last fraction of sound reduction.

You’ll notice in modern cars that the door panels usually have a couple of pads of deadening material located in strategic positions even on a heavy luxury SUV, as opposed to covering the panel entirely in damping material.

They have some heat insulation properties, but that isn’t what they’re really great at. That’s where the aluminum sheet helps - it can reflect some heat and maintain integrity of the asphalt\butyl substrate. I wouldn’t get any such pads without the aluminum sheet (you can still buy this stuff without the aluminum backing.)

The liquid coatings like Lizardskin also fall in the dampening category mostly, though they can have some extra insulating effects due to the materials mixed into the liquid.

  1. Sound absorbing materials try to absorb the sound, converting it to heat energy (not enough to be felt, needless to say.) Closed cell foams and fibers are this type of product. These also provide heat insulating effects, much better than the deadening materials or sound barriers alone. Koolmat, the original fiber pads, and stuff that resembles HVAC insulation are in this category.

This is the stuff you want to try to put on every square inch to seal off heat, but because it’s thicker it could pose issues in tight areas like the console under the swing-down instrument/fuse access panel.

  1. Sound barriers try to block sound entirely. These are rarer in cars - the most common material is lead foil. Which is heavy, and usually found only in higher-end luxury cars. But if you want to stop sound entirely, this is the material to use. It is though, complementary to sound deadening so it’s usually employed in select places like the firewall and not on door panels, floors, etc.


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Thank you for that very descriptive answer. The main goal, would be heat reflection with a nice added bonus of sound deadening.

Interesting to note how they tackle this on door panels. A concern was that application of this to the doors would cause issue with the door panel installation. Hopefully there will be others the applied and can confirm the best application for the product on doors.

In my opinion, heat is the enemy of a positive driving experience in an Etype, with noise being a distant secondary consideration. That is why I went with Koolmat. Full disclosure, in return for a discount on materials, I gave them my S1 2+2 patterns. I don’t know if they pre-cut for the 2+2 but they definately offer some precut kits. That said, it is very easy to cut out yourself. Links to several ariticles I did are posted below.
Regarding the doors, I suggest you glue it directly to the inside of the door skin. BTW in that location, heat is not an issue so use a sound deadening product if you wish.

The Porsche article includes some experimental data is took regarding the heat reduction.


Apply the sound deadening/heat shield to the inner surface of the outer door shell. Be sure to leave a couple of inches uncovered on the lower edge so there is no chance of water trapping. The inner door shell should only have a water barrier applied. The finished door panels provide noise reduction/heat blocking there.

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Nicole - I know you are looking especially for comments on Noico, but seem receptive to other input.

Have you considered DEI? while I haven’t used it, others on the list have with positive comments. I bookmarked their products. They don’t make a tunnel shield for Jags (but do or 'Vettes and Triumphs) but their generic tunnel shield may be what you are looking for"



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And now you’ve insulted a fair number of us! :joy::joy:


I certainly resembled Walker’s crack.


Butt how would you know? I always keep my pantaloons hitched up. :smiling_imp: :innocent: :rofl:


I used many types and brands for various Jags.
For the E-Type, I used dynamat Xtreme for most of the floors and interior firewall. But first I put a coating of POR 15 which will help if there are any pin holes and generally make it smoother. Then I use adhesion promoter which will help adhere the insulation of your choice.

In lieu of the under carpet felt(I think they call it jute), I used Dynapad. It’s very heavy and unfortunately quite expensive. However it dampens sound and heat very well.

For the rear hatch area, I also used a combination of Dynamat Xtreme, Noico self adhesive pads that I stuck together(to make them removable.) And also some additional Dynapad to shield sound of fuel pump and around perimeter of spare tyre. No matter what you use, it’s important to use closed cell foam to help deter anything soaking water and/or fuel should you have to change fuel pump.
All of the above immensely helped the sound and heat.
On the undercarriage I did a bit more including exhaust wraps, DEI sound insulation which I screwed to undercarriage, and muffler shield before installing new exhaust.
I promise to write about all of the above in more detail once I assemble the rest of the pictures.

Whatever you decide, there is a LOT of room for improvement when insulating and sound proofing your series 1/2. :cat2::tiger::cat2:

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What with? Yer ponytail?


:+1:t3: :+1:t3: :+1:t3:

That looks great.

Thank you for posting recommendations and pictures.

Yes, for the doors apply deadening material to the inner side of the outer door sheet metal. It’s really the only place you can put it.

I don’t think it needs very much though - no more than a 12"x12" pad, if even that is needed. This is because the sheet metal on a E-type is pretty thick and heavy. It’s not as prone to drumming and vibrating as the thinner metal on newer cars. The doors definitely don’t have a tinny sound when you close them!

I myself didn’t bother with the doors even though I had them apart to replace the glass and winder mechanism because I didn’t think it would make much difference on a roadster. If I had some spare material at hand though I might put some on anyway. Maybe it would be noticeable with the top up (which I rarely do.)

For those with coupes, don’t make the mistake of trying to cover the inner roof surface with sound deadening pads. IMHO, it’s risking a future disaster as the adhesive for that heavy dampening material is subject to temperature stress (and gravity.) It may well fall down due to its own weight. There, I’d definitely use the dampening material only in strategic places, at most 50% coverage.


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The Noico product and a 3M product that resembles the original Flintkote was discussed on this thread:Boot Floor Sound Deadening - #17 by JamesLove

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I was looking through some old pics and now I remember why I didn’t even consider putting in dampening material on the door sheetmetal - there’s little access! It wouldn’t be an easy job even if the glass is out.

Since I did drill out the black water deflector plates to replace the winder, I probably could have managed it, but at that point I didn’t even bother. Many E-types don’t seem to have those plates from what I researched, so that might not be an issue.

I wouldn’t drill out the riveted plates to put in Dynamat or the like unless I was convinced the doors are transmitting a lot of sound.


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I just peeked in my 69 OTS and see there is a sound deadening square on the inside of the door skin - pretty sure it is original.