Heat/sound shield

And now you’ve insulted a fair number of us! :joy::joy:

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I certainly resembled Walker’s crack.

:grimacing:

Butt how would you know? I always keep my pantaloons hitched up. :smiling_imp: :innocent: :rofl:

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I used many types and brands for various Jags.
For the E-Type, I used dynamat Xtreme for most of the floors and interior firewall. But first I put a coating of POR 15 which will help if there are any pin holes and generally make it smoother. Then I use adhesion promoter which will help adhere the insulation of your choice.

In lieu of the under carpet felt(I think they call it jute), I used Dynapad. It’s very heavy and unfortunately quite expensive. However it dampens sound and heat very well.

For the rear hatch area, I also used a combination of Dynamat Xtreme, Noico self adhesive pads that I stuck together(to make them removable.) And also some additional Dynapad to shield sound of fuel pump and around perimeter of spare tyre. No matter what you use, it’s important to use closed cell foam to help deter anything soaking water and/or fuel should you have to change fuel pump.
All of the above immensely helped the sound and heat.
On the undercarriage I did a bit more including exhaust wraps, DEI sound insulation which I screwed to undercarriage, and muffler shield before installing new exhaust.
I promise to write about all of the above in more detail once I assemble the rest of the pictures.

Whatever you decide, there is a LOT of room for improvement when insulating and sound proofing your series 1/2. :cat2::tiger::cat2:

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What with? Yer ponytail?

:grimacing::joy::grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

:+1:t3: :+1:t3: :+1:t3:

That looks great.

Thank you for posting recommendations and pictures.

Yes, for the doors apply deadening material to the inner side of the outer door sheet metal. It’s really the only place you can put it.

I don’t think it needs very much though - no more than a 12"x12" pad, if even that is needed. This is because the sheet metal on a E-type is pretty thick and heavy. It’s not as prone to drumming and vibrating as the thinner metal on newer cars. The doors definitely don’t have a tinny sound when you close them!

I myself didn’t bother with the doors even though I had them apart to replace the glass and winder mechanism because I didn’t think it would make much difference on a roadster. If I had some spare material at hand though I might put some on anyway. Maybe it would be noticeable with the top up (which I rarely do.)

For those with coupes, don’t make the mistake of trying to cover the inner roof surface with sound deadening pads. IMHO, it’s risking a future disaster as the adhesive for that heavy dampening material is subject to temperature stress (and gravity.) It may well fall down due to its own weight. There, I’d definitely use the dampening material only in strategic places, at most 50% coverage.

Dave

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The Noico product and a 3M product that resembles the original Flintkote was discussed on this thread:Boot Floor Sound Deadening - #17 by JamesLove

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I was looking through some old pics and now I remember why I didn’t even consider putting in dampening material on the door sheetmetal - there’s little access! It wouldn’t be an easy job even if the glass is out.

Since I did drill out the black water deflector plates to replace the winder, I probably could have managed it, but at that point I didn’t even bother. Many E-types don’t seem to have those plates from what I researched, so that might not be an issue.

I wouldn’t drill out the riveted plates to put in Dynamat or the like unless I was convinced the doors are transmitting a lot of sound.

Dave

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I just peeked in my 69 OTS and see there is a sound deadening square on the inside of the door skin - pretty sure it is original.

I also seem to recall seeing the original dampening pad as well. It wasn’t as thick as Dynamat!

I’m guessing Jaguar applied the deadening pad earlier in the assembly process - maybe even before they attached the door skin, but for sure before they attached the water deflectors and perhaps the window mechanisms.

If the deflectors are in place I can’t see how one would get a decent sized dampening pad in place, in the right location.

Dave

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You don’t need to put in a single large pad. Multiple smaller pieces abutting one another will work just as well. When you run the roller over them they will all squish into one larger pad.

How would one get a roller in there with the deflectors in place? :slight_smile: I don’t know if you can get a roller in there even if you remove the deflectors, because the winder mechanism takes up a lot of space even with the window up. And the size of the aperture means you can’t roll the roller very far upwards.

But if others have managed it, I have to defer to that…

Dave

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Just to make sure, by deflectors you mean the plastic water shield?

I had room to get mine in there with the window rolled up fully. It’s not as quick or easy as placing the stuff on a flat exposed surface, but it’s not really difficult.

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Ah, no, it’s those black sheetmetal plates riveted over the lower door apertures in the photo I posted. From past threads I got the impression those plates are not common - I seem to recall someone saying they’d never seen a picture of them before.

Dave

Might be me. My 3.8 doesn’t have those or holes for mounting them. I guess they must have added them at some point, for some reason.

Mine didn’t have them and there is no evidence the car ever had them. My old 2+2 didn’t either.

Mine did: they got left out, upon reassembly. Sent them in the boot, when I sold it.

I notice not everyone puts the matting over the wheel wells or on the driver/passenger exit areas.

Also getting good input on covering the wires in the sills with different items mentioned: string cardboard or Masonite or tar paper.

Would you all post up pics of how you dealt with the sill/wire area please?

Thank you.

I ran the insulation up a short ways at the sill stopping short of the wires.

This made the transition a bit smoother as the foam (then vinyl) went over the wires (there is a slight indentation in the sill for the wires).

Before covering the sills I made very sure all wires were working and sound. I also added a cable for a rear camera - haven’t installed it yet, just ordered and laid in a cable while everything was open.

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