What we/I were/was waiting for is further reports on what you found - which you may have posted elsewhere since I haven’t seen it, and no other information has reached me. I assume that no reason for the original problem has been found so far? Hence no comments has seemed relevant…
be sure not to make any more comments till the reason has been found. Please. I beg you 
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But I’m dying to know, Foxy…
Frank
Xj6 85 Sov Europe (UKNZ)
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That explains it, Foxy - I’m not using the Forum…
…but having seen your input there I have nothing useful to add. Except one; parts to be reused should go back where they came from - and should be carefully tracked throughout…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Me too. You’ll be the first to know.
Just need to get 8 more studs out and the 1st head should lift straight off 
Yip.
I’ve been marking everything (apart from the studs)
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Good on ye mate…
Actually the warning is more about moving parts or parts involved with moving parts - with studs it is more to ensure they are the right length for task…
I noticed, on your forum post, that one of the acorn nut domes was “popped”. As a side issue; it is very important that there is ample room between the stud and the dome when acorns are used. If not; torqueing will read the compression of the stud rather than the proper torque, nut against the head. Typical faults are failure to seat the stud in the block, or incorrect stud length sometimes due to the stud stretched under load…
This one reason for installing the head with the studs in place - checking stud height…when time comes…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Well that’s the 1st head off. Doesn’t look pretty inside but I think, rather than rust/water, we’re looking at a mixture of carbon, Redex, ATF & Diesel in varying amounts that’s been chucked down the plug-holes over the years to free it off.
Next step is to take off the 2nd head then either turn the engine or just skip that and take the pistons c/w liners out.
Updates will be in the V12 section
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Definitely evidence of rust in two of the cylinders, Foxy - and before or later you will have to attempt turning the engine…
I’m not on the V12 list…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Hi folks. I’ve not posted on here for some time but in case it’s of any interest the seized engine was no trouble at all to strip down.
I could reach all the big-end cap nuts without moving the crankshaft then 9 of the pistons were tapped out of the liners. The other 3 brought the liners with them and were then separated on a press
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Any indication of heat seizing, Foxy - it is not clealy shown on the pictures…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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I very much doubt it Frank as the engine seized many years after it had been run. More likely to have been from cold/damp. I live in Scotland ffs 
I’ve not checked the liner bores yet but will post pics idc
In extreme casees of hot engine seizing, Foxy, the pistons shows sign of melting and may actually weld to the bores. The bores, being tougher may or may not be scored by the rings. As you say, the cause is more likely the alumium pistons corroding to the bore…
Frank
I should have really kept this thread updated. SO many threads are about a problem but you never hear if it was resolved.
Well am happy to say it was. As shown above the issue with the pistons seized in the liners was relatively easy to deal with but I may have also mentioned that 5 of the head-studs snapped in the block.
Well after about 3 years of trying every potion known to man and direct heat from oxy-acetylene I resolved it by ‘making’ an oven and heating the whole block to around 150C.
It worked very well.
If anyone is interested I can go into more detail but I was truly amazed when they moved
this was the short stud when it came out. left this one till last and got the block up hotter than previous evenings
They say, necessity is the mother of invention… and for a good reason!
Job well done.
Fantastic! Now even vegetarian Jag-Lovers have an excuse to buy a huge barbecue:-)
Great idea, really!
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK Spec)
Glad to see you resolved your problem but I am not sure I understand exactly what you did to remove the stud. Did you weld the nuts onto the stud and find you were still unable to remove it and then heat the block which resulted in you being able to remove the stud?
Basically - yes. 5 of the studs snapped in the block. Even with 4’ or 5’ leverage on them they would just snap again so I heated the whole block and that let them move.
5 of the 20 water-jacket studs sit in deeper parts of the casting. They are buried over 2" into the block.
It’s not the threaded part which causes the issue.
The area above the thread (in the casting) is frozen solid due to corrosion/salts. So much so that when the stud is eventually removed there is a thread in the ‘corrosion’
Thank you.
I was at my wit’s end with it after 3 years of trying to get them out.
I was looking to buy a large industrial oven but that posed problems: cost; 3-phase electric supply required; transportation & also that you would need to get the block out the oven quickly to work on the studs before it cooled (as winter - temp about 1 degree in workshop).
I saw a guy in YouTube who removed dry liners from a motorcycle engine by heating it on his BBQ and that gave me the idea.
Saw an add for the hotplate in small-ads (£130) and thought “it won’t work but got to give it a try”
not a great quality video but this is one being removed after block heated.
video is speeded up
the clicking sound in real life was a loud cracking sound as the studs moved a fraction at a time
