For those with the “coveted” part number manuals, I’m seeking the P/N for the Pozi-drive oval head screw that secure the door striker (BD28111) to the body on a '67 S1.25 2+2. My screws are 5/16-24 X 1". FYI, the screws from SNG are 1/4-24 X 1.125.
Thanks for the reply. It does look like the same screw, even though SNG list it as for a door hinge screw?. I’m going to call them on it. We’ll see…
Well, another wrinkle…while the description states for use in door hinges, I looked at mine and and the hinges are have hex headed bolts, all of them. My donor hinges are drilled for oval head Pozi Drive as I’ve mentioned above. This difference together with others I’ve noticed in the past, make my Jag even more difficult to shop for.
From the parts book and the Martin Robey web site I’ve come to the conclusion that the 4 bolts that attach the hinge to the door (BD17034/5) have hex heads, but have a section under the head designed to fit in a countersunk hole in the hinge. They do not have washers. The 4 bolts that attach the hinge to the body (BD13565/3) have hex heads with no countersink section, and are installed with spring washers (no countersunk hole in the hinge). These part numbers are for the OTS and FHC - I don’t have anything for the 2+2, so I can’t be sure that they are the same.
Thanks David. Interesting they would have the drillings for countersunk, yet install hex head bolts. Your description fits my situation perfectly. This causes one to think, they may have had a design changes or using left over parts? My 2+2 being a June 67 build Series 1.25 is “late in the game” compared to a full Series 1 build.
Just surmising. editing to add…
Agree the door hinge to body is a hex head. The original ones have a tapered tip. Here is from the parts book.
Ken, my plausibly imperfect recollection (i.e. brain fade) of my 67 2+2 is that the door hinges used hex head bolts on both faces of the hinge. I can’t recall if any had a countersink section on the underside of the head. Personally, I wouldn’t want to use Pozidrive in this application, as you spend a lot of time tightening and loosening these bolts as you adjust the door fit. And then once you get a good fit, you really crank the bolts down tight to keep things from shiifting position.
Yeah Harvey, based on the magnitude of the adjustments and from watching Chuck Hadley’s rendition of door adjusting, sends “Bee-Jee-Bees” down my spine. LOL!
I do plan on getting 4 new 5/16-24s from SNG to replace the ones used in the door striker. BTW, I got a Pozi-Drive #4 bit that fits these screws perfectly. The #3 is dangereously small.
Perhaps the idea was: The countersink precisely centers the bolt in the hole, and the hex head allows it to be tightened to the high torque value required of the application. These “special” bolts were, no doubt, expensive to manufacture, so the penny counters would have substituted plain hex head bolts if they could…
I believe the 1/4" UNF screw(s) you seek were originally BD21509/7 replaced by BD17821/7. They are available from SNG and probably others.
The information obtained from an original S2 Parts book. That part was standard over the production of the E-type I believe.
Hope this helps,
P.S. Does your parts book have illustrated drawings after each major section? If you would like a copy of my S2 book (with illustrations) PM or email OV1pilot@aol.com Cheers…
And Ken, you really need to get the parts book. Readily available and will help you immensely. Mine is as nearly as grease stains as my workshop manual.
I’m not seeking the “1/4” version, I’m seeking the 5/16-24 X 1” version. It appears SNG has them labeled as 8156, if I recall correctly. I’m on a job, taking a break from the heat, and my notes are in the shop.
Thanks for chiming in on this mystery.
I’d guess that’s exactly why they were used.
Ken, the part numbers for the door hinge bolts in my 2+2 SPC are basically the same as in the SPC for my 3.8.
Hinge to body
2+2 BD 13565/5
3.8 BD 13565/3
Hinge to door
2+2 BD 17034/5
3.8 BD 17034/5
The hinge for my 3.8 car is in my hand. The holes for the attachment to the body are countersunk.
The holes for the attachment to the door are not countersunk.
The captive nuts in the body are 5/16-24 (UNF)
Interesting Harvey, my donor hinge to the door is countersunk, hinge to the body is not. It has been claimed these hinges are BD27680/1. I’ll plan on using my OEM bolts, if they all survive the dismantle. It’s is a mystery though?
OK, I just checked. My bad. Yes, the hinge holes to the door are countersunk, as you say.
As to why they are countersunk is a mystery to me. The underlying holes are only oversize (above 5/16") by 1/64" to 1/32", ie.not really a sloppy fit. And the thickness of the hinge is substantial, like 3/8". I know sometimes in thin metals you use a countersink to increase the bearing area. Personally, if you don’t have the countersunk hex bolts, I would think you could use a regular hex bolt and a washer and do just fine.
I agree. It makes you wonder what the thinking was in the design room for the countersinks. Maybe these hinges have interchanges in their history. At any rate, going to go with what I have, I will order new screws for the door latch/striker. I sent SNG tech an email about the 1/4-24 screws they sent, I ordered, based on their catalogue verbiage. They are nice chrome ones too. I can use them in another project, no doubt.
The posi-drive oval head screws, chromed, are a little hard to find. In stainless, which can be polished, they are a little more common. As noted above in this thread, hex bolts with a countersink under the head, are a rare beast.
This is the 2nd or 3rd time you’ve mentioned a 1/4-24 screw, but that is not a standard size. 1/4" UNC is 20 TPI, and 1/4" UNF is 28 TPI. Both 5/16" and 3/8" UNF are 24 TPI. Did SNG really send you a 1/4"-24 screw?