Hi everyone just wanted to introduce myself

Hi everyone I have been lurking and reading in the background but it’s time to introduce myself. My name is Jeff and I have a lifelong project I am going to try and tackle! I have a 65 S1 4.2 convertible that has been in my family since long before I was born. I have had the car for 10 years but haven’t done anything to it as I am scared that I would devalue it but every time I drove it something broke and left me stranded so I feel like I’m ready to make a few repairs to it just to get it useable. I live in Montana and my long term goal is to get it road worthy enough to drive it over the going to the sun road in glacier national park which is only about a 500 mile round trip adventure but currently I can’t make it 5 miles out of town! I want it to be able to make the trip but still feel like it was supposed to feel originally if that makes sense. Currently only the handbrake works so I ordered a new master, braided lines, a wilwood disk brake conversion kit and rear vented rotors. I did also ad an electric fan a few years ago and replaced most of the hoses as one burst and had to be replaced. Also had to put a new voltage regulator on it as it quit charging the last time I drove it and died a ways from home. I’m hoping all of you can guide me as to what you think I should do and what parts etc to use. I’ve kept all the original parts I’ve taken off so far and will continue to do so as I go! I’ve been reading gt joeys rebuild so far and am definitely not trying to go that far but it’s been inspirational for sure! Can’t wait to get to work on this! Thanks in advance for all the help!!

Sorry could only put one pic since I’m new but here is a n outside shot. The car has been repainted and unfortunately they didn’t do a great job but it looks good from 20 feet. Also as far as I know it is a 1965 series 1 but want to verify with all of you that that info is correct. Thanks again guys!


Welcome Jeff,
There are quite a few JL folks in Montana so you may find out you live close to some of them, or perhaps one of them which would be handy. The upgrades your considering are nice but the stock set up is more than adequate if done correctly, JM2CW.
But again welcome to the forum and good luck with your project.

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Thanks Llynn! As far as the brakes go I may just replace the mc initially and see if I need to go any further. I just know the brakes have not worked for a long time so I assume the worst but hope for the best.

The car number, 1E10976, is consistent with 1965, Series1, OTS.

(There is a 1E10973 on xkedata.com and it is said to be a '65 with a build date of 23 April, 1965)

Thanks Liam! Always good to at least know I’m starting in the right place!

Assume that you have some or all brake caliper pistons seized. Consider it good luck if you don’t, and not a curse if you do.

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I have done a fair amount of caliper cleaning and repair in my road race days so shouldn’t be a disaster if they are. Will tear into them sometime soon and see what I find! My girlfriend loves it when I have things to wash in her sink! :joy:

Hi and welcome. You mentioned that you replaced the hose set. I hope you just put the original type rubber hoses on instead of the Kevlar ones. The Kevlars are a waste of money since all hoses degrade or destroy themselves from the inside. Kevlar is fine if you’re protecting your hoses from bullets. Otherwise they’re rubber based as all the rest of them. Lots of Pros and Cons here at J-L.

In short, I ('66 FHC) and many others have done almost all the things on a SI XKE that can be done and some of it is written up in the archives along with what the best values are and what aren’t worth it. Consult the archives and ask many questions of us and await the torrent of information. We’ve all been there none of us having been born with any knowledge of cars or Jaguars or XKEs in particular.

Read everything “HOW TO” you can get your hands on. There’s nothing like knowing what you’re getting into before you dive in.

IMPORTANT. Don’t be scared. There is almost nothing that you can do that can’t be undone or redone correctly. You’ve waited this long so a few setbacks or hiccups won’t be any big deal. There are more than a few folks who, when they began their resto project, didn’t have even the knowledge you have.

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Welcome Jeff,
You have definitely come to the right place as there are some very smart, friendly and knowledgeable folks to help you move forward. I am half way through a full restoration and could not have got this far without this forums help. Best thing is that as you learn you start giving that knowledge back to others.

Enjoy the car and and the process of getting it running reliably.


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Welcome! I have been to Waterton National and Glacier National Parks and they are beautiful!

My suggestion to increase reliability are as follows

  1. Rebuild fuel pump and fuel filter. Blow out fuel line from trunk to carbs. Clean fuel tank sump filter.
  2. Clean carb dashpots and clean the float bowls
  3. Install all new cooling system hoses and pressure test
  4. Flush brake fluid and replace or rebuild the Master and servo and replace the brake hoses
  5. Change engine oil/filter, transmission oil and differential oil
  6. Replace ignition coil and tune up engine with new points and condensor
  7. Replace belt driving the alternator and water pump
  8. Replace water pump if age warrants
    Well that’s a start! If you want to discuss details of how to do any of these, do private message me and we can talk off line
    Dennis 69 OTS

I would just add one to Dennis’s list:

  1. Resist the temptation to “upgrade” stuff without good cause. The car can be made very reliable by simply fixing what is wrong with the original components. Every time you add an “upgrade” you potentially introduce new problems, and make it very difficult for others to help you, as they are familiar with the car as originally designed, and not necessarily with the particular combination of “upgrades” you’ve installed. Most of the intractable problems discussed on this forum have turned out to be due to an owner “upgrading” the system (particularly the electrical system) and then not documenting what they did.
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Thank you all so much! Just knowing I have a place to come ask questions gives me the confidence to tackle this project! Dennismo I appreciate the list and it makes me realize I’m on the right track! I have What I believe I will need for the first 6 or so things on the list so I am going to follow them up with the last items and ask all the questions along the way! What do you all recommend for tranny fluid and rear dif fluid? Sounds like valvoline vr1 10w30 is a popular choice for engine oil. Any opposing thoughts there?

No on the oil stay with 20W50.

Ok sounds good thanks Robin

That’s awesome that you’ve got a pretty nice E-type with a long family history. That makes it worth the effort to get it going above and beyond strict financial value, and I wish you great success!

I’ve done a similar thing in fixing up various items to make my E-type a reliable driver for long trips. The advice of items to address, already given, is good. Safety first (brakes and steering) then fuel and electrical.

Use the old formula for iterative driving - get it to drive 5 miles at a time reliably, then 25, then 125, then 500, and you’ll be there. The stuff that might leave you stranded mostly will show up in the short drive cycle, and then the stuff on longer drives likely will be things you can address when you head back to home base. It’s just debugging all the old creaks and pains from a half-century on the sidelines.

Possibly the major bugaboo that’s hard to deal with are shoddy or inaccurate replacement parts. Thus, when buying significant components, do some research and/or ask around, like on this forum, for opinions.

Personally, I think the 10w/30 oil is fine. Jaguar’s own owner’s handbook in the 60’s approved this viscosity (even a 5w/20!) so with modern oil technology it is even more appropriate. Especially in colder climates, though oil consumption may be a bit higher. If you head to the desert areas then the heavier oils might be preferable.


Welcome, beautiful car
Add another chore
10- ck and clean up all electrical connections and ground wires.
Be suspect of all relays due to cars age

Welcome to the group. The J-L site is active and for the most part great and it will give you differing opinions on subjects and you can use your good sense the tell the difference.
I assume the picture of your car is taken in your garage, if so it looks to me that you also have a Packard 50 or 51 behind it, if so good luck with both.

Regards, Joel.

Welcome to the Loon-E bin!

We look forward to your continued reports… and Ive always wanted to see you, live…:wink:

The shop is another story in itself. I have always wanted one and 2 years ago decided I was going to build one. Similar to the etype world I knew enough to get myself in trouble and that was about it but am just about done building it! Will revolt that down the road though! The car behind is a 52 packard patrician 400 and a monster of a car next to the etype! That project will be for down the road as well but ran 30 years ago and has been in a shop warm ever since. The loon-e bin sounds like a place I can fit in thanks guys! Also I just drained the tank, cleaned the screen, drained the lines, and rebuilt (for lack of a better word since I just changed gaskets and the float chamber parts) and cleaned up the points and it runs! I didn’t run it long as I want to change the fluids first but what an exciting day!! Min those carb bolts sure are fun :flushed:. Not!

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