Can you provide pictures of the subject car. Look through blogs at Monocoque Metalworks by Chuck Hadley. Most restorations he sees require lots of metal work from the doors down. I would have an expert investigate to verify otherwise. Mechanical work other than a full engine rebuild is affordable. A driver quality car is easily worth $50k.
Best wishes
Remember the old addage, “if the top goes down, the price goes up”! Most anything mechanical can be fixed reasonably but if there is rust in the body, especially along the sills then you are looking at spending some big bucks for metal replacement.
As has been said, hire a pro to take a look and give you an accurate appraisal, then decide what to offer.
Good question. I’ll find out.
I don’t have any good close-ups other than the battery box area which has some nasty
acid-looking corrosion
.(I see what they mean by the algorithm flipping the photos)
if you want it , use the Mecum auctions new method…offer a buy it now price that is good…now. (Mecum is now sometimes using an Offer this…and the hammer drops…no other bids accepted…a buy it now bid.)
Nick
OMG! The cancer looks horrible, and likely runs deep into the sill. Even worse upside down!
I would argue that The rust behind the battery box doesn’t look too bad. You’d have to sandblast it to find out if you went through it or not. But I’ve always lived in salt country so I may have a different reference point.
is this better
And while I’m here, here are things to rectify/inspect before putting the Jag on the road –listed with safety issues first
Things to rectify/inspect before putting the Jag on the road –listed with safety issues first
- Fuel
- Carbs
- Tank
- Pump
- Lines/Filter
- Rubber/
- Tires
- Body seals/gaskets
- Engine Hoses
- Brakes/Clutch
- Master cylinders
- Slave cylinders
- Calipers
- Steel / rubber Lines
- Hydraulic Bottles / Lines
- Clutch disc – slippage/stuck
- Electrical
- Battery
- Wiring Harnesses – Condition
- Wiring Harnesses – Grounds
- Alternator
- Starter
- Ignition
- Gauges
- Wiper Motor
- Horns
- Lights/Lamps
- Engine
- Compression Test
- Leaks: oil/water/gas/trans fluid/hydraulic fluid
- All components present
4 Likes
Take a look at the collection of decrepit E Types at https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/ and discount their price by 33% and it will give you an idea of what these cars are worth in barn find condition.
2 Likes
This site kills me. It’s the 2022 version of Cal Worthington or Ralph Williams Used Cars. Here’s a Snagglepuss if I’ve ever seen one. Gimme two!
3 Likes
See if you can find a copy of the book that is an Etype buyers guide. I know it has much good detail. Failing that, do a Google search " E type buyers guide " Tons of great sites came up. (Couldn’t get the link to copy over here)
At 140,000 miles, the engine is no doubt at a point where it needs rebuilding, as well as the trans. 4 years ago,I had my 69 S2 ’ s 98, 000 mile engine and trans rebuilt @ $18K. Get access to a catalog and assess the prices for common maintenance and repair items, interior? Glass? Brakes? How much work are you confident doing and what would you have to job out. Do the gauges work? Lighting and switches and other powered items? Not to say any of these would deter the purchase, but to help you get an idea of what you are getting in to. The list Craig Balzer put up is excellent. While the idea of buying this one appears attractive, the point made about buying it and dumping big bucks for repair VS buying one that’s ready to go is worth more than a quick thought. Welcome and keep us posted, there are MANY great minds with much experience here to help you.
2 Likes
Thanks for your notes, especially for the book recommendation.
I found it on Amazon and ordered a copy.
I am encouraged that the owners were wealthy and maintained this car throughout its life.
But it seems like every old vehicle I buy ends up needing its engine rebuilt. My current
project is a '63 LandCruiser that was already on it’s second block when I pulled it out.
At least here in L.A. there are talented people to give advice and do the machine work.
One shop I went to was rebuilding a V-12 Jag engine among other classics.
I am more concerned with finding out if it will need body work. Let’s hope not. 
A 292 Chevy engine would do it good…
1 Like
Them’s fighting words! 
Besides, nowadays it has to be an LS!
1 Like
I seem to remember that the 60’s and 70’s chevy engines were direct bolt in’s for the land cruisers. Is that correct?
Not a direct bolt-in but the adapters were cheap (and still are).
1 Like
I’d never use a V8 in a Land Loser: the 292 gives the kind of massive, low-end grunt required.
Though I’m sure there have been lots of 6-cyl Chevys transplanted into LCs, I’ve never
actually seen one. The gearing on the LCs is low enough that the small block V8’s can
manage any terrain nicely. For truly bad work there is even lower gearing available.
That said, I wouldn’t swap out the original engine, it just wouldn’t be a LandCruiser anymore.
A Jag XK would look nice in it…
Back in the day, I did a few transplants onto LLs, and by far, the most manageable, offroading, was the GMC/Chevy 292.
1 Like
My solution, back in the day, was a Holley 350 CFM 2-bbl and tube header on the existing mill.
That really improved both low end and high end performance on the '70 FJ40 I had in the 70’s…
For some reason the Holley swap isn’t common any more so my '63 has a Weber + header on it.
1 Like