So I finally got to work on my XJS again and decided to pull the neutral switch/selector sensor off the trans. Needless to say, I found out I really need a lower jack! Lol! I finally got under it and took it off. I took it in my barn and, after making a little room on the workbench, started disassembling it. It was different than the one video i saw online, but still the same basic principles. I started checking continuity of the 7 wires and they checked out ok. Then I went wire by wire checking the plates for continuity. I hit the one wire and it didn’t connect to any of the pads. Looking at it, i had noticed a shiney spot on the printed circuit, looking closer I saw that it was actually severed. I tried touching the end closest to the pads and checked continuity again. On the top bar it rang out on the far right one and then the third one over! My brain said “thats gotta be park and neutral!” I tried to solder the two ends together, but they kept breaking. Drrrrrr! Looks like Ill be looking for a “new” one!
So has anyone tried to rig in a different more redily availible manufacturer/vehicle range sensor? I am still astounded at the seemingly complete lack of aftermarket parts for Jags!
Don’t despair Jason, easily fixable.
Very difficult, usually impossible, to solder across such a gap.
Take a piece of multi stand wire and extract a small piece of one strand.
Use that to bridge the gap.
That is easily solderable.
if you suspect the current is more than about 0.25A, you put a few more strands in parallel to increase current capacity.
You might have to scrape off some more green solder resist with a scalpel or similar
first.
That item is a sloppy manufacture with all the old resin around the wire terminations.
In a good factory you clean that off with a solvent just in case the resin is corrosive.
Bit of a puzzle why that circuit trace had a break, does not look like that circuit trace has been too hot. Could be an accidental impact sometime almost cut thru it and it was hanging by a thread.
Awesome! I know what I’m trying later! Yeah it makes you wonder how long it was exposed before it broke. Should I put glue over the wire afterwards?
What is that? I don’t recognize it.
Its the inside of the neutral/range selector switch! I jumpered the connection and went to the car. I figured Id be happy with a click when I turned the key. I just plugged it in up top since its too late to crawl around underneath it, and if it didn’t work I wouldn’t have to crawl back under to take it apart again. Lol. I hooked up the battery and hit the switch and…IT TURNED OVER! IT DIDN’T START, BUT IT TURNED OVER WITH THE KEY! WOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO! I will say it turned slowly, but the battery may be deadish from sitting. The PO said it was about a year old, but who knows. If it wasn’t for the fact that Id have to leave an extension cord outside, and they are calling for rain, Id hook up the charger on low and let it soak charge. THAT MUCH CLOSER! Yipeeeee! I do plan on adding another ground strap tomorrow just to have it, but we’ll see!
That’s a really neat repair tip - I know just where I will try it to fix a trace break on mine.
F
I actually used about half the threads from about a 24 gauge wire, twisted them, and put solder on both ends first. Then i bent it and was able to hold it in place with some needle nose. It went much better when i remembered that I had bought a newer soldering iron! Smh. I really should throw out my old one! Lol
I usually use the snipped off ends of component leads for fixing broken traces. They’re pre tinned, and quite easy to bend suitably to follow a trace. Regardless of how carefully I try to clean up when I make a circuit, there’s usually a few of them laying about in my toolbox or bench drawer.
My dad even suggested using a sliver of a soda can.
It’ll have to be a very old soda can for that to work, I think they’re all made of Al since about 30 years or so.
I gathered that before. But on my '83, the neutral switch was a roller microswitch in the console. No excursion under the car necessary.
Sorry I just read my reply lol, it wasn’t meant to sound course. Yeah on my 93 its bolted to the drivers side of the trans and then the one connector goes to the trans (Im thinking speed sensor?) And then they go up through the drivers floorboard and connect behind the floor vent.
If there is a lady in your life, you can borrow her nail varnish remover.
That is mostly acetone and that will remove the resin flux from your repair.
You might want to get rid of that resin around the wire terminations too.
Acetone is one of the strongest organic solvents, and can mess up plastic items.
Generally safe on printed circuit boards.
if you want to be really good cover the soldered area with electrical varnish.
You might not have that, but really any decent auto type paint or even nail varnish will protect it. Without that finishing touch it will still last 20 years or so.
Went out and did a quick vid trying to start it and then hooking up the alarm to show what it does with the alarm hooked up too. Does it seem like its spinning fast enough? Sorry it is still torn apart inside from the PO. Anyone notice anything that should be happening that isnt, apart from it not starting?