How are fuel lines soldered?

I’m asking here because a previous owner lopped off a nipple and then kinked the section of pipe that connects to a brass T fitting which in turn has the two pipes that go to each carburetor. I tried heating it up with MAPP gas but that had no effect other than discoloring what was left of the nickel plating on the T and adjoining piping. I’m thinking it’s silver soldered or perhaps brazed? Anyone here worked on these before? I’ll be replacing the bad section with cunifer pipe. Thanks.

MAPP gas works fine for silver soldering, I use it all the time. If you’re not getting it loose you’re not hot enough - or it’s brazed requiring a hotter temp.

Just remember to ask, “How did they do it, and why?” Was lead or silver solder good/not good enough, or did they allow a manufacturer to select his method based on their processes already on-hand?

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Common plumbing solder is good for at least 100 psi, 20 times the fuel line pressure, but I have no idea if it is affected by gasoline. The solder you buy now (in the US) will be lead free.

Just had the same problem on my Mk9. The pipes weren’t soldered they were brazed.

Yes, I’m thinking this was brazed as MAPP gas should have gotten this plenty hot and I had the flame on it for quite some time. The yellow-ness color of the brazed area could have been hidden by the old nickel plating that was still on that area. I’ll pass a file over it to confirm. If the pipe section still doesn’t come off I might just cut off the remainder flush with the T, drill out what remains of the copper pipe inside, then silver solder or braze in a new length with nipple at the end. I’m not worried as much about vibration here as a flexible line connects to the nipple.

Solutions abound.

I had a fuel filter that I wanted to install on the TC Special, but could NOT find a fitting to get to the fuel lines I needed to use to fit up Soooo, I made my own fittings.

Half of one, half of another silver-soldered butt-to-butt after cutting the threads off. Simple once you think about it, much easier than the search for the impossible to find fittings.

Look at the hexagon.

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Here’s the offending part. The cut and kinked section on the right is actually brazed in so that would explain why MAPP gas wouldn’t heat it sufficiently. The T appears to be steel but a check with a magnet tells me it’s non-ferrous so, something else. Mitchell, I have no shortage of BSP taps, dies, appropriate fittings and a lathe that stands ready so that’s an idea – thanks. Otherwise I may dust off the oxygen and acetylene tanks and dig out the hoses and regulators for something with a little more oomph to extract the old pipe. Too bad I lack a rosette tip at present. Anyway, for someone who has ready access to their car, can you tell me what the close distance is between the end of the nipple to where the pipe enters into the T section? Your close guess will do. Thanks.

Is this it?

Be careful with the oxy/acetylene. Here is what happened when I tried it on a similar tee with a damaged banjo, it melted and fizzled the tee. The tee is cast brass, somewhat porous or granular as castings always are, and the depth of the socket is about 1/2".

Yes, that’s it. Some 4.5" in length at a minimum from your picture. Thank you Mitchell. Much appreciated.

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Yikes. Thank you for that, Rob. I’m now thinking I’ll cut it flush with the T end, carefully drill out what’s still inside, then silver solder it instead of possibly ruining it by brazing it – something I never really got the hang of.

This was missing on my car. I bought a second hand Jaguar pipe , I don’t know what it was off but it looked to be an original part . I dissembled it and it was lead soldered ! I know in the UK that gas pipe on camper vans use compression fittings as lead joints are not good enough to withstand vibration.

All my Healey and TR fuel line connectors were lead soldered, never had any problems. I used ordinary Savbit or similar - just bought some new for soldering electrical connections. Easy enough to still get it with lead here in the UK.
Haven’t done the Jag one yet as I’m still in the depths of body repairs.

Leaded solder is still available at the usuals in the US. Lead free is generally used for plumbing, but contains antimony IIRC. How safe is that?