It has to be a plain nut without the nyloc.
no, the sandpaper strip is wrapped about the thread, and gripped very tightly first with thin multigrips…the grit-paper aids grip, to stop the turning, and protects the thread being damaged…it really helps to have an assistant squeeze the multigrips.
Once the nyloc is threaded on far enough that thread protrudes thru the nut, there will not be enough space behind the nut for a gripping tool.
at that point, grip the protruding thread with sandpaper and locking pliers
this provides a LOT of resistance to turning, if you can get the tools in and grip tight enough
I understand, I used a plain nut, but then when I backed that off and tried the new nylock it spun again.
Ah I understand now Tony. I considered something like this as I have some small curved vice grips but I didn’t want to damage the threads. I guess wrapping them would afford some protection though.
Late to the thread: never had many issues by just using a rattle wrench: sometimes, Id have to utilize some pressure on the taper, but, rarely.
Another thing you can do is hacksaw through one side of a plain nut, and clean the burrs off. Then you can thread the slotted nut onto the thread, and clamp it with vice grips. This way you know you won’t damage the threads, but you’ll get a good grip.
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Age strikes again: had completely forgotten that trick!!!
That sounds slick Andrew. But I assume it’s only of use once you get the nyloc on most of the way so threads are showing on the bottom? If you threaded the spit nut on first it would be in the way, or are you supposed to somehow pry it off to get it out of the way?
I used one of these to clamp them together.
Mark
I’ve never had that problem. Are the taper surfaces free of any lube or anti seize? Anything like that will defeat the locking function of the tapers. I would put a little loctite on the tapered surfaces, torque it up tight with the plain nut and let it sit overnight .
Marv James
It’s just a generic way of holding a threaded part. In your case you could cut right through it. This would still give you a clamping block with maximized surface area. I’ll admit I kind of shuddered at the mental image of threads, sandpaper, and vice grips.
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One could also try cutting a slot in the end of the threaded stud, and then hold the stud with a screw driver while tightening the nut.
Tom
Guys, before you start cutting the threaded stud, just try my ratcheting hold down straps with a ~$40 HF electric impact wrench. Just ratchet up the straps, then hit it with the impact wrench and it tightens in about 2 seconds.
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I just put new ball joints in my '63 coup.
Several small pieces of wood and a couple of C clamps squeezed the tapered parts together enough for them to be tightened. worked fine.
Same thing I did a couple of weeks ago, with the strap, that is. And even then I had a jack under the lower ball joint and had to smack the upper A-arm with a non-marring dead blow hammer to seat the taper enough to stop it from spinning.
Another hint is to use a non-nylock nut to seat the thing and then remove that nut and finish the job with a nylock. Sometimes a nylock grabs the threaded pin and spins it before the taper is seated, using the regular nut first prevents that.
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That’s the ticket I always found to work.
Mostly an impact wrench will be able to tighten the nut a little at the beginning of every stroke before the “bolt and ball” start spinning and thus tighten the nut for you to torque it to spec.
As mentioned by John & Wiggles, using a regular nut and an impact wrench will certainly do it, if the nyloc binds on the thread.