How can we lock the boot of the Mark V in the attached photo?


Please teach me how I can lock the boot of my Mark V in the attached photo.

Kind regards

Unfortunately the locking arrangement is far from secure. When you turn the key a small square bolt is wound down from the handle into the square hole on the fixed keeper part. A determined thief can easily pull the handle upwards and disengage the bolt from the keeper.



Sure, and although it may be obvious to some, the lock barrel in facing down, it is at the end of the handle and it can be turned 180 degrees with the key, so then the square thing will protrude from the handle to lock it to the base.

I don’t believe many common thieves would figure out that you could just pull the whole handle up. At least mine is so tight that it’s hard to get out.

BTW do you have an Operating & Maintenace Handbook for the MKV like this one:

It might be a good idea to get one, or get a repro from somewhere as there are lots of things that are not obvious either! Like how the interior light switch, and various other non-marked switches on the dash are supposed to operate,

I always enjoy (now only every four years for cars this old) the regular MOT inspection when the inspector looks all puzzled and asks me how can one operate the fog lights, the windscreen wiper, etc. :smiley:

The good part is they usually then forget if there are any small details, that might not be 100% operational. :slight_smile:


Normally the lock is the handle, which usually takes a key with the code FNR and some numbers.

You appear to have an extra lock added.

The lock and handle can be taken off as one piece by removing the rear nuts (accessed behind the boot inner trim).

The actual lock can be accessed at the end of the handle.

You can then remove the lock itself by releasing the small grub screw.
2017 4 22 (22)

The lock on my car was completely stuck and the key would not turn - but cleaning it with some penetrating oil after I had taken it apart has freed it up OK.

You see the numbers on David’s lock tumbler. If you find similar numbers on your tumbler, that is the FNR code number. There are several places that can make you a key using that number.
Pete Groh in Maryland is one,
and Triple-C is another.

Dear ptelivuo,

Thank you for the advice. And I have also a book which appears almost the same, but the color of the cover is not blue, but green.

Kind regards

Dear goodoldgrandad,

Thank you. Your information is very usefulu for me.

Kind regards

The Operating and Maintenance Handbook was published over time in about 5 versions. Blue and green covers were printed. Copies by other printers also come in black.

Indeed, their were EIGHT different issues of the Mark V Handbook…

  1. 15/3/49 dated, with GREEN cover, and covers Saloon only…
  2. 8/1/50 dated, now and all later issues with BLUE cover, and amongst a number of other updates, also now covers DHC as well as Saloon.
  3. 6/7/50 dated (as in 6th July for American readers), BLUE cover, virtually unchanged from issue 2 of 8/1/50, adding only an Addendum on front Newton Shockabsorbers…
  4. 6/2/51 dated, still BLUE cover and most unlikely to have actually been supplied with a new Mark V unless maybe the very very last DHCs and again virtually unchanged from 3rd issue, albeit it should be noted that there was also an 8-page 1949-50 Supplementary booklet that can be found with the 2nd, 3rd and 4th issues that fully update them…
  5. RP/1 19-2-53 noting the RP/1 denotes being the first factory reprint, so available as a spare part/replacement handbook, rather than ever being supplied with any new Mark V, still BLUE cover and indeed all the contents of the Supplementary booklet are now incorporated within the main Handbook.

6-7-8. These are additional later factory reprints to maintain a supply of spare/replacement handbooks and are identified by having R/P2 (and no date, but after January 1956 given title page now shows Sir William Lyons), then R.P.3 and a final R.P.3 but now on face page no price nor listing of directors, so dates from 1970s. These last three have no change in technical content relative the 19-2-53 issue, and indeed are usually found in superior condition, given they were sold new as a spare part and not actually issued/used with a new car…

So for practical purposes best to look for the later issues RP/1 19-2-53, R/P2 or R.P.2 - all BLUE covers, or if you want something correct/authentic for your own particular Mark V go by the earlier issues that are dated, noting need for the extra Supplement…, albeit the first 15-3-49 dated GREEN covered issue only suits the earliest Saloons and not DHC of course…

Hi Roger, thanks for the great details on the variations of the Mark V handbooks.

On a blue 6/7/50 handbook I bought second-hand, there is the Addendum on front Newton Shock Absorbers you mention, this is on page 24 as a glued-in patch on an otherwise blank page. Also on the inside front cover are similar glued-in patches for Front Brake Air Scoops and also for Throttle Restrictor. There also is a four page (i.e., it is a single paper folded in half with front without enumeration and the other pages marked 2,3,4. It is not 8 pages) Supplement to Jaguar Operating and Maintenance Handbook that is inserted into front of the handbook. I don’t know when the addenda were glued to the inside front page or when the four page supplement was added, but they all came to me in the single second-hand purchase.

The RP/2 I have is green in cover with a front title plate glued on the front cover.

The R.P…3 (note it does not read RP/3) has black cover and smooth front cover, not glued on front plate. While this says “Printed in England by Adams Bros. & Shardlaw Ltd.” it may be a photocopy type of reproduction?

R.P.3, not R.P…3. Please excuse my typographical error.

Hello Jaguarer, may I offer to share with you portable document files (pdf) of the Mark V service manual and parts catalogue? Even though American English is my first language I still have trouble with British English and find the parts catalogue pictures and parts number terms to be very specific to help me.

If you can rotate the barrel very slightly in either direction then you probably have the wrong key. If the barrel won’t turn even a small amount then it is seized in the handle. Either way you will need to remove the barrel from the handle. As in Rob’s photos and description you need to remove the small grub screw in order to remove the barrel.