I took off the exhaust valve cover off and took pictures. Not sure if they are raised up or in the correct position. They all appear to be at the same height.
If the cam lobe doesn’t hit them I’d say they’re fine.
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As Andrew has stated, and just by the looks of them in the head, they all look like they’re in the proper position.
Yep, looks good, believe me, you will know when one comes loose. JS
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Thanks guys for helping out, much appreciated. So I guess my loud tapping is from something else.
I assume you’ve checked all the tappet clearances? I see you have the Series 1 cam profile- if clearances are off just a little it can get very noisy.
I checked a couple and they were at .007. When I ran the car with the valve cover off, very messy, it didn’t seem like it was coming from the valve train but more from the timing chain area. I did notice that the cam sprocket that the chain is on shaft did not seem to be spinning true although the sprocket itself did not seem to have any wobble.
.007" shouldn’t make excessive noise.
Time to check slop in the chains.
Those chains seem to be pretty tight but I will double check. What do you think about that shaft on the cam sprocket not spinning true. It does appear that the sprocket itself and the chain do spin true
It’s the lower chain that has the tensioner that so often fails and rattles quite loudly when it fails. It’s very difficult to see the lower chain without removing the timing chain cover. I’d use an automotive stethoscope (a simple wood dowel works) to try to pinpoint the source of the noise before proceeding. As for the “wobble” in the chain sprocket attach point that could be an issue but likely not the source of your noise. Can you post photos of the sprocket you are referring to? As for the tappet sleeves here is what mine looked like back from the machinist:
My sleeves look the same. Can those hold downs be installed with the cams in place?
Charlie is the noise regular, is it a knock or more like clicking, does it seem to be one tappet or is it multiple tappets - sounds like a sewing machine etc. There are many things that can cause a tapping noise. Sometimes it’s worn tappets in the guide. With the point of the lobe facing you see if you can rock the tappet in the guide using two fingers. It will rock, but how much?
They can but you need to be VERY careful with the drilling swarf. Plug EVERY hole and clean meticulously after drilling. If you search the forum there is more info on this.
Jaguar engine sounds-you tube
I have a video on you tube. The sleeves rotate but have almost no side to side movement. The link is on a previous thread of mine called “finally road worthy” it’s recent so easily found.
If you check your valve clearances and need to adjust them, than you need to take the camshafts off.
I think it’s easier to work with them off. I did mine awhile ago, here is one of many pictures.
Think I’ll wait on that project. Don’t want to push my luck
Took off the valve cover on intake side. Tappet sleeves in place and valve gap is .007. Can’t figure this noise out
IME, valve clearances will basically NEVER make many audible difference in noise. Remember, the early engines had clearances of 0.004" and 0.006", while later ones are 0.012-0.014". The noise comes mostly from the tappets shifting back and forth in the guides, NOT from the cams closing the (very small) clearance.
Checked the tappets by moving side to side and up and down and found practically zero movement. I am really stumped
Hi guys, revisiting this topic. I still have the tapping sound which seems to be pretty consistent. It is fairly loud at idle and add higher RPM. It varies with how fast the engine is going. Today for just shits and giggles I took off the intake valve cover and found out a couple of the gaps are around .009. Would that be enough out of spec to cause a tapping sound? There are a couple of the valves that are at this gap and so I was wondering if the fact that they should be .004 and are more than double that could this be the source of my noise? It is not super loud but it can be hard with the convertible top in the closed position while driving at higher speeds.