How hot are your rear hubs after a drive?

After my Axle change I went for a long drive , noticed one of the rear hubs was very hot , a lot hotter then the other side
I think one of the brake pads was sticking a little , so looked at that , went for a drive , about 8 miles , got out , felt the hubs , close to cold , as I did not have to use the brakes , Today went for a long drive , lot of brake work , rear hubs are hot , about the same both sides , can only just hold your hand on the wheel nuts ,
Is this normal , or are the pads still sticking ,
Rear’s are a lot hotter then the front :shushing_face:

Feature of the Dunlop brakes Ian,
the pads don’t always retract at the rear unlike the front where a small amount of play in the wheel bearings allows the discs to “ knock off “ the pads.
Have you changed calipers yet? if not change to Girling on the rear.

Not sure what make are on there , know they are early , not self adjusting Handbrake , still have the 240 axle I took off 1968 !

I am using Green stuff brake pads , they do not have the plate on the back , to slot in to the back of the piston !
Would I be right in saying the fault is with the retractor mechanism , and the lack of the plate would make no diffrence ?
Or should I change to Girling and have a plate on the back of the pad ?

Well the other Axle has Dunlop calipers as well , same pat number , but they are a little diffrent
Had no problem in the past , so changed one side over , pumped the brake pedal , and checked the pads , I was lose and one was a little tight , so took pad out , replaced it with a bar , pressed the brake pedal again , so piston come out , did that a few times , replaced pad , tried again , pad is lose after pressing brake pedal , now the pad on the other side is a little tight !
Top 2 are off the 240 axle , bottom 2 older off 3.8 axle !


Any tips would be nice , not all Dunlop calipers can be sticking ?

I am guessing the retractor mechanism is at fault , thinking outside the box :thinking:
Other calipers do not have a pin in the centre , what would happen if I removed the pin’s ?
I am thinking its the retractor pins that are holding on , and binding the brakes !

Or maybe I need warped discs :grin:

Up date
spent a few hours on the brakes today , changed a few things ,
Took rubber backing off pads , anti squeal I think , they come with the pads , I stuck them on , front have them , and they are ok .
Noticed the clamp that holds the pads in , was touching the pads , no free play , may have been stopping the pads moving away from the disc
Stripped the calipers , all is as it should be , when piston is fully home , you can pull it out a little , till the retractor pin bit’s .
Once back on car , I placed a small bar , instead of pads , pumped the brake pedal , checked bar , both where lose , did that a few times , replaced pads , inside piston retracts more then the outer one ie , a little more movement to the pad , tried 3 other pistons , all the same !
Tried a thicker bar , pumped brake pedal , both bars about the same free play ,
Push pistons back in replace pads , the same as before , for some reason , the outer piston will not retract as much as the inner , this is on both sides .

I did notice on one side handbrake was a little tight , so slackened that off , and one brake pad was a little tight .

Well it’s all back together just needs a test run .

Cant help but think , as the pistons are all the way back in there housing , that may have some kind of affect on the working of it , as with the bars in , the piston’s where over half way out , they retracted both the same .

See how the test drive goes , if still problems , I have a old set of brake pads , I will cut about 7mm off , and try that ,

I did do some tests with the engine running , so servo come into play , no diffrence .

Was told it could be a servo problem , but would have thought , that would affect all 4 calipers ?

All good fun :grin: ,

Went for a 20 mile run this morning , spirited driving , all 4 hubs just warm , so brakes sorted !

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