So from looking at the Haynes manual I have it doesn’t seem like doing the head is that hard of a job. But I need to do more research about the head bolts because i don’t wanna take it apart and not be able to put it back together.
Is it possible that it goes smoothly lol.
And I don’t have that many tools but I can borrow most tools I need. Specialty tools I’ll need to buy
Anyone in the Dallas area?
If it doesn’t work you have to get a new engine.
But again, if you do nothing, you still have to get a new engine.
You have nothing to loose but your time.
Take the head out and then you can have a better picture of what has to be done.
212.000 miles are indeed much, so if you want to do something that is worthwhile the effort you should also change the piston rings, front and rear seals, and bottom end gaskets.
IMOHO, it will cost as much as a replacement and you will have a fully reconditioned engine.
As long as you don’t have to take the engine out all the above are doable with minimal tools, and the forum will be here to give you a guiding hand.
You should get the camshaft setting tool. Cheap. Needle nose pliers, maybe a gasket scraper, sockets, head gasket, exhaust olives and sealer, camshaft cover gaskets, and a propane torch to soften the copper shims.
Lots of penetrating oil.
For a better looking job only: new copper shims, new camshaft bolt locking plates, the two rubber half moons, new gasket at the breather. If your back tends to hurt anyways, rent or get a crane.
The studs look like a beaver had to go and snap when they’re down to a diameter of 3-4mm. Ideally you’d torque them down before removing the head and if they hold up you can then remove the head knowing it’ll go back together. One head stud less won’t kill you though.
Head gasket leak, can be the result of other things also. In my case the shop team agreed the engine probably for whatever reason, (maybe a hose leak) ran hot, and since the compression was off in one cylinder, they suggested since the engine was down that far, don’t gamble, in case you do have another unknown problem.
Its a good chance that the head has been off previously, if so then they should have some centre pop marks to indicate that.
Jaguar recommend a maximum of three uses of the original head bolts (initial assembly and then a further 2)
If you feel that the head has never been off then you will be good to reuse the bolts (BTDT)
There are no head bolts on an XK engine. All the above relates to AJ6- AJ16 alloy engines.
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The risk is worth taking, Jabraan - plan B, a replacement engine, is always a back-up…
However; before starting the head removal; it is important to run a ‘dry’ and ‘wet’ compression test. It will give some indication of the state of the engine.
The more you know before dismantling the more likely to make the right decisions - and you cannot test a dismantled engine…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Yup correct had a head fart 
“So from looking at the Haynes manual I have it doesn’t seem like doing the head is that hard of a job.”
Many people bend valves from either placing the head on a flat surface whilst cams are installed, or turning one cam while the other is in place. The job is not especially complex but you need to take great care to avoid having to do it more than once. With luck, you will have access to a club shim box and micrometer and be able to get the clearances right.
I would try and find a low mileage XJ and do an engine swap. There are plenty of XJ6’s with low mileage just sitting around. I found an 86 Series 3 with 66K miles on it. The body was horrible but the engine ran like a sewing machine. I ended up buying the car for $850, removed the engine and took the car to a recycle guy who gave me $150. Below is one in San Antonio. Maybe it can be had for $1500. Still a good deal if the engine is good.
Good luck
Are you able to work on engines? Are you capable of removing the engine with transmission out ? Do you have the tools to do this and engine hoist and engine stand. And have a service manual the red one ? And mechanically minded? If so then you can do this…this engine is very basic to rebuild…with the head rebuilt and other parts 2k tops to do yourself.
I don’t have an engine hoist or stand but I don’t think I’ll need one. I saw a video online of removing the head with 2 bottle jacks
I have a manual and some basic tools and can get some if needed so I think I’ll be able to do this job aslong as it goes smoothly
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You will manage even if the job doesn’t go smoothly, Jabraan - even hitches can be regarded as ‘going smoothly’…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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I would try to at least get some idea of the compression on the cylinders not affected by the head gasket failure
would express a reservation that an XJ engine at 212k Miles would not have bores, pistons, rings and main and big end bearings all worn outside spec
even most engines that are known for long life would warrant most of these items replaced, if opened up…never seen the XJ engine mentioned in one of those lists
I know it’s probably worn out but still. Putting in a new head gasket because it’s bad and replacing a bad valve that it has will make it run heaps better than it does now and I consider that as a win.
I’m gonna put up the compression test results I got last time I did it. I guess I didn’t do it properly but it still gives an idea of the health
While you have the head off you might want to pour some ATF/acetone mix into the bores to free up any stuck rings, just make sure you drain and refill the oil before starting the engine. You may have to add the mix a few times as the first load will probably go straight through to the sump.
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Assuming you followed exactly the same procedure for each cylinder, Jabraan - the differences may indicate wear and tear…
Repeat the ‘dry’ compression test with a ‘wet’ test; adding a couple of spoonfulls of engine oil to the bores in turn before cranking. Increase in compression indicates the amount of cylinder/ring wear. No change means leaking valves or head gasket rather than a bore problem…
The ‘0’ of #5 is either a valve or the gasket. There is no test to identify degree of valve, bore or gasket problems conclusively - head removal is required for proper identification. Valve and gasket problems can then be checked and remedied - while bore/ring wear require more extensive work…
For consistency; the ‘wet’ test must use the exact same procedure as the ‘dry’ test. Ie; with only one plug removed at a time, or all removed - the throttle wide open in any case, and the same cranking time used. If all the plugs are removed; 'during the ‘wet’ test, throw a cloth over the head while cranking - it will otherwise be a bit messy…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Spoil sport :)…
thats all you can really do at this stage anyway, did the car blow smoke or foul the plugs before?
you will immediately see if the bore is worn once the head is off, if there is a ridge
No it doesnt blow smoke or foul plugs. It still runs pretty decent. The headgasket was leaking bad so I put some sealer and it seems to have worked because the cooling system is not over pressurizing anymore so I will do another compression test. The oil also got contaminated with water. I’ve done one oil change but need to do couple to clean it out
