How to bench test R blower?

Ugly job, looks like a real PIA.

Surprised that JB weld didn’t hold Joe …although if the fit is REALLY tight, there won’t be enough JB in there to give it strength …

small “last ditch” suggestion …try this maybe?

Before you re-glue the pieces with JB, file some small v-notches here and there in both bits, giving more room for the JB weld …then, after it’s set up, use a tiny drill and drill through the repair in a couple of places. Now match up the holes with a couple of small panel pins (nails) and insert these through the holes with more JB.

When the job has set up, cut off the excess pins and file the job flush.

Pinned like that, it ain’t goin’ nowhere IMO

worth a try?


Hi Joe, How about making a new pivot pin with a slot cut down one end that you could push on to the flap to allow you to have one piece either side of the flap, you could then drill through it and rivet it, or use the JB weld.

Casso, that’s exactly what I’m doing. First JB Weld and see how strong it’ll be.

I fixed the flap and reinstalled the whole blower unit but still nothing. When I change the fan speed from MED to HIGH, I hear a relay clicking in the blower but the fan doesn’t run. Tested the motor and it works, both relays clicked after I removed them from the socket and tested them. Going to check the solder joint of the B4 fuse. I had that problem before when it was cracked.

I finally removed the R fuse box to check the solder joints and surprise-surprise the B4 joint was cracked to a point where there wasn’t any connection. I did the same job years ago, I could tell by the previous solderings. I must have done a sloppy job though. It’s all good now. I’ve reflown the other joints too.

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I also replaced the top screw that’s holding the R fuse box to the plastic spacer so I can use my right angle ratchet without removing the knee bolster and the tray saving a lot of time.

There’s plenty of room for the regular screwdriver at the L fuse box after removing the cover panel.