@BobPhx will be happy - new oscilloscope in my hands
Now that I’m not panicked with valve/injector clicking noises, I’m moving to tuning.
Notes and Considerations:
- I’ve removed the AAV
- I’ve removed all the emissions stuff
- I replaced the small little trumpet intakes to allow for more air
- New O2 sensors
- I’ve slightly increased the throttle gap and related switches to increase idle from a stumbling 450 to smooth 550
- When the front is jacked up, the engine starts but stalls shortly after - thinking fuel pump issues and that plays into tuning questions and thoughts
1. How do I tell if the ECU has entered closed loop?
I’ve dug around and there’s lots of questions and discussions on this topic, what is open and closed loop, etc., but couldn’t find a definitive guide. I’m looking at The Book now which may have answers. I think the first thing I’m worried about is the fuel richness under this new configuration. With the scope, I was going to start by looking at the 4-pin diags in the trunk that shows the ECU adjustments from the O2 sensors. I think I know how to do that. The car needs to come to temperature and then based on various sensor readings, the ECU will switch to closed loop. I’m trying to figure out the key determinant/s I can check that tell me I’m in closed loop versus open loop.
2. Are there other ways to work with idle adjustments without an AAV other than opening the throttle a touch?
After all the changes, the idle actually is much happier than is was before, even after all the work and rebuild and tuning I did with the AAV. It’s very smooth now. I’m looking at this because opening the throttle increases the fuel richness and that will impact the readings. I think I just need to make sure that A and B throttles are adjusted the same, and then from there if the A or B fuel map is outta whack, go from there, but I like having options.
Cool - as always - love any constructive criticism, thoughts, new directions, etc