My pump is it a bad way, 9 of the screws in the body have sheared. I could maybe spend time on drilling them out.
Before I do that, how double I test this section of the pump.
Thank
I have both my Mk9 pumps off at the moment and have ordered a few general service parts which are pretty expensive. If your’s are as bad as what the picture shows, it might be worth converting to something more modern, such as a pair of Facet pumps.
Your coil body looks as if it may still have the original wiring in it which will be pretty dodgy by now.
I’ve rebuilt about a dozen of them. They’re pretty easy to test. That’s a magnetic coil. Put what’s left of your diaphragm shaft in there, connect the two wires to 12V pos and neg, doesn’t matter which way, and see if the coil pulls the steel center in.
Points and diaphragm are often all they need. Moss Motors, Burlen’s, XKs Unlimited have them. Burlen’s also has the Bakelite frame and cap if you need those.
All mine are converted to transistor operation, so the points are only passing a tiny current and last basically forever. The transistor conversion makes them only positive or only negative ground, so choose which one you want.
This is the earlier version with individual components.
There is also a more modern version with these components mounted on a circuit board.
I believe there is another type of conversion called Hall Effect, which eliminates the points, but I don’t have that.
Thanks Rob
Worked as it should. I have done a new video of my thoughts.
I have to say that I have been let down so many times by SU pumps over the last 50 years in everything from my first Morris Minor and Frogeye Sprite to my last Triumph Stag that I’d never trust one again. I might make an exception for one with an electronic conversion. I’ve had several points-type ones that work fine on the bench but only intermittently when in the car - I’ve fitted Facets or similar for the last 15 years or so now.