Good Morning, In rebuilding my rear suspension I find one hub missing the water shield. Replacement shield is now in hand. Other than tack welding the new shield in place does anyone have any other suggestions on how to secure the shield to the hub? It appears that there is a small slot in the hub where the shield is supposed to sit. Is it possible to heat the shield to allow enough expansion to be able to force it over the hub and into the slot. Welding it would place the shield just behind the slot or onto the face of the hub. I am also considering using panel adhesive rather than weld.
How big is the difference between the ID of the thrower, and the OD of the Hub recess? I’ve seen interference and free fit between these two parts.
When it was an interference fit I’ve fitted them by dishing the thrower slightly (in a press with a round platen) to be able to get it onto the land, then straightening the thrower. I have also thrown away new throwers because they were just too far off the hub dimension to even bother trying.
I have both staked and tacked them with a TIG to ensure that they stay put.
You can go without the shield. The early E’s didn’t have them. Just avoid deep puddles. When the other one lets loose, there will be a pleasant jingling sound when you drive.
I got rid of mine also, improperly installed gives you a nice methododical scraping noise as you drive. Besides, how many times do you really drive it in wet weather?
Yes! we’re discussing the cover plates C 23616. Every xke driver hears a strange singing noise, often off key as we’re singing due to the overwhelming joy of driving our cars.
But it is a noise that varies with speed. Accelerate to a high speed and then let the car slow down on its own and see if the noise changes with the speed. In many cases the covers only touch in one spot so that the sound will be pulsing and also varying with speed. You can also jack up the rear and then put it into gear and then neutral, and listen. That will eliminate any front end noises.
Thanks - I will pass that info along to my friend. The noise did not occur with the rear end raised and the car run in gear - but that may be do to the geometry of the rear changing with the wheels drooping.
Thinking about it - I realize that I have never removed those covers so I was unaware of the fitment issues or that fitting them possibly required more that just pushing them toward the hub and clamping them in place.
Hi Michael,
I could be mistaken but I think the original poster was asking about the water slinger on the hub not the u-joint cover C 23616.
Cheers,
LLynn
On my car they were missing until I replaced the hubs (due to worn wheel splines). I can’t say I’ve noticed any benefit from the watershield, but then I only drive in the rain (or snow) on Oil Leaks!
If you don’t want to mess with heating the shield, while putting the hub in the icebox over a day or night, then carefully file the shield inside diameter just enough to press it over the groove at the back of the hub, and stake the thing down. you can put a few spots of weld on and grind them flush if desired. I drive my cars as much as I can in the Summer, and while the hubs get greased, I want all the help keeping water out I can get.
I would try using a center punch to stake the inner rim/lip down. If that doesn’t work, then they can be spot welded in a couple places on the back, then ground down.
My rain shield(s) that came off the back of the hubs were the originals…not sure why they came off so easily, but I was able to file the lip a bit so they would fit back down where they were supposed to be. I staked them down using a center punch in a half dozen places on the back of the hub. They seem to be doing well after a number of years, and many miles.
