Good evening- This is my first post. Glad to be here and looking forward to learning.
For my 70th b’day, my bride plans to gift me with the car I’ve dreamed of since I was a kid - an e-type ots, probably '65 '66 or '67. I’ve been involved with Corvettes for many years and it’s time I get the real deal in sports cars. Don’t get me wrong, I dig the Vettes, I have three, and as the xke has always seemed unattainable, I never seriously thought about getting one … until now! In any event, input, suggestions, thoughts and comments are welcome. What to look for that’s desirable, and what to avoid. I am learning something new about jags each day. Thank you.
Get the best quality car possible. You will save money in the long run. Getting a “project” car is a lot of work and expense. Buying a restored or well maintained car will be money in your pocket that you will wind up spending because you want to , rather than NEED to.
Len
Welcome Carlo! The adventure begins. My advice is to not get anxious and buy a car that’s not right for you. A little more info, such as what you plan to do with the car (Concourse, show, driver, etc.) and whether you plan on wrenching on it yourself would be helpful. The things to avoid, in order of importance, are rust, rust, and rust. Many “restored” vehicles have simply hidden the rust, so be VERY wary of ANY bondo over 1/16" thick.
Yes, I agree with the notion of getting the best car possible. Although I don’t mind wrenching a bit, the key word is, “A bit”.
The adventure is indeed at the start line. It’s hard not to get anxious. My plans for the car are simple- a nice driver quality car that can be driven without (too much) worry, and one that won’t embarrass me at a local car show.
The pre-inspection by someone who is savvy about a specific car is something I always recommended to those looking into older cars, Corvettes especially. I’ll take your (and my) advice.
And thank you for the welcome.
I was told to do some reading by these fellows: Thomas F. Haddock and Philip Porter.
The advice about inspection is spot on but of course I ignored it and most of the other prudent things when I bought mine. What I did do was seek out a car that was still original, including original paint.
My thinking was that I was not competent to judge the quality of restoration work but could probably assess the condition of an unmolested car. This worked for me but is, of course, just one way to approach it.
Thank you. I understand that certain cars have their nuances, and with that, problem areas. Those who know these cars know what to look for. An inspection is most likely in the cards.
Welcome Carlo ! Covered headlights , triple SU’s and toggle switches are known to be highly coveted. The years you selected encompass those features as well as the 4.2 engine. Also, just like the Corvette community, matching numbers is a sought after feature.
With three cars I’m sure I don’t have to tell to avoid rushing into a purchase. Join a local E type club, check all the variations of the E and have the owners talk to you about their car. You’ll hear pro’s and con’s of all versions : Series I , II, III , in FHC (fixed head coupe), 2+2 and OTS (open two seater ) bodies.
Welcome, Carlo. In a couple of days I’ll have owned my ‘68 E-type OTS for 37 years and it still brings a smile to my face.
The later Series 1 cars you’re targeting are highly sought after and demand the highest prices. Most 67s left the factory with open headlights though they feature the triple carbs and toggle switch dash and many have been retrofitted to closed headlights so if strict factory originality is important to you, and you zero in on a ‘67, you will need to verify the VIN against production date.
You being of the Corvette fraternity you’re no stranger to the matching numbers paradigm. It’s not nearly as entrenched in the E-type crowd and doesn’t factor into judging as it does with ‘vettes but you can use it to advantage to negotiate pricing if the engine or gearbox isn’t original to the car. On the other hand, you might expect to pay more for a car with a 5-speed conversion, which many have had.
The very best E-type values are the Series 2s, so you might want to keep them in the running. Though not as pretty as the S1s they feature better brakes, better cooling systems and more comfortable seats. Many have been retrofitted to triple SUs and some to covered headlights and toggle switch dashes. There’s always the 1.5s which combine many of the best features of both series.
Expect to pay most for the open cars, not a whole lot less for the two seater coupes and least, though they’re catching up, for the 2+2s.
Welcome Carlo, coincidentally, " Karlo" is my longtime nickname.
All about the budget. If money is no issue, buy the model you like. As for cautions, I would buy a car from the southwest if possible. California, Arizona etc. When these things rust, they rust like no other. The values keep them from the crusher, but there are a lot of bondo bombs out there. Engine frames, sills, all structural on these cars.
Buying an e type is about like buying a wooden boat. Be wary!!
That’s succinctly the best advice so far, Karl and Carlo. I would hazard to say most E-types I’ve seen over the years have issues especially structural. There’s a standard joke in here when an abomination comes up in eBay or a certain dealer in California for stupid money that goes “But it’s matching numbers!” Or “But it’s a Series 1!” Humour with a fair bit of reality mixed in. The really important consideration is condition. It trumps everything, despite what some vendors will pitch to you.
Everyone here will have good advice. My two cents:
I agree that rust is the biggest problem. I am not a Corvette guy, but from what I know, Corvettes have a frame that is heavy and rust is probably not a huge problem. E-Types are made from sheet metal, and rust IS a huge problem.
I know you will have to make purchasing compromises like the rest of us, but I would look for a solid original. My limited experience is S1’s were often bought and driven sun, rain, and snow. But by the time the S2’s came about, more were purchased as second cars and not used year round. I believe there are quite a few low mileage, garage kept S2’s out there (as well as junk.). Obviously restorations can be great, or they can also be a quick paint job, or who knows what. As others have said, be sure you are getting what you think you are getting. To me, you are buying the car, not the story. Be very leery of new paint. If covers a lot of problems.
Tom
If you haven’t discovered it already, I recommend “Jaguar E Type The Essential Buyer’s Guide” by Peter Crespin. Many valuable facts and insights in this book, it made all the difference during my search for the right car. Enjoy your search!
I pretty much had an XKE as a bucket list item since I was stationed in Europe 1969 -72. Could never afford one at the time, but as I approached 72 a couple of years ago, that constraint had long gone. In my case, ( being a mechanical Engineer for the career duration), I wanted a solid car, no accidents, no rust as the starting point, good brakes, good cooling and most of all, a reliable driver. I’ve restored several cars along the way, and even did a FFR Cobra kit, but at this point for me, time in the car matters more than the personal satisfaction of doing another one.
I did supervise the nut and bolt restoration of a selected California Car by a trusted shop, started the job in 2017, was fully involved with the various decisions on it all as we went along, but they managed to get it all done and on the road in 7 months. There is a certain peace of mind that comes with this approach for those mountain road trips knowing the intimate details of the restoration versus buying a pretty face that you don’t really know at the nut and bolt level. I did keep a thread going online to catalog the restoration, warts and all, which will give you some idea of how the handwringing went from start to finish. Good luck. You won’t regret the adventure from the gift that keeps on giving.
You better drive one first - they are tiny inside. Don’t know which Corvettes you have or had, but the '63 to '67 (of the “old” ones) are very big inside. Our '64 FHC is very small inside and our '63 Corvette was very big. Of these era cars those 2 examples must be at the far ends of the spectrum, so be advised. Our '58 and '59 Corvettes were tighter and more like the Jaguar.
Hi Carlo,
I can’t add much to the above. That said, if you give us a clue as to where you live you might find you have a forum enthusiast located in your area. Regardless, if you go to JCNA.com, click on Events/Calendar you will find a listing of every JCNA concours in the US. I’d suggest you pick one near you and attend, as a quick way to see some cars (generally very nice ones) and talk to Etype owners.
Certainly not the only source but Bringatrailer.com provides a history of Etype auctions, including selling price or bid to price. Another things about BAT is the commentary over the week long auction period. Some very knowledgeable folks provide comments regarding the pros and cons of each car. Its almost like having your own personal docent. Of course, you will have to learn to separate the “wheat from the chaff” but as you read the various comments, certain individuals will come to stand out as providing good comments. To implement a search just use the Search box on the main webpage and search on “jaguar xke”. I just checked and there are 170 closed auctions that you can use to expand your knowledge. Happy hunting.