Me too, but didn’t someone say that was a Jaguar warranty repair procedure?
If the corrosion has breached the cylinder liner I’ll have to agree with Robin that JB Weld won’t work. While I have found it to be useful in many applications, it certainly isn’t “liquid metal”.
The corrosion does not look very deep in the fire ring area. So probably a skim will remove the imperfection there. So the question is if JB weld is good enough for the corrosion arround the water passage. It might be worth a try, but I wouldn’t be too sure about the repair lasting very long.
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It’s crazy we’re in the same situation - both head and blocked damaged.
I’d give it a little more of a clean up and take some pictures to the side to show us the depth of the pitting. Besides the number one cylinder, I don’t think these are too bad.
Given what you’ve told me about your situation - try JB weld and see if it works and hold. I think the distance from the iron sleeve isn’t too bad and worth trying before pulling the engine to repair (expensive) or replace (risky).
Your coolant leak was only going to get worse, but as you say it wasn’t really that bad - some jb weld, a new gasket would be the route I would go knowing what I know now and seeing your dilemma .
Jitneybead
Hi Grooveman.
Thanks for the nice schematic summarizing head gasket failure types. It will help structuring fault finding actions.
Peter
Hi John,
The picture below is what I found when I disassembled the intake manifold from a stuck XK engine. (on an XJ S2 that’s now in early project stage). I had the impression that there was a leak in the seal between head and intake manifold, and that the engine vacuum must have been constantly pulling coolant into the cilinders, then evaporating the water part, and hence concentrating the coolant’s sugars et al.
Does that make sense?
Cheers
Peter
I am a great fan of JB Weld: that said, there’s no way I use it on a cylinder head or block sealing surface.
Just thinking about the temperatures and pressures around the engine with respect to JB Weld repair …
JB Weld around the combustion chamber ---- 160 psi plus and temperatures just south of hell 
JB Weld around the oil passages — 50-60 psi and I don’t know how hot
JB Weld around water passages — less than 15 psi and around 200 degrees
After all the talk of JB Weld repairs in this forum as of late, I did a little investigation to see how the repairs hold up. Admittedly, I was surprised that all the testimonials I saw said it worked great for many years and many miles. Most of these repairs were done on engines from other makes, but that doesn’t really matter.
I’d say its up to you to decide if that’s a solution you’re willing to give a try based off where the corrosion is at. I’m simply bringing this up because I know for many of us, its a knee-jerk reaction to just dismiss this type of repair and pursue an ideal repair. However, if time and cost is a consideration, sometimes that isn’t feasible. If you want to research it yourself before making a decision, simply google it and you’ll find countless posts on other forums who have done it on all kinds of engines including some pretty high horsepower ones.
First, “JB Weld” is an.ambiguous term as there are many variants of JB Weld. I found this high heat version listed on JB’s Web site:
Note the suggested uses include Automotive / Engine Blocks.
As for the temperature of the head/block I found this on quora.com:
If my math is any good 260 degrees Celsius is - ta-da - 500 degrees Fahrenheit.
Draw your own conclusions…
IMHO I think this is where @stran0020 is in his decision and if I was him, based on his pictures, I would at least try JB weld first. He has very little to lose except some time and a gasket at this stage. Yes, he could put it all back together, fire it up and find he has the same problem straight away or he could have a year or more of care free driving.
I don’t think his block damage is too deep into the cylinder, compared to mine which is no doubt. So I’m patiently awaiting Engine 2 to arrive. While getting the engine out was easy for me, I have the space time and tools and money to do it this way.
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Thanks for everyone’s insight! I’m going to take a little break while I wait for different items to come in but I am going try a JB weld repair as the engine has only 40K miles and was running good before I took the cylinder head apart. I did source another engine for $100 that I’m going to pick up but I don’t really want to be spending more money buying a hoist and time learning how to take the engine off etc. I need my garage back! Anyways, I will take photos along the way and keep everyone updated!
Off topic, but I’m going to remove the Air Pump piping that connects to the exhaust manifolds, anyone see any issues that might cause?
