Bit late but today at the hardware store I found the last of its kind, a rare dinosaur, on the clearance rack…
When lit it looks exactly like the Jag instrument lights. To find this just days after thinking about it.
Black lights… good for huntin’ scorpions!
No that’s wrong. The correct one has 2 threaded ends on a straight length of rod.
Left and right sides are the same.
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Hi Guys,
As my MkIX has a glass brake fluid container, I was interested to learn that the plastic reservoir with low level warning was latter introduced. Thorley’s book (MarkVii to 420G) says the hand brake / fluid level light was introduced in May 1960 and that dealers were provided with kits with wiring and switches for fitting to earlier models.
I can concur that the steering tie rods are straight (mine are not the threaded type) and that the wires for the clock in the back of the front seat come through a grommet near the bottom of the B pillar to the seat (no hole in the carpet and enabling seat movement fore and aft). It does not seem tidy but feet would not tend to go between the seat and the door pillar.
My question to Mike is did the clock work or have you now fixed it?
Matt
Of course I needed to fix both clocks before I started on anything else! That’s how I found out there was no power to the rear clock.
I just finished rebuilding the brake master cylinder and the booster, and installed the slave cylinders that were rebuilt by White Post, so today I was ready to flush the system and bleed the brakes. The rear two brakes flowed well but I couldn’t get any fluid at all out of the front two. I checked the hard line for kinks and didn’t find any, but then discovered that there was fluid getting to the brass junction at the right wheel but nothing coming out. That 4-way junction has one input, one output for each front wheel, and the stop light pressure switch in the middle. The proper stop light switch has a 1/8" tapered pipe fitting, but this one has a parallel thread. That means that it screws in until something stops it by it bottoming out. That effectively blocks all the passageways inside the junction block, so no fluid can pass through anywhere. The switch is a Lucas brand that had lots of black greasy gunk on it, just like everything else around it, so it isn’t a new addition. It makes me wonder how long this car has been running without its front brakes.
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Hi Jay! I would love to get more information on the updated/upgraded front brakes. What is the best way to contact you? I have a 1961 Mark, IX.
My brakes work relatively well, but I would have to imagine once you replace the rotors and calipers the cost for rotors would be much better than they are for the Jaguar. I appreciate any advice you’re willing to give me and I’d like to thank you in advance.…
Jim
Hi Jim,
You can PM me at wwweber@quixnet.net. I can send you all the details on my brake upgrades, front and rear, including what photos I have.
Thanks,
Jay
If you look up some of my previous posts I have explained how to use a Nissan disc, either with the existing calipers or with those from an XJ6/420. This is on the rear.
Hi Jay! I responded back with an email that I replied to. Did you receive it? Thanks again, Jay!
Jim
Hi Jim,
No, I never received anything at the e-mail address that I left above. 
Sorry, Jay
Hi Wardell,
I don’t know why, but I just received this message. I’m looking for any information you might be able to give me concerning the rear rotors. Just trying to get away from the cost of replacing the originals. What is your suggestion?
Thank you in advance!
Hi.
If you check out my posts from around November 2021 you will see all you need to know about fitting alternative brake discs and calipers to the mk9 rear.
Basically it involves slightly modifying a Nissan, Renault disc. I’ve given part numbers and a drawing.
You can use this disc with either the rubbish standard Dunlop type calipers or you can fit the later calipers from a Jaguar 420 or early XJ6.
Skimming the existing disc isn’t on, as they are rather thin to start with. Retaining the Dunlop calipers and resleeving them is expensive when 420 calipers can be fitted. These were a far superior item. You do however need to make up some spacers, use longer bolts and redo the piping arrangement.
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Thank you so much, Wardell! I am definitely going to look into the ladder and see if I can make it work! I’ll try to find your post with the pictures and see if that makes it easier to understand. Again, thank you very much for everything. I really appreciate it!
My pleasure.
If you need me to go over anything or further details, just ask.
I was quite proud of finding these alternative parts and quite happy to share the knowledge.
The alternative discs here in UK were only £20 each. The usual Jag suppliers at the time wanted about £180 each and didn’t have any in stock. Ideally they should be machined on a lathe which is what I did. However the material that needs to be removed is so little, that it could actually be hand filed.
Thank you so much, Wendell. I will probably have a few questions once I get started… Wishing you all the best, my friend!
Jim