Bit late but today at the hardware store I found the last of its kind, a rare dinosaur, on the clearance rack…
When lit it looks exactly like the Jag instrument lights. To find this just days after thinking about it.
Black lights… good for huntin’ scorpions!
No that’s wrong. The correct one has 2 threaded ends on a straight length of rod.
Left and right sides are the same.
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Hi Guys,
As my MkIX has a glass brake fluid container, I was interested to learn that the plastic reservoir with low level warning was latter introduced. Thorley’s book (MarkVii to 420G) says the hand brake / fluid level light was introduced in May 1960 and that dealers were provided with kits with wiring and switches for fitting to earlier models.
I can concur that the steering tie rods are straight (mine are not the threaded type) and that the wires for the clock in the back of the front seat come through a grommet near the bottom of the B pillar to the seat (no hole in the carpet and enabling seat movement fore and aft). It does not seem tidy but feet would not tend to go between the seat and the door pillar.
My question to Mike is did the clock work or have you now fixed it?
Matt
Of course I needed to fix both clocks before I started on anything else! That’s how I found out there was no power to the rear clock.
I just finished rebuilding the brake master cylinder and the booster, and installed the slave cylinders that were rebuilt by White Post, so today I was ready to flush the system and bleed the brakes. The rear two brakes flowed well but I couldn’t get any fluid at all out of the front two. I checked the hard line for kinks and didn’t find any, but then discovered that there was fluid getting to the brass junction at the right wheel but nothing coming out. That 4-way junction has one input, one output for each front wheel, and the stop light pressure switch in the middle. The proper stop light switch has a 1/8" tapered pipe fitting, but this one has a parallel thread. That means that it screws in until something stops it by it bottoming out. That effectively blocks all the passageways inside the junction block, so no fluid can pass through anywhere. The switch is a Lucas brand that had lots of black greasy gunk on it, just like everything else around it, so it isn’t a new addition. It makes me wonder how long this car has been running without its front brakes.
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Hi Jay! I would love to get more information on the updated/upgraded front brakes. What is the best way to contact you? I have a 1961 Mark, IX.
My brakes work relatively well, but I would have to imagine once you replace the rotors and calipers the cost for rotors would be much better than they are for the Jaguar. I appreciate any advice you’re willing to give me and I’d like to thank you in advance.…
Jim
Hi Jim,
You can PM me at wwweber@quixnet.net. I can send you all the details on my brake upgrades, front and rear, including what photos I have.
Thanks,
Jay
If you look up some of my previous posts I have explained how to use a Nissan disc, either with the existing calipers or with those from an XJ6/420. This is on the rear.
Hi Jay! I responded back with an email that I replied to. Did you receive it? Thanks again, Jay!
Jim
Hi Jim,
No, I never received anything at the e-mail address that I left above. 
Sorry, Jay
