So now that I have my engine running (Finally!) I can now join the club of fixing oil leaks on the XJS
At idle, the car leaks about 1 drip per 2 seconds. I can see the leak is dripping from the LEFT side, from the front nut holding that thin metal plate (torque converter housing?) The leak continues to leak for a few minutes after shutdown. (The attach photo shows where. This is NOT my car, just a photo I found on the internet.)
This does not sound like a RMS to me? I didn’t see any oil leaking from oil senders. When I get time, I’ll check the left rear half moon seal, and the left banjo bolt, IF I CAN FIGURE OUT HOW TO SEE IN THERE. I did do a lot of messing around (with hammer and screwdriver) when trying to remove left plug to install an aftermarket oil pressure sender. I could have messed something up? If I find I need to replace one of those banjo bolt oil lines to sender, is that possible with engine in?
History of the car, it sat from 2012 to 2018.
1988 XJS V12.
Membership of this rather exclusive club depends on just one qualification. A willingness to get the car safely up in the air, and , armed with carb. cleaner, and a roll of paper towels start cleaning and watching. You will know when you have attained your membership.
Take a careful look at the oil filter housing, too, grasshopper!
Never had trouble with banjo bolts, other than rad.
Ha! I think I may invest in an endoscope camera that works with my smart phone. Only $40 these days.
I’ve been through the paper towel/carb cleaner on my other cars!
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
4
Gee, I think I paid $7 for mine.
That little cover under the torque converter can come off, which may make it easier to see where the leak is coming from. I’m betting it’s not the rear main seal, though. I’m betting it’s the oil filter head. There’s a threaded plug on the back of the oil filter head that’s notorious for leaking until the washer is replaced with a stat-o-seal or something else reliable.
True, true. I have stopped all leaks but this one:
The picture the OP provided shows a hex bolt in the upper right corner, this is where I get oil coming down from. As suggested in the older thread I linked, removal of the subframe, the lower oil pan and using sealant on the bolts that secure the upper pan (sandwich plate) to the block is the cure, but this is way above my DYI skills.
I’ve also had to remove the center cover plate (deep down in the vee) to fix a small leak, that would eventually fill the small square cavity in the back of the block. Then suddenly, a sharp turn or a pothole will result in the oil spilling and the nasty smell of burnt oil from the contact with the hot cat converters.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
8
Absolutely, assuming you stick nothing up by the whirling apparatus!
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
11
Dunno. I do think you probably should reseal that plug anyway, since it’s so easy. Remove the filter for access. Unscrew the plug, replace the sealing washer, reinstall. I think the original seal is one of those fiber things and it cracks causing a leak.
Good news! Found the oil leak! From where I hooked up aftermarket oil sender on side opposite idiot light sender. Gregma-Error - I used a BSPP adapter. Should have read The Book where it says it’s standard threads. The drip was so tiny, and it dripped directly on cam cover joint, so it sneakily found it’s way down without pooling anywhere on top of engine. And after shutdown, it appeared dry to the touch. Also makes sense, it wouldn’t leak for first 5-10 minutes running engine.
Looking for leak, I pulled off torque converter cover, sprayed a lot of carb cleaner, and paper toweled a lot underneath. Can I join the club now?
I have that problem too. The technician at a local shop told me it was the rear main seal, but I discovered oil pooling below the tower that the oil pressure sender and the switch (and the cam lube connections). The problem is the position of the switch makes it very difficult to attach the connector. The techs tend to grab the connector with long needle nose pliers and push. If it’s not properly aligned with the tab on switch it won’t go on, so they push harder. This breaks the seal and oil start leaking out around the tab. It’s happened twice on my car. The switch is not expensive, but you have to remove the throttle pedestal to replace it.
We all do, but it’s bound to happen, especially when we dive in to unknown territories.
The talent isn’t not to make errors, but be able to fix them.
And many a times errors have lead to better solutions.
The best example is the self adhesive, a chemist that made an error and made a glue that wouldn’t dry and was always sticky…
As I was about to reinstall my freshly por15 painted torque converter housing, I saw a wee spot of oil under the car. Upon close examination, there is a very tiny bit of oil coming from the RMS.
So I officially own an old British RMS oil leaker! Hooray! I even bought an oil drip pan for the occasion.
But I’m quite glad when I find what I think is a major issue is just a dumb little mistake on my part.