I’m thinking of selling my E-TYPE and replacing with an early sedan. Looking closely at a '77 that is cosmetically very nice. I suspect the front suspension assembly has been changed to S3 configuration. Can anyone tell just by looking at this photo? Also, what are the advantages of an S3 suspension over that of a '77? Is the steering mechanism involved? I noted quite a number of ads for early cars with this swap.
Maybe a more basic question is what to look for/watch out for in the 76/77 years. Advantages of a car with 40K miles over one with 100K in terms of the underpinnings? For example, should I expect a car with 100K miles to need a complete suspension and IRS redo… pinion/stub shaft seals, hub bearings, wishbone bearings, etc. I’ve done all of this on an a 65K mile '64 E, but did so only because I was changing the rear gear ratio anyway. That diff was leaking around the output shafts, but the hub bearings and fulcrum bearings looked good when I took it apart. I put in new anyway, but I wonder how far will these things go before needing major attention in a sedan.? Thanks
That looks like the S3 brakes to me. The caliper is four pot (two on front, two on back) instead of three pot (two on front, one on back). The rotor should be vented–hard to tell in this photo but obvious if you view it from the edge.
I can’t tell about the suspension from the photo. The S3 one has somewhat larger bearings, and the control arms are slightly modified.
Lower mileage always better IMHO. Generally, also very much IMHO, the S1 cars have many unique features (lighter, SWB, fascia, original version of the model) as do the S3 cars (more refined, LWB, luxury, Farina styling). The S2 cars have nothing to recommend them in particular.
BTW, I’m not sure when the vented rotors/4 pots were introduced; they could be standard on the S2 you are looking at.
the larger technical step occurred when moving from SI to SII in 1973 (new heating/ventilation, different electrics).
The switch to SIII was primarily a clever facelift and the adaptation of some perception-of-quality features to the likings of US and continental European customers. I’m pretty sure SIII and SII were using the same Delanair air condition unit, but this should be documented in the archives. The main technical change, fuel injection, was released already on SII cars in the US. A 1977 US car might be fuel injected - then you’ve got the best of both worlds - original body line with high performance FI engine. Without catalytic converters the SIII 6 cylinder car was registered at some 205 DIN HP.
If I had to choose, I’d go for the genuine low mileage car, but rather for the sake of statistical originality, making maintenance a lot easier, and engine wear. If the low mileage car has been under-used and/or not been stored adequately, you might run into hardened rubber, brittle plastic or breaking leather just as much. My key to success in buying old cars is looking into the door jambs - what do they look like? A careless owner or a dealer will clean the car only on the surfaces, but the state of the door jambs in many instances gives away more both of the general attention and decay.
The brakes look exactly like an SIII. Also yes the rotor is vented.
Since having seen Lyon‘s original SI, I would always prefer one. The grass might always be greener on the other side, but all the E-Type arrangements are similar, especially the switches and gauges in the middle so you‘d feel right at home.
In the SIII everything is seemingly placed where they found some space. Much of the plastic feels cheaper and probably is. Therefore the surely better AC and fuel injection must make the later cars a bit better. Electronics are a plus, too.
When it comes to mileage I‘m not sure what I would look for, as we all know from experience, the cars age and run much better when driven regularly. Key is that there is no oil puddle anywhere and of course the brakes are good, if not then it makes sense to overhaul the IRS of course. Don’t forget to stake down the tappet guides, as later engines run hotter. Another large improvement is proper bushings for the steering (I don’t know if that changed over the years; the V12 SIII had lower ratio than the 4.2)
Rust areas I know are the jacking points fore and aft, around the headlamps and at the trunk, further the wheel wells and there should be absolutely no bubbling around the glass.
The Delanair Mk II can certainly provide very cold air but if you’re accustomed to modern AC systems you might find the volume of air a bit lacking.
I might add that a fully sorted climate control is a huge ‘plus’ when looking at these old Jags, IMO. The refrigeration end of the system is plain as mud in terms of technology and (most) repairs… but the control aspects can be frustrating.
Thanks everyone for the info. Doug, is it safe to say that a properly functioning Delanair AC system that is converted to using R134 should be up to the task of cooling the car in Texas/Arizona summers?
My frame of reference is the Pacific NW where were seldom get hotter than mid-90s in the summer. I find the A/C perfectly adequate. However, if the car has been baking in the heat all day it takes a bit longer to cool the cabin than I experience on modern cars…but other than that, it’s fine. That is, there’s no problem in keeping the cabin cool.
I know that TX and AZ temps can climb to 110-115ºF. I can’t comment on how the A/C copes under those conditions.
My car’s AC functioned a bit odd, but worked. 83 SIII. Mid 90’s OK.
I’ve lived in the 115 and more climes. No Jaguar at the time. The aftermarket MK II AC in my company car, a 57 Chevvy six was barely adequate. The factory AC in the 59 fords that replaced it was fully capable.
My limited opinion is that an up to snuff Delanair would not be adequate on a 115 day.
not quite as hot as Texas here, but still hot in summer.
With the S2, I would consider aircon marginal on +90F days, especially if the car is a dark color
You should also establish from the owner if the climate control is working perfectly
with the IRS, it depends, its quite likely rear brakes would want attention, any oil leak in output shafts means the IRS needs to come out
Low mileage old car vs a high mileage old car. Documentation is the ticket.
I prefer a higher mileage (read not completely spent) car over a low mileage car.
Case and point.
I purchased two XJ6 Series III’s A '85 green XJ6 and a ''86 grey XJ6. the price of the two cars together was less than $1000.00 US. and neither were driveable.
The grey one had 135,000 miles on it, and rust in all the usual places. Like the duct tape rust repair?
Which appeared to be seriously neglected. The grey one. Out in a field with a tarp over it sporting 4 flat tires
The green parked in a garage in a upper middle class neighborhood. covered with a high end car cover.
Which has higher compression? the grey one.
Which cars’ suspension was in the best shape? The grey one
Which cars’ leather is in the better shape? The grey one.
Which cars’ wood is in the better shape? the Green one
Which headliner is in better shape? the Green one
Which paint is in better shape? the grey one (not by much though)
Which is a nicer car to drive around town? The green one
Which is a better highway car? the Grey one.
Which has fewer electrical issues The Grey one.
Which is “all there?” the green one.
Which has more electrical issues the green one
Which car’s cruise control works? neither None of my 7 in total pre '90’s Jags XJ’s have functional cruise control.
Which car has had the fewest owners? The Grey car 3 in total counting me. The green 7 in total even ended up at an auction at one point in its life.
Which car has the best documentation? The Grey car.
IMHO Documentation and the number of previous owners makes a difference in the quality of the car; not so much mileage.
Some of you are probably asking why did I purchase a rusty car? the headlights. The big headlight trim rings are worth more than what I paid for the car.
Brakes…
Here’s the SWB Series II getting new shoes fitted, notice the calipers are 4 pots.
I’m inclined to think these are the original calipers. At first I was suspect the calipers were from a series III but when I tried to replace the front spindles because of bearing wear, the spindles were the smaller diameter which were used on the Series I and Series II XJ6’s.
It’s been my experience that pretty much every fastener on the Series I and Series II’s are Whitworth. How’d I figure that out? The metric wrench was either too big or too small for the fastener, and the SAE was damn close but still too much wiggling for my liking. Then I remembered my '59 Anglia Escort which was all Whitworth. I found a whitworth spanner and it fit perfectly!
More often than not the SAE is so darn close to whitworh, you wouldn’t know the difference or think twice about it. Until you get to the big stuff, like the damper on the engine.
None of my 7 in total pre '90’s Jags XJ’s have functional cruise control.