I’ve been working on the 69 S2 FHC for eight months getting ready for my local Jag Concours (today). I had hoped to be done a week ago so that I could drive it multiple times to work out any bugs. But, as it turned out last night at 11pm I had to call it as done as it could be for today. Here are a few things that had to be abandoned and not completed.
I could not get the speakers to work in the radio bracket and in the end mounted the bracket with the exterior speaker rings and mesh, but no radio or speakers. The new speakers purchased from Moss are too thick and touch the tunnel and won’t allow the bracket to sit back properly…to be resolved in due time.
The chrome strip and clips for the door sills are damn near impossible to get placed. Any helpful tips would be appreciated.
A fellow Jag-Lover forum member and soon to be new Texan @DonJ arrived in Texas just a few days ago and spent Friday afternoon assisting me in getting both door cards installed. Without his help and additional two hands I am certain they would not have been installed. Thanks Don!!
But as Rosanne Rosanadana used to say on Saturday Night Live back in the 1970’s “If its not one thing its another”. After arriving at the Concours today, it was determined during the Operational Verification step that my license plate light was not working. Using my 15 minutes, I opened it up, checked the new LED bulbs (it was working a week ago) and then checked all the fuses. While checking the fuses, I noted that the map light wasn’t on despite the drivers door being open. I was unable to get the license plate light working and took my 1 point deduction.
Then as I was driving home, I further noted that the interior light (in the luggage area) would not light up when I toggled the switch. Then a few seconds later I noticed that the fuel gauge and the water temp gauge were not registering anything. The oil pressure and battery gauge were working fine.
I’m not a guy that generally believes in coincidences and think all of these electrical problems must be linked. I’m too beat from standing in the sun all day to get my multi-meter out and head out to the garage to investigate, but by Monday I’ll be out there attempting to figure it out. Suggestions are welcome.
The consolation prize for the day was a First Place in the Driven Division for Series 2 E-Types, so it wasn’t all bad. But I lost 8 points for the red line tires, fortunately I have a set of Michelins on back order from Coker that will resolve that issue for the next time.
Congratulations for as far as you have gotten to date… Sounds like you a 99% of the way there, I’m a bit jealous as I likely have another 1-2 years… Great job !!
Given it was for the Driven class I’ve forwarded a question to the chief judge as I think it may have been an error, but I still placed first so I’m not complaining.
Hmmmmm a few months ago I purchased a new solid state voltage stabilizer from one of the usuals…given the history of current aftermarket parts, I’ll check it first. Although it shouldn’t have an impact on the license plate light, the map light, and the cargo light…right?
The one thing I neglected to mention that is concerning is that when I was turning the ignition to test the license plate light, there was a puff of white smoke from behind the drop down instrument panel. I just hope it was the voltage stabilizer biting the dust and nothing else.
Congratulations on the class win! And you’re absolutely correct that you should not have had a deduction for red walls in Driven division. From the Judges Rule Book, it seems pretty clear:
If you removed the fuses to check them when diagnosing the license plate light, I would suggest that this may have been the cause of the map light and interior light failure. They share Fuse#8. The fuse blocks get pretty tired, and I’ve found that moving a fuse around can often result in the difference between a good connection, and none.
I concur with @davidxk’s assessment. Over the years the fuse connections build up corrosion from just being old metal. Disconnect the battery, drop the instrument panel, remove a fuse at a time, and file the connections gently with emery cloth.
I then applied a small amount of conductive anti sieze to the connections, though I’m not sure what other members’ opinions are on this. (Worked for me!)
That is indeed the common component. And since the IVR is on the same circuit as the voltmeter and oil pressure gauge, the fuse is fine. The test light is useless for checking the IVR. You need to use a VOM and verify 10v. There’s a capacitor on S2 cars which is supposed to suppress radio noise from the IVR. It’s undocumented, but if it’s still present it would be right alongside the IVR and would likely be a blue cylinder. If it’s still there, check that it isn’t shorted. Check your harness, since you’ve been playing there, it’s an easy place to leave something loose to short out.
As for the lighting, begin by deinstalling and testing the LED bulbs against a good battery. LED bulbs are of frustratingly variable quality and fail as often as traditional bulbs, usually in unexpected and creative ways. If I’m not mistaken, both the interior and license lamps use festoon bulbs, so perhaps sourced from the same batch.The map light is in that odd holder, which I find sometimes goes non-conductive and will inevitably short at least once while troubleshooting.
