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The lock is basically to keep the wheels from interfering with the body.chassis, Kevin - at any steering angle and suspension travel/bump stops. Doesn’t really answer your question, but there is no readily available information of different lock or turning radius between the V12 and 6. Which doesn’t prove there isn’t…
Suspension geometry on independent suspension is always a compromise. Crudely; you can chose between camber or track width changes - camber angles induces gyroscopic effects, track changes influences toe. Uneven length wishbones helps to maintain constant camber, but unless infinitely long - track changes. And the shorter the wishbones the more the track changes. And of course, the wheels move up and down independently, as they also do with body lean in turns…
There is more to it than that, of course, and Jaguar knew all about this - and did their homework to mitigate effects. And the ‘mid-point’ settings aims to halve the total deviations from spec settings - but minor part changes has minimal effects within the total…
I still maintain that steering anomalies, geometry set-up being to specs, some slack somewhere would be suspect…
I’m thinking that if the lower wishbone is shorter on the V12, to compensate for the wider front hub, ( keeping the track the same) and the upper wishbones are the same, in order to keep the static camber correct, the upper wishbone pivot would need to be moved inboard via shims, the amount of the difference in width of the hub. That would mean the pivot of the arc of the upper wishbone would be different and therefore the camber change in bump and droop would be different. Surely, having spent so much time and effort getting the suspension correct for the 6, Jaguar would want the same for the 12. Therefore, in order to keep the track the same, the lower wishbone would need to be narrower and the upright modified accordingly to allow the ( identical) upper wishbones to pivot from the same point as the 6. Either that, or both upper and lower wishbones are the same between 6 and 12 and the change is confined to the upright. ( balljoint tapers moved outwards to pull the hub inwards. Thinking about it, that would make more sense, as the hub had to be changed anyway to allow for the brake change. Mind you, that then confirms my problem was just an alignment issue.
So just to make sure I’ve got it correct, my IFS from the 6 can be used just fine with the 12 except for the springs and perhaps the sway bar. Mine is currently 1 inch. I haven’t yet check the size the 12 used.
As for the front hubs, sounds like those only need to be changed is I want to upgrade to vented rotors.
Thanks for all the input. I’ll start a new thread on suggestions for the manual tranny.
Just a follow up…I hit the Buy button on EBay and purchased the engine. A pre HE from a 1976 car. Not sure what I’ll do with the BW M12 tranny it comes with, probably sell it. Of all car work, I enjoy engines the most so this will be a fun winter project to go through and have ready for Spring.
