Ron,
I have the Jaguar Parts Catalogues for my three Jaguars and have found them to be worth their weight in gold in solving simple mysteries like this. I have a USA market 1969 E-Type FHC that does not have a steering column lock. According to page C5 of my Spare Parts Catalogue for the Series II E-Type the part number for the Ignition Switch is C28522 and the Locking Barrel for the Ignition Switch is BD10610 for cars without a steering column lock. That should get you started.
I regularly purchase parts for my Jaguars from Moss Motors in California, SNG Barratt in New Hampshire, and Welsh Enterprises in Ohio as well an assortment of other suppliers. Usually one or more of those suppliers have what I need.
Ron,
I have the Jaguar Parts Catalogues for my three Jaguars and have found them to be worth their weight in gold in solving simple mysteries like this. I have a USA market 1969 E-Type FHC that does not have a steering column lock. According to page C5 of my Spare Parts Catalogue for the Series II E-Type the part number for the Ignition Switch is C28522 and the Locking Barrel for the Ignition Switch is BD10610 for cars without a steering column lock. That should get you started.
I regularly purchase parts for my Jaguars from Moss Motors in California, SNG Barratt in New Hampshire, and Welsh Enterprises in Ohio as well an assortment of other suppliers. Usually one or more of those suppliers have what I need.
How do you retain the locking barrel in the switch? The chrome nut just holds the unit to the dash panel. When I put the key in and pull it out, unless I am careful, the whole lock cylinder comes out?
Here is my original (burned up) switch from my '68 with non-locking switch on the steering column. By putting a punch in the hole on the switch body I was able to depress the plunger on the key tumbler and swap my original key tumbler into the new 34680 switch. The keys and tumbler in the photo are the ones that came with the 34680.
Yes my original key tumbler snapped in place in the new 34680. Here is photo looking inside the old burned up switch. If your plunger is working then perhaps the plastic piece inside that it snaps into is worn or you don’t have it aligned properly ? I don’t know if a '66 type switch works the same for this as my '68 does though.
Hi I have a 1969 4.2 FHC. that has had some ignition switch problems , I now have spare keys Can a member please tell me the correct wiring terminals to use , & Mr Monkey finger please put me down for the switch shroud PLEASE
In case it helps here is best photo I can get of the back of my 34680 switch with the wires hooked up but the rubber protective sleeve pulled back off of the switch body.
Hi Paul I managed to get some spare keys cut & free up the flasher & indicator switch , but the indicator cancelling device is made out of steel & looks nothing like the item posted by Monkey finger Any help gratefully appreciated Also the trip mileage reset cable was not fastened to the speedo ,(it is now) fiddly job but i discovered 2 wedge type lampholders floating around I put lamps/bulbs in but nothing seemed to happen I cant tell the wire colours (yet) any ideas?
T.I.A.
Keepsafe Ron.Series 2FHC
HI Again The bulbs i fitted are LCD & of course polarity concious I turned the bulbs round & discovered they flash with the indicators Very strange ? i cannot think of the possible use ? however i have an idea & that is to plug a sounder into each lampholder , they will remind me to manually cancel the indicators as the reset striker is a little undersized
Keepsafe Ron
Hi Paul I have still a few niggles with the electrics , 1969 4.2 F.H.C. but slowly getting there I may have damaged the voltage regulator ,but a replacement is on its way .
Meanwhile can you please tell me where & how to access the fuel level sender ,as the warning light is on permanently . I feel a new regulator will fix this but i like to have everything covered ?
Keepsafe Ron
Uncover the top of the fuel tank and you will see two covers attached by screws. The fuel level sender is the small round one with the wires attached. The larger oval cover is for the fuel pick up and will not need to be disturbed. The fuel sender includes both a switch for the low fuel light and the resistive element with attached float for the gauge. If yours is an original you should probably just replace the whole thing.
And until you replace the sending unit, if you just want the light to not be lit you can disconnect the green/white wire from the sending unit. Wrap electrical tape around the terminal end of the wire to insulate it. The gauge will continue to function with that wire disconnected.
Your absolutely correct most of the other electrical stuff has failed due to gunge etc but recovered after cleaning , Many thanks for your advice I am charging the (new battery) overnight to see if anything has changed & if not i will order 1 from SNG
Keepsafe Ron.
Hi Done that , everything is fine except for the instrument lights in the Tacho , (non existent)? however there are2 leads hanging down & after fitting bulbs i discovered they flash in time with the indicators , not a problem as i am going to fit buzzers to them to remind me to cancel indicators when only changing lanes /
Keepsafe Ron 1969 4.2 FHC.
