When we started this fix, we couldn’t find any info on this particular version of the ignition switch so I thought it would be helpful to post about it. The first photo is taken from the back of the assembly looking toward the driver.
As you can see, there is nothing visible holding the switch to the barrel housing. That is because there is a tiny screw on the top that is barely visible through the gap between the column and the dash. The second photo is looking forward through this gap.
The only way I could see to gain access to this screw was to unbolt and lower the steering column. There are two brackets. The one farthest from the driver has two bolts and two washers and retains a pedal return spring. The one nearest the driver has two bolts, two nuts and four washers. The third photo shows the column down and the switch removed from the barrel housing. I expect it to be a bear to get the column back together but couldn’t see another way to do it.
The fourth and final photo shows the new switch and illustrates the size of the retaining screw. The new switch has a hole in the right place but it is not threaded. I am considering an alternative way to retain the switch so it can be removed in future without lowering the column…perhaps a tie wrap.
Hopefully this will help the next poor soul who needs to replace this switch. In my next post I will show how we installed a relay to relieve the high current flowing in the switch and hopefully keep it from burning up again at the most inopportune time.
I had thought all 1970 ignition switches were the same?
On my 70 A/C car there was a shear pin/screw on the bottom easily removed.
Replacement switch was from a series III, guess I got lucky.
Glenn
There should be a shear bolt (with the head twisted off) holding the lock assembly to the steering column coming in form the bottom. What is left of the bolt is kind of a point. Use whatever you have to grind/file some sort of a slot/grab in it and screw it out. I drilled mine and used and easy out. The lock then comes off of the steering column. You can then access the switch retaining screw easily. I replaced my shear bolt with a slotted screw. LHD cars he bolt is on the bottom, RHD cars the bolt usually comes in from the back.
I understand that the boot is missing on a lot of cars. The fact that it is missing is probably indicative of the switch being serviced in the past. The boot is P/N C.26851 if you can find one. Last I heard it has been NLA for quite some time.
There were two versions of the switch. One had a phenolic back, such as yours and the other was a plastic molded back. I understand that the phenolic variety holds up better. In any event the functionality and pin numbering of the two is the same even though the pin layout is different. The switch for the S3 will fit but and works the same but the wires are riveted onto the switch and will have to be spliced in to work with a S2.
On some Jags, the shear bolt is flush & recessed, meaning a slot cannot easily be cut.
I used a prick punch to work the smooth face of the screw around
This is good information. I wonder if the Series 3 switch would be more robust. My wires are pretty short from having had their connectors replaced more than once so splicing might actually be better. Also, the high resistance point wouldn’t be right at the switch adding to the heat there.
It has been years since I made the conversion, so details a little fuzzy. I replaced my series II ignition switch with one from a series III. Switch came with wires and rear section that I removed and replaced with a new series II version. This is not necessary If you know what wires go where? Somewhere in the archives this conversion is explained and part #s given.
Glenn
The lights are hard wired to the battery. The radiator fans have their own relay operated by the Otter switch. However, the accessories and ignition do run through the ignition switch. I measured 8 amps on the wire that comes into the switch from the battery with the ignition on but not running. I am still working on fitting a relay to relieve that. I wasn’t happy with my first installation so am reworking it. More to follow on that topic.
DHY, Ive had my series 2 1970 for over 30 years.
The shear screw would have saved you alot of headache but…
The stock set up is terrible, your saving grace are two things…
Yes a series 3 will work and if NOS it will have a pigtail to connect to your harnes without wiggling and coming off.
The fuel pump wire is connected to the key as well.
The problem is 1. The wires just fall off and two theres a current bar in the back of the switch which run constant current, MELTING THE SWITCH AND THE CIRCUIT over time.
THE BEST SOLUTION …Get a standard key switch at any auto parts even at the hardware store for a tractor.Find a SERIES 1 1/2 Ignition plate then remove the terrible locking barrel thats a saftey hazzard when you stall and it locks up!
pm your cell Ill explain. Once I converted, I put 100,000 miles on my 70 without a problem and it looks bone stock.
Just my two cents.
gtjoey1314
My original ignition switch just did not last very long, only got just 40+ years out of it. It was also my daily driver for 7 years. It never got hot, just wore out and fell apart. The new one should be my last and last longer than the time we will be allowed to drive these ICE cars on the roads of California.
May need an attitude adjustment?
Glenn
well yes, they do wear out mechanically as well, and its a good thing you can easily purchase a replacement for an E-type.
I wouldnt worry about a few amps, but would relay out the heater/blower fan if its thru the ignition switch, when they start to fail, they pull big amps on startup
I’m so glad I found this thread. I’ve been messing around with a new boot for my switch. Working on it from under the dash is painful. I also noticed that the plastic insulator on one of the female terminals looks a bit melted - not a good sign. One of the terminals on the back of the switch is bent. It’s time to remove it and clean it up or replace it. I might add a relay too.
I wasn’t sure if that sheared bolt was a bolt or a rivet. I’ll try to get it out with an easy out. SNG has a photo of the shear bolt used on the series III. I can’t imagine putting one of those back in.
Before using an ez out take a very small sharp chisel and tap the stud in a counter clockwise direction. It will back out unless corroded. That is what I did with my series 2 xj6 switch which appears to be the same fastening system.
I used an easy out and just drilling in reverse backed out that little bolt. But I ran into a new snag. I have factory AC. The air duct apparatus prevents the switch mechanism from sliding all the way out. I guess I’ll need to drop the steering column down to clear it.